COMPENDIOUS HISTORY 



OF THE NORTHERN PART OF THE PROVINCE OF 



NEW BRUNSWICK, 



iND OF THE 



DISTRICT OF GASPE, 



IN 



LOWER CANADA. 



BIT ROBERT COONEir. 



The lowest genius may afford some light, 
Or give a hint that had escaped your Bight. 



HALIFAX, N. S. 

PRINTED BY JOSEPH HOWE, 

183 2, 



no^-z 






A 







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TO 
JOSEPH CUNARD, Es*. 

ONE OF THE MEMBERS OF THE LEGISLATIVE ASSEMBLY 
OF 

NEW BRUNSWICK. 

Sib, 

Despising the expression of that opinion, which, possibly, 
may attempt to torture the unsophisticated language of sincere, 
esteem, into the feigned or servile compliment of flattery, to you, 
do I frankly confess, that the opportunity which the compila- 
tion of this little work affords me, unreservedly to acknowledge 
my obligations to your friendship, is a delightful recompense 
for whatever of care, anxiety, or fatigue, the execution of the 
task has involved. When circumstances, familiar to all the 
respectable inhabitants of Miramichi, interrupted my profes- 
sional studies, through your disinterested sympathies, did a 
munificent Providence kindly bestow an affectionate, and an 
unshrinking friend. Therefore, to you, Sir, do 1 now dedi- 
cate this unpretending effort, and poor though the offering be, 
rest assured, that in the presentation of it, far loftier motives 
influence me, than any private considerations would suggest. 



The faithful discharge of the important duties of a Legi- 
slator, has obtained for you the merited approbation of a dis- 
cerning constituency; — the registered decisions of the Bench, 
eloquently vindicate your integrity as a magistrate ; — and the 
magnanimity that uniformly pervades your mercantile pursuits, 
has invested your professional reputation with the distinguish- 
ing traits of liberality and enterprize. These, Sir, are the pri- 
mary reasons that more immediately influence me, while to the 
series of facts they enumerate, 1 have now the honor to add 
another. 

By subscribing myself, 

Your obliged, and 

Grateful Servant, 

ROBERT COONEY. 
Halifax, May, 1832. 



CONTENTS. 

Page. 

Introduction, --«-... 1 

General Description, 14 

County of Northumberland, - - 25 

County of Kent, - 127 

County of Gloucester, - 161 

Natural History, ----- 227 

Resources, - .... 277 

District of Gaspe, - 281 



[It affords me unqualified pleasure to state, that I have, during my resi- 
dence in Halifax, enjoyed an uninterrupted access to the Town Library, 
the Commercial Reading Room, the Mechanics' Institute, and the other Lite- 
rary and Scientific Associations, which so eminently distinguish this enlight- 
ened metropolis ; and therefore, do I now, to the respective Directors and 
Managers of these Societies, unfeignedly tender my assurances of regard 

and esteem.] 

ft. C 



INTRODUCTION. 



Although we protest against the unwarrantable vani- 
ty, that, would betray us into the institution of a com- 
parison between New Brunswick and other Colonies 
of Great Britain ; we feel satisfied that no one will im- 
peach our consistency, if we briefly allude, to the rise 
and progress of the maritime strength and commercial 
prosperity of the latter ; thence modestly hinting, that 
her Colonies have eminently contributed to both. 

Considerations of this kind, though perhaps destitute 
of any intrinsic utility, are on this occasion recommend- 
ed by a sort of natural pertinency, inasmuch as they 
may exhibit the general importance of Colonial posses- 
sions ; and embody an expression of the sentiments, as 
well as an avowal of the principles, cherished by the 
inhabitants of this Province in particular. 

1 



2 INTRODUCTION. 

I am, moreover, induced to make these preliminary 
remarks, from a view of the injustice of some late mea- 
sures of Colonial policy ; as well as from a dignified 
conception of our own co-relative situation, as the sub- 
jects of a country, of which we are a constituent part ; 
under whose laws we live ; by whom we are protected ; 
of whose greatness we participate ; and to whose insti- 
tutions we are attached. 

Towards the close of the 15th century, Venice and 
Genoa were the only great commercial powers in Eu- 
rope. Between these two nations a similarity of pur- 
suit inspired mutual rivalship ; but in trade, Venice 
maintained the pre-eminence. She engrossed the whole 
commerce of India, then carried on through the inte- 
rior of Asia, or by way of Egypt and the Red Sea. 
America, comprising the great western Continent, and 
including almost innumerable fertile Islands, was then 
a Terra Incognita^ or an unknown land. 

Under these circumstances, the trade of England was 
very limited ; we did little more than wander through 
the Mediterranean, or crawl along the coast of Africa. 
This was the extent of our navigation ; and the few 
ships employed therein, were, as well as our Naval 
stores, imported. We purchased all manufactured me- 
tals from Germany ; we were dependant on Portugal 
for Sugar ; we bought American produce from Spain ; 
and we had to pay the Venetians andj Genoese for the 
commodities of India, 



INTRODUCTION. 3 

At this time, the revenue of England did not exceed 
£36.000 a year. Such was the state of our trade, and 
of our finance, when Elizabeth ascended the Throne. 

The cautious policy of Henry VII. had precluded us 
from the advantages of Columbus's service ; but the li- 
berality of his grand-daughter admitted us to a partici- 
pation of them. The intrepid navigator had, by pe- 
netrating beyond the imaginary precincts of the globe, 
enlarged the circumference of visible creation. At his 
touch the western boundary receded ; and then Em- 
pires and Kingdoms issued from the sea, while the mist 
that overshadowed it resolved itself into a world. 
These discoveries inflamed the zeal of the queen, and 
roused the energies of the nation ; and having once in- 
haled the spirit of enterprise, we enlisted science for our 
guide — pursued territory into its last retreat ; and in 
the recesses of obscurity, established new dominions. 

In prosecuting her research, England neither acknow- 
ledged an obstacle, nor recognized a difficulty. She 
neither calculated the danger, nor measured the dis- 
tance ; her discernment taught her the value of com- 
merce, and her insular situation convinced her of the 
necessity of its cultivation. She saw other powers en- 
riched by its possession, -and she determined to rival 
them ; the decree went forth, and the monopoly of the 
south was destroyed forever. 

Then did the Genoese navy shrink into a few gal- 
lies ; then did commerce slumber on the bosom of the 



4 INTRODUCTION 

Adriatic ; and then did the produce of Brazil become a 
drug on the Tagus. 

What England acquired by discovery, she retained 
by liberal policy. Her new subjects learned civiliza- 
tion from her intercourse, and clemency from he ex - 
ample. Her Colonies are trophies, not spoils ; they 
were acquired by research, not obtained by plunder; 
and they have been preserved by conciliation, not held 
by massacre, as the Spaniards retained Mexico and Pe- 
ru ; and the Dutch Amboyna, and Surinam. 

The acquisitional character of our Colonies, as well 
as the capabilities they developed, frequently excited 
the envy of our maritime rivals, who in some instances 
by sinister policy, in others by open violence, endea- 
voured to dissolve the amiable connexion. Their jea- 
lousy, however, only increased our influence, and im- 
paired their strength, for it always involved them in a 
war that weakened them in its progress, and humbled 
them at its close. 

At length our own impolicy, in no inconsiderable de- 
gree, accomplished what neither the subtlety, nor the 
power of our enemies could effect. A cabinet of Imbe- 
ciles, striving to extend the prerogatives of the crown, 
produced by their ultraism a general discontent through- 
out the New England Colonies. France surveyed the 
progress of the eruption with pleasure ; she thought of 
Quebec and Louisburg ; and then regulated her inter- 
ference as insubordination advanced. Encouraged by 



INTRODUCTION. 5 

the fleets and armies of so great an ally, the Americans 
succeeded, and the thirteen Provinces became a Re- 
public. 

The French people, groaning under a most oppressive 
despotism, viewed the struggle with intense anxiety ; 
every victory gained by the revolted colonists gratified 
and reproached them ; and the issue of the contest in- 
spired them with emulation. The besotted Court of 
Versailles had not sufficient penetration to perceive,that 
the revolutionary infection had beeu brought home. 
Affluence had closed their ears against the cries of dis- 
tress ; bloated with pride, remonstrance could not reach 
their vanity ; debauched by luxury, they measured a 
nation's energy by the scale of their own effeminacy ; 
and blinded by dissipation, they were unable to read 
an admonition in symptoms. The good natured but 
passive Louis reclined upon his Throne, unconscious 
of the bloody grave that was yawning at his feet. 

What the French King endeavoured to establish in 
America, that was he destined to endure at home.— 
When his troops returned from the rehearsal, they 
were prepared for the performance ; they had seen li- 
berty meretriciously drest in the camp of Washington, 
and allured by her appearance, they became enamour- 
ed of her person. Soldiers and citizens leagued against 
the government ; and the clubs inflaming their violence, 
murder became a science in France, and every ruffian a 
professor of it. The sceptre dropped from the palsied 
hand of the Monarch ; his throne crumbled under him ; 



6 INTRODUCTION. 

his crown fell into the kennel ; his head rolled on a scaf- 
fold ; and his kingdom became the booty of his execu- 
tioners. 

A violent moral disorganization, impressed on the 
French character, a distortion the most unnatural and 
disgusting. Every vice was privileged, and every vir- 
tue outlawed; every tie was broken, and every connexi- 
on severed. Worth inspired hatred ; villany was a 
distinction ; religion a reproach ; infidelity an honor ; 
loyalty a crime ; and treason a boast. The revolution 
lost all its efficacy in its violence, nor did any thing dis- 
tinguish it but the infamy that disgraced it ; for the 
people who had waded through blood to dethrone a 
legitimate King, basely submitted to the imperial sway 
of a needy adventurer. 

England deplored the miseries of her rival, and gene- 
rously determined to alleviate them. She saw with 
horror the fearful re-action of Louis's mistaken policy, 
and she condemned the spirit, as well as the extent of 
the reprisal. She had been deprived of a valuable co- 
lony, partly by the intervention of the monarch, whom 
she now saw fall under the recuperation of his own 
principles, but the remembrance of her loss was lost 
in her sympathy. 

To rescue France from total oblivion ; to save her 
from herself ; and to preserve Europe from anarchy, 
confusion, and civil war, England drew her sword 
against the regicides. Such were the motives that un- 



INTRODUCTION. 7 

locked her treasury, and armed her trodps. Her voice 
roused the potentates of Europe, and called a moral 
earthquake into being ; and the conflict thus excited by 
the chivalry of her spirit, was afterwards sustained by 
the redundancy of her energies. She encouraged the 
timid, subsidized the needy, and maintained the tran- 
quility of the neutral states. Whenever her allies were 
terrified into vacillation, her constancy reproved them ; 
and when they were cajoled into indecision, her un- 
flinching bravery shamed them into resolution. King- 
doms disappeared, but she remained immoveable ; and 
when Kings became paupers, and beggars reigned, she 
learned wisdom from the vicissitude, and acquired 
strength by its application. 

Napoleon aspired to universal dominion, and the wi- 
thering curse of his cupidity descended upon every 
thing, and blighted all it touched. ' Like the reeds 
smitten by the storm, Legitimate Monarchy, and every 
other venerable Institute, fell to the ground ; and from 
their ruins rose a rabble of Mushroom Kings, and Mili- 
tary Nobles. Crowns degenerated into camp furniture ; 
Marshals' batons were exchanged for sceptres ; the vo- 
cabulary of honors was ransacked for the creation of 
new titles ; and every River and Village was enlarged 
into a Dutchy, or manufactured into a Principality. In 
short, the political axis of the continent was broken ; 
and the whole immense structure of Empires, King- 
doms, and Republics, lay in dismembered and shapeless 
masses at the feet of the usurper, 



5 INTRODUCTION. 

Such, in 1009 and 1810, was the disorganized state 
of Europe. 

In the midst of this terrific commotion England 6tood 
erect ; wrapt up in her own impregnability, the storm 
could not affect her ; and therefore, while others trem- 
bled in its blast, she smiled at its fury. Never did the 
" Empress Island" appear so magnificently grand ; — 
she stood by herself, and there was a peculiar splendor 
in the loneliness of her glory. 

i 
Occupying such an exalted position, a less resolute 

nation would have retired from the conflict ; but her 
strength being unimpaired, and her ends unaccomplish- 
ed ; she determined to perfect the consummation she 
had proposed.. Again was her voice heard mingling 
with the roar of the hurricane ; and again did it re-ani- 
mate the dispirited Sovereigns of Europe. They 
thronged round her standard ; and she led them to vic- 
tory and to peace. The cause of humanity prospered, 
and Buonaparte fell with a precipitancy, equal to the 
rapidity of his flight. The task was accomplished, and 
the magnitude of the undertaking, essentially general-' 
ized the benefits of its success. 

The integrity of Egypt was secured, and the inde- 
pendence of Spain maintained. Russia and Prussia 
were saved from annihilation ; Austria and the Penin- 
sula were preserved from a similar fate ; the Roman 
Pontiff was released from prison ; the vassals of the 
Rhine were emancipated ; and- France was restored to 



INTRODUCTION. 9 

her original dignity. Such were the prizes England 
won by her valor, such were the gifts her munificence 
bestowed. 



From these remarks the question arising is, how did 
Great Britain accomplish all this ? What enabled her 
to exercise such astonishing influence — to put forth such 
overwhelming powers ? I answer, her Colonies. They 
created the commerce that filled her Treasury, and cra- 
dled the Navy that fought her battles. The Colonies, 
from being the offspring of her research, became the 
children of her solicitude. They had extended her 
territory into every clime ; and from this increase of 
dominion, it became expedient to erect a force for its 
protection. Hence sprung a Navy, irresistable in pow- 
er, and matchless an bravery ; hence arose that invin- 
cible strength, which ever since its organization, has 
enabled a small Island to awe the whole world, and 
to maintain analmost exclusive possession of the ocean. 
But the Colonies not only rocked the cradle of our Na- 
vy, but they even cherished it into adolescence. The 
long voyages to those newly discovered regions, and 
the advantages arising from an intercourse with them, 
created a commercial marine, that has since sustained 
the Navy, arid in war frequently enabled it, not only 
to protect our dependencies, but even to extend them. 

In all ages, from the day we defeated the Spanish Ar- 
mada, until we destroyed the Turkish fleet at Navari- 

no, the Navy has been the right arm of our strength. 

2 



10 INTRODUCTION. 

and the chief pillar of our greatness ; but never did its 
glory shine so brilliantly, or its power appear so strik- 
ingly, as during the last war. Our pendants quivered 
in every atmosphere, and by our ships was the 
ocean swept. Whatever wind fanned the British En- 
sign, honor and renown were its attendants ; and what- 
ever sea our vessels ploughed, victory followed in their 
wake, and wrote the history of their achievements, 
Whenever vanity betrayed the enemy into action, de- 
feat invariably humbled his vanity ; and when a re- 
petition of losses taught him prudence, we imprisoned 
him on his stations, until his ships rotted in the har- 
bours of Bologne and Brest. 

Without foreign possessions, Great Britain never 
could have arrived, in the scale of nations, to a higher 
rank, than that of a second or third rate power. Coop- 
ed up within a very moderate extent, and not particu- 
larly distinguished, either for the rarity or richness of 
her natural productions, the utmost stretch of her com- 
merce, would have been but a barter with her opulent 
neighbors ; or at best, a dearly bought, but limited and 
precarious intercourse with their dependencies. Nor is 
it altogether beyond the range of possibility, that she 
might not have been, at this very day, a Colony her- 
self. Without extraneous resources she would have 
had no commerce, and wanting that, she would have 
had neither her wealth nor her Navy. 

When we think of the injustice of some men, and 
the ambition of others ; when we reflect upon the con- 



INTRODUCTION. 11 

duct and politics of Louis XIV. and Charles XII. Napo- 
leon, and other inordinate spirits, we are almost sus- 
tained in saying, that instead of being what she now is, 
the Emporium of the world, and the Mistress of the Na- 
tions, England might have been, at this very day, but 
a wretched Province, either basely hugging her chains, 
or gallantly striving to break them. 

It should ever be remembered, that to the Colonies 
do we owe much of our present greatness. Our inter- 
nal resources had been developed to their utmost capa- 
city ; they had been stretched almost to cracking ; and 
hence there hardly remained a possibility of either ex- 
tending our trade, or increasing our strength. There 
appeared no reasonable grounds to suppose, that we 
should ever become, either a very rich, or a very pow- 
erful nation ; indeed, but the moment before our first 
discoveries were made, our whole maritime force, so 
extravagantly praised by Sir Edward Coke, consisted of 
only thirty-three ships, indifferently equipped. Such, 
about three hundred years ago, was the boasted navy of 
Great Britain, and such, in all probability, would it still 
be, if she had not acquired Colonies. 

But suddenly new worlds leapt into life, and stood be- 
fore us. Then did the pale and flickering light of our 
present glory, sparkle through the broken vapours of 
the west ; then, and not till then, did the wealth and 
power of England commence. The genius of com_ 
merce, at once exciting and rewarding the enterprize 
of the nation, flung the proceeds of its zeal into her lap, 



12 INTRODUCTION. 

and then, every wave that washed her cliffs, came load- 
ed with wealth ; and every wind that blew, wafted tri- 
bute to her shore. 

In a short time so rapidly did our shipping multiply, 
that the whole carrying trade of Europe fell into our 
hands ; and this great and enriching privilege, not only 
convinced us of the necessity of securing it, but also 
enabled us to erect the force requisite for so desirable 
an end. To be more explicit : that we might engross 
the golden current that flowed upon us, it became ab- 
solutely necessary to increase our Navy, a measure, 
which in half a century after its adoption, enabled us to 
dictate Navigation Laws, that not only controuled the 
sea, but encouraged, nay rendered unavoidably neces- 
sary, the regular and constant increase of both our 
Trade and Shipping. 

Nothing can more strongly prove the importance of 
Colonies, if proof were necessary, than the astounding 
rise and progress of Great Britain. 

Here we see a small Island, that had been the alter- 
nate prey of every Northern incursion ; that was for- 
merly plundered by the Picts, harrassed by the Danes, 
and conquered by the Romans, surpassing in power, 
wealth and greatness, even Imperial Rome itself. Here 
we behold a mere speck in the Channel, enlarged into 
a colossal dominion, that has oceans for its highways — 
kingdoms for its outposts, and whose boundaries ex- 
tend to every quarter of the globe. Here we admire 



INTRODUCTION- 13 

an enterprising and spirited People, alike familiar with 
the tropics and the poles, and equally intimate with 
the frozen regions of the North, and the sultry latitudes 
of the South, springing from the loins of a few Islanders. 
Here we see a great and mighty government, embrac- 
ing within its rule every diversity of climate, of creed, 
and of complexion, growing out of one solitary spot, 
and blended into an harmonious whole, by the Consti- 
tution that overarches and protects it. 

Is there an Englishman, alive to one virtuous feeling, 
illumined by one ray of patriotism, whose heart does 
not glow with gratitude, and swell with triumph, when 
he surveys the career, and contemplates the character 
of his nation. Europe owes its independence to her 
magnanimity ; the fervor of her clemency melted the 
chains of the African ; Christendom has been enlarged 
by her piety ; her auspices have created new Worlds 
in the South ; and liberty of conscience has been re- 
born from her Code. In a word, honorable has been 
her course, and exalted is her position. Through centu- 
turies of Fame has she travelled ; and now she stands 
upon a column of her own architecture, around whose 
pedestal is written the history of its erection. 

We are Englishmen : some of us by birth ; others by 
lineage ; all of us in principles ; and the avowal is our 
pride— the connexion our glory. 



CHAPTER I. 



First establishment of the Province of New Brunswick — its si- 
tuation and general description. 

The Province of New Brunswick formerly constituted 
a part of Nova Scotia, the first European settlement on 
the Continent of North America. The early history of 
that Province, involves a serried alternation of proprie- 
torship between the French and English ;— the former 
claiming it by priority of possession, the latter by disco- 
very. 

The first grant of land in it was given by King James 
the First, in 1621, to his Secretary Sir William Alex- 
ander, who called it Nova Scotia, or New Scotland. It 
was then considered by the English, as a part of Ca- 
bot's discovery of Terra JVbua ; but the first settlers, 
however, were French emigrants, who arrived hither 



GENERAL DESCRIPTION. 15 

in 1604, with, and under the auspices of one Monsieur 
De Monts, who called the country Acadia, or New 
France. 

Sir William being unable to colonize his grant, sold 
it to Claude De La Tour, a French nobleman ; and the 
treaty of St. Germain's, ratified in 1632, ceding Acadia 
to France, the French became possessors of it by both 
convention and purchase. 

In the year 1654, it reverted to the English ; in 1667 
it was again ceded to the French, by the treaty of Bre- 
da ; but in consequence of their violation of the com- 
pact, it was retaken by Sir William Phipps, iv 1690. 

The British remained sole masters of Acadia, until 
1697, when, by a treaty made at Ryswick, in Holland, 
during the reign of William the Third, it was once 
more restored to the French, By this treaty, the com- 
fort of the exiled family of the Stuarts, was liberally 
consulted ; for it was particularly stipulated, that the 
English King should pay an annual pension of 50,000k 
to Queen Mary D'Este. 

Scarcely had King James breathed his last at Saint 
Germain's, when Louis the Fourteenth acknowledged 
the claims of the Chevalier de St. George. This un- 
expected declaration created a temporary alarm ; and 
the almost sudden death of King William, considerably 
increased the apprehensions of the people. Queen 
Anne, however, having ascended the Throne without 



16 GENERAL DESCRIPTION. 

any interruption, she commenced her reign by a spi- 
rited declaration of war against France. 

During this struggle, which lasted nearly ten years, 
her Majesty's arms were remarkably successful, both 
by sea and land ; and towards the close of the war, to 
such a degraded and humiliating state was the French 
King reduced, by the repeated defeats he sustained from 
the Duke of Marlborough, and Prince Eugene, that he 
was obliged to sue for peace in the most abject manner . 

Negociations were accordingly opened at Utrecht, in 
the year 1712, and by a definitive treaty made at the 
same place, in the following year, Nova Scotia was 
restored to Great Britain, in whose possession it has re- 
mained ever since. 

The French Government, never very remarkable for 
their scrupulous observance of treaties, were not long 
in finding a pretext for evading the " Definitive Treaty 1 '' 
of Utrecht. Ere the ink wa? dry with which this cove- 
nant was written, they again resorted to that unmanly 
and petty warfare, by which they had so often disturbed 
the tranquility of the New Colony. Hostilities were 
commenced ; and along with several rich prizes, made 
by Admiral Rowley, in the Mediterranean, and Com- 
modore Barnett, in the East Indies, the important Is- 
land of Cape Breton, fell into our hands. 

Had we retained our last acquisition, we would have 
held the key of the whole Gulf of St. Lawrence, which 






OF NEW BRUNSWICK. 17 

would have given us exclusive possession of the fisheries 
of North America. This signal advantage, however, 
then worth two millions annually, we foolishly resign- 
ed by a disgraceful peace made at Aix la Chapelle, in 
1745. 

The growing prosperity ofJSova Scotia, increasing the 
jealousy of the French, they determined to provoke us 
to another war ; vainly imagining, that as our hands 
were tolerably well occupied by our affairs in India, 
and the meditated invasion of the Chevalier, they 
would be able to filch our North American possessions 
from us. 

To accomplish this end, they adopted the most dis- 
honorable means ; they openly intruded within the 
limits of Nova Scotia ; erected fortifications in the very 
heart of the Province ; endeavoured to corrupt the neu- 
trals ; and excited the hostility of the Indians against 
the Settlers. They, moreover, extended a chain of 
forts, connecting their settlements on the Mississippi, 
with their possessions in Canada ; and along the great 
Lakes of Erie and Ontario. They also penetrated from 
the Banks of the Saint Lawrence, across Lake Cham- 
plain, entered the territory of New York, and built the 
fort of Crown Point. Extending their insolent and 
dangerous encroachments, they also annoyed our set- 
tlements on the Ohio, and arrested, and sent prisoners 
to France, some English residents of that river. 

These and many other similar atrocities did Great 

3 



18 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

Britain bear with exemplary patience, until the extent 
and wantoness of the insults she endured were con- 
demned by every Cabinet in Europe. At length war 
was declared ; and an expedition, commanded by Ad- 
miral Boscawen, sailed from Plymouth, for the banks 
of Newfoundland, while another, under the direction of 
M. Bois de la Moth, proceeded from Brest for the same 
destination. A general engagement was prevented by 
the thick fogs usually prevalent on this coast ; but the 
intercepting part of the British squadron gave the first 
decisive blow, by capturing two French ships, the M- 
cide, of 64 guns, and the Lys, of f>2 guns. 

This earnest of future success, was rapidly followed 
by the conquest of Cape Breton ; of the Canadas ; of 
Saint John's Island ; and the final extirpation of the 
French power in America. 

These events occurred in the years 1758 and 1759 ; 
until when, it may be affirmed, Great Britain never had 
peaceable possession of the present Province of New- 
Brunswick. 

In the year 1785 the present limits of New-Brunswick 
were divided from Nova Scotia, and erected into a sepa- 
rate Province, by a special constitutional charter, the 
administration of which, was confided Co Colonel Carle- 
ton. In the autumn of this year, the first General Elec- 
tion of representatives took place : and in the January 
following, the first Legislative Assembly was held at St. 
John. 



OF NEW BRUNSWICK. 19 

Shortly after his appointment, Governor Carleton 
judiciously selected the present scite of Fredericton, for 
the seat of Government ; and the most unequivocal 
proof of the propriety of this choice is, that it has ever 
since been, and is very likely to continue to be, our 
metropolis. 

It is unnecessary here to re-capitulate the privations 
endured, and the difficulties surmounted by the first 
settlers ; these are daily occurrences with the founders 
of a country, and therefore, in the present instance, there 
was no singularity. If their sufferings were great, so 
were their merits ; if they forfeited their property, it 
was to preserve their principles ; if they sacrificed every 
consideration to their duty, the value of the offering was 
an amiable proof of their sincerity. Of sorrow and suf- 
fering they had sufficient ; but of consolation and re- 
compence they were not destitute. If they were dis- 
franchised by the Republicans, the proscription was 
their honour ; if they were driven from home to seek 
a refuge in the wilderness, they carried with them the 
virtue they inherited from their ancestors. The pre- 
cious pearl of political integrity was ;theirs ; and theirs 
also, was the exalted dignity of Citizenship to an English 
King. 

Frederieton, that can now boast of its Palace, its 
University, Courts of Justice, Public Halls, Legislative 
Chambers, spacious Barracks, and various Churches, 
was then composed of a few irregularly built huts ; and 
Saint John, now a rich commercial town, governed by 



20 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

municipal authority, endowed with corporate privileges, 
and containing 10,000 inhabitants, was, at the same 
period, of similar extent. 

After having governed the Province with prudence, 
benignity, and justice, for nearly twenty years ; after 
having watched over it in childhood, and cherished it 
into adolescence ; after having seen it rise from a wil- 
derness into an important Colony; — after having en- 
deared himself to the people, as their Father — their 
Friend — their All ; Governor Carleton was, in 1803, 
removed to England, where he still continued to hold 
his situation until his death. Were I allowed to eulogise 
the dead, I would quote the Latin interrogatory of the 
Poet, " Si quoins monumentum circumspice ie ?" If you 
want a memorial of Carleton, look all round you. 

From the removal of Colonel Carleton until his death, 
the government of the Province was administered by 
the following persons, under the style and title of Presi- 
dents : — G. G. Ludlow, Esq. Edward Winslow, Esq. Ma- 
jor General Hunter, Lieutenant Colonel Johnstone, Major 
General Balfour, Major General Smyth, Major General Sau- 
marez, and Lieutenant Colonel Hailes. Immediately after 
the above event, which happened, I believe, in 1816, 
Major General George Stracey Smith, was appointed 
Governor, and he dying in March, 1823, the administra- 
tion devolved upon WardChipman, Esq., who discharg- 
ed it until the February following, when it was assumed 
by John Murray Bliss, Esq. During the Presidency of 
this gentleman, Major General Sir Howard Douglas re* 



OF NEW BRUNSWICK. 21 

ceived the appointment. His Exeellency being called 
home to England, the Government descended to Wil- 
liam Black, Esq. who administered it until the appoint- 
ment of Sir Archibald Campbell, the present Represen- 
tative of His Majesty in this Colony. 

New Brunswickis situated between the 45th and 40th 
degrees of North latitude ; and between the 64th and 
6Sth degree of West longitude. It is above 200 miles 
in length and 180 in breadth, and contains about 22, 
000 square miles. It is bounded as follows : — on the 
North by the River St. Lawrence, and Canada ; on the 
South and South-east by the Bay of Fundy and Nova- 
Scotia ; on the East by the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and 
B&ie Verte ;and on the West by the State of Maine. It 
is divided into ten Counties, viz. Saint John, Westmore- 
land 3 King's, Queen's, Charlotte, York, Sunbury, Nor- 
thumberland, Kent and Gloucester. * The respective re- 
presentation of these Counties, in the Provincial Assem- 
bly is thus : — 



COUNTIES. 


MEMBERS. 


Saint John 


4 


Westmoreland 


4 


King's 


2 


Queen's 


2 


Charlotte 


4 


York 


4 


Sunbury 


t 


Northumberland 


2 


Kent 


I 


Gloucester 


1 


City of Saint John 


2 


Total number 


28. 



22 GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

The Province is well watered by several magnificent 
Rivers, and an almost countless number of tributary- 
streams; and these intersecting the country vicinally, 
lay open its inmost recesses, irrigate the soil, and fa- 
cilitate the transfer of it productions and manufactures 
to the sea board. It also abounds with Lakes, Springs 
and Rivulets, so that there are but few places that do 
not enjoy the advantages of water communication. 

The appearance of the country along the Bay of Fxm- 
dy, is rather unpromising. The coast is rugged and 
broken ; in some places it is closely serrated with fis- 
sures ; in others irregularly scolloped by large cavities, 
and in general seems to have suffered considerably by 
erosion. The Gulf shore is low and sandy, covered with 
a stunted growth, and skirted with extensive marshes, 
large deep mosses, and long sand beaches, formed by 
the conflicting currents of the Gulf, and the different 
Rivers that pierce the shore. 

The whole line of sea board, as well as the different 
Harbours, Bays and Inlets, that indent it, contain a rich 
and inexhaustible Fishery, which, if judiciously encou- 
raged by conservative laws, would be of the most signal 
advantage to Great Britain. In the interior, the soil is 
generally good ; and in some places the land is very 
high and precipitate, and impressed with magnificent 
features of primitive formation ; in others, it swells into 
an easy and gentle acclivity ; while in several districts 
it is of a very monotonous character. As but a small 
part of this extensive Province is under cultivation, the 



OF NEW BRUNSWICK. 23 

natural resources of the interior are very imperfectly- 
known. The intrusion, however, of some of them in 
different parts of the country, may afford us a tolerably 
correct idea of their character and extent. A good des- 
cription of Coal, Granite, Slate, Freestone, and Argillace- 
ous earths, are very abundant ; and specimens of Lime 
Stone, Iron, Lead and Copper Ores, have obtruded upon us. 

Some of the Rivers are very rapid, and flow over cal- 
careous formations ; others run over soft muddy bot- 
toms ; and a few creep lazily over sandy beds into the 
different places whence they discharge. Most of these 
Rivers are interspersed with large fertile Islands, formed 
by the force of the aqueous agent removing portions of 
the soil from one place, and depositing them in another. 
Their banks are generally fringed with rich alluvial 
tracts produced by the same cause ; and some of them 
pursue a course exceedingly irregular and fantastic, in 
consequence of the interruptions they receive from pre- 
cipitate cascades, and a violent collision, between impe- 
tuous freshets and strong lateral resistances. 

All the principal Rivers are intimately connected with 
each other, either by small streams or short portages. 
Thus, the Restigouche approximates to the Saint John, 
by an eight mile portage leading to the Grand River. 
The Miramichi is connected with the Nipisiquit by a 
still shorter route ; and the latter approaches the Res- 
tigouche by an Indian road leading to the Upsalquitch. 
The Saint John is also linked with the Miramichi and 
the Nipisiquit, by the Lakes that supply the main and 



24 GENERAL DESCRIPTION. 

little Tobique, and the Miramichi mingles with the Hi- 
chibucto by two or three of its tributaries, while the 
latter approaches the Saint John, by Salmon River, 
along the Grand Lake, and thence down the Jemseg.— 
The same route inverted leads from the Saint John to 
the Miramichi, by a portage connecting Salmon River 
with the Etienne. There is also a route from the Ma- 
da waska to the Bay des Chaleurs ; and the Chicktacook 
falls into the Saint John near the Presque Isle, and runs 
by a short vista upon a branch of the Miramichi, while 
the Buctouch rises near the New Canaan, a River dis- 
charging into the Washademoak Lake, which empties 
itself about 30 miles above the city. 

It may here be observed, that nearly all the Rivers in 
this Province are designated by Indian names, either 
significant of a personal right, or expressive of some pro- 
minent locality. Thus the Etienne, the Barnaby, the 
Bartholemew, Renous, and others, are called after the 
respective Chiefs to whom they originally belonged ; 
while the Looshtork (now Saint John) signifies Long 
River ; the Restigouche, Broad River ; the Miramichi, 
Happy Retreat ; the Nipisiquit, Noisy or Foaming Ri- 
ver ; the Tootooguse, Fairy River ; the Taboointac, the 
place where two reside ; the Magaugudavic, the River 
of Hills ; and the Richibucto, the River of fire. 



COUNTY OF NORTHUMBERLAND. 



CHAPTER II 






Geographical position— early history— original trade between 
the French and Indians — some account of the first settlers ; 
and the cause oj their dispersion. 



The County of Northumberland is seated in the Gulf 
of Saint Lawrence ; and originally comprehended an 
area of nearly 8,000 square miles, haying a river fron- 
tier, from the source of the Restigouche to Dalhousie 
harbour ; and a sea board, thence along the south side 
of the Baie des Chaleurs, and along the Gulf Coast, on 
to Shediac Island. It formerly contained eleven pa- 
rishes ; — viz. Newcastle, Alnwick, Wellington, Carle- 
ton, Glenelg, Chatham, Nelson, Ludlow, Saumarez, 
Beresford, and Northesk. 

In consequence of its unwieldy size, and the increase 
of its population, it was trisected by an Act of the Ge- 



28 COUNTY OF 

neral Assembly, passed in the 7 th year of the reign of 
his Majesty King George IV. By this Act, the Parishes 
of Wellington ana Carleton, with their unappropriated 
rear, were erected into a new County, called Kent ; 
while those of Saumarez, and Beresford, were formed 
into another, styled Gloucester. Northumberland is 
therefore, bounded on the south by Kent, on the north 
by Gloucester, on the east by the gulf ; and on the west 
by the county of York. But neither the precise limits 
of this county, nor of its dissevered portions, have been 
yet defined ; and therefore no correct extent, or exact 
boundaries, can be assigned to any of them. 

This suspended demarcation is an evil that should be 
obviated as expeditiously as possible, for many serious 
inconveniences result from it : Road work, Poor Rates, 
and other Parochial responsibilities are evaded by some ; 
while neither the performance of the one, nor the pay- 
ment of the other, has been able to screen many from 
the consequences of petty and vexatious law suits. It 
also creates a doubt as to the exact locality of freeholds, 
a circumstance which, controuled by the vibration of 
opposite interests, during the late contested elections 
for Gloucester and Kent, became occasionally an ad- 
vantage or an evil, a sophism, or an argument. 

When we consider that this country is but of recent 
discovery ; and that although the object of the French 
Court was dominion, that of the people was gain, we 
cannot suppose that any very extensive or flourishing 
settlements, ever previously existed in any of the coun- 



NORTHUMBERLAND. , 29 

ties we are about to describe. We know tnat the 
French who came hither were actuated by pecuniary 
motives; and that hunting and fishing were more re- 
munerative, and less fatiguing, than the cultivation of a 
wilderness. Then, considering the hostile feelings of the 
Indians ; their aversion to any encroachments, upon 
what they considered their natural inheritance ; the 
pursuits and habits of a people emigrating from the sea- 
board of one country, to that of another ; the pre-dis- 
position such habits not only inspire, but engender in 
favor of desultory avocations ; the disparity of soil and 
climate between France and a bleak northern forest ; 
the love of home, to which all are subject ; and above 
all, the oscillating proprietorship, which occasionally 
shifted the country to a different owner, every ten or 
twelve yeais ; we cannot for a moment, entertain the 
belief, that the early history of the French, in these 
parts, was distinguished by any thing remarkable, or 
important. 

The facts that the history of Nova Scotia proper, 
though that country occupied a very prominent position, 
contains very few remarkable incidents ; that Halifax 
is little more than seventy years old ; and that the 
French government could never permanently establish 
its authority in the province, impressed me, ere I com- 
menced my researches, with an opinion, that our early 
history, would not, at this approximate period, afford 
anything particularly interesting. I thought, however, 
that by collecting the most authentic information with- 
in my reach, I might do some service, were it only to pi- 



SO COUNTY OF 

oneer the way for others, and' furnish historical ele- 
ments for future writers. 

To attain these ends, I have sustained a good deal of 
personal fatigue ; and in arranging and revising the 
materials procured by my enquiries, I have carefully 
weighed the authenticity of every statement, determin- 
ed, that although there might be no merit in the com- 
position, there should be truth in the narrative. 

It is a little remarkable, that the first French settlers 
were from the north of France ; and the first English 
ones from the North of Britain. The former being 
from Lunaire, Saint Maloes, and other sea ports of Nor- 
mandy ; while the latter generally came from Aber- 
deenshire, Bamffshire, and other parts of Scotland. 

The northern part of Nova-Scotia, said to have been 
purchased by the King of France, ^from Sir David Kirk, 
is supposed to have been no other than the old County 
of Northumberland. This transaction appears to have 
taken place, about the same time as the ratification of 
the treaty of St. Germains, namely in 1632. It is plau- 
sibly, and I think candidly related, that about the years 
1642, 43, and 44, a Monsieur Jean Jacques Enaud, a 
native of Basque, in the lower department of the Pyre- 
nees, in France, and of whom I shall speak more fully 
in my account of Gloucester, occasionally traded with 
the Indians of Miramichi ; and it is conjectured that he 
had an establishment on Bale des Vents Island, where he 
collected all his furs and peltries ; and another on Por- 



NORTHUMBERLAND. 31 

tage Island, where he prosecuted Walrus, or Sea Cow 
fishing. These accounts appear entitled to credibility, 
When we consider that this country, at that time, be- 
longed to the French, both by purchase and treaty ; 
and that it is an historical fact, that one Daunley, also 
a Frenchman, obtained a large grant in Nova-Scotia, 
from his government, cotemporaneous with the period 
which tradition assigns to the arrival of Mon. Enaud. 

I have been told by several of the oldest, and most in- 
telligent of the Indians, that this gentleman's stores 
were all demolished by their ancestors ; and that he 
himself was driven to Nipisiquit, where he had his per- 
manent residence. 

Nothing further is noticed of the arrival of any French 
emigrants hither, until the year 1672, or 1673, that is, 
six years after the treaty of Breda, when, it is said, 
some French families from St. Maloes arrived here, and 
settled on the present scite of Baie des Verits Village. 

About the year 1702, we find the French pretty thick- 
ly established on different parts of the Miramichi, as 
well as along the Gulf shore towards Miscou ; and about 
the entrance of the Richibucto. About this time they 
appear to have cultivated an intimacy with the Indians, 
whom they partially instructed in the rudiments of 
Christianity. They moreover secured the sympathies 
of the natives by intermarriages ; and this alliance, 
strengthened by a similarity of religion, secured them 
in the peaceable possession of the country. 



32 . COUNTY OF 

During the regency of the Duke of Orleans, which 
lasted from the death of Louis the Fourteenth in 171S, 
until his successor was declared of age in 1722, the 
French interest made little progress in any part of No- 
va-Scotia, in consequence of the Regent's honorable 
observance of the treaty of Utrecht. Under the new 
Administration, however, of which Cardinal Fleury was 
the head, every means were used to diffuse French set- 
tlements even in the remotest parts of the country. This 
circumstance accounts for the former existence of a 
French Village at Baie des Vents, another at Neguack, 
a larger one at Canadian Point ; and a Town comprising 
upwards of two hundred houses ^ including a Chapel and 
Provision Stores, at Beaubair's Point. 

This Town is said to have been the head quarters of 
the French ; and the residence of a Monsieur Pierre 
Beaubair, their superintendant, after whom it, as well 
as Beaubair's Island, was called. 

On the east end of Beaubair's Island, where Messrs* 
Frasers now have their Establishment, it is said the 
French had a tolerably strong battery ; and also ano- 
ther, mounting sixteen guns, at French Fort Cove, near 
the present Mill seat of Mr. Patrick Henderson. They 
moreover had a manufactory for arms, as well as a ship 
yard and Commissariat Store at Fawcette's Point, now 
owned by Joseph Cunard # Co. but then called after the 
French Commissary. 

There can be no doubt but .the French had settle- 



NORTHUMBERLAND. S3 

ments in all the places I have mentioned, for in the im- 
mediate vicinity of each there are memorials of the fact. 
On Baie des Vents Island, the Village opposite to it, at 
Neguaak, and un Beaubair's point, the remains of cellar 
walis, wells, and chimniesare visible. In some of these 
places the soil still retains the traces of remote cultiva- 
tion ; while in others, culinary articles, old gun barrels, 
Antique stirrup irons, plough shafts, and other tangible 
proofs of occupation, have been frequently found. 

It does not appear that their trade was very conside- 
rable, or that they made any advances up the rivers ; 
but neither, nor indeed both of these circumstances, 
should surprise us. We know that the French are not 
a commercial people ; that they are strongly imbued 
with a military penchant ; that they are, consequently* 
fonder of building Garrisons and Stockades, than of 
erecting Warehouses and Wharfs ; and that hunters 
and fishermen make but indifferent farmers. Hence we 
may credit the report, that their whole commerce was 
confined to an exportation of Fish, Furs and Moose 
Skins, to Saint John's Island, Cape Breton and Quebec, 
whence they obtained the necessary supplies of manu- 
factured goods, West India Produce, &c. 

In this state we find them on the Miramichi, from the 
year 1740 to 1757. During the latter year, they suffer- 
ed very much from some interruption in their trade, and 
a failure in their crops, in the winter they were re- 
duced to great extremity ; they endured much from hun- 
ger, and more from disease ; and the ensuing year, in 

5 



34 COUNTY OF 

stead of alleviating their misery by relief, terminated it 
by. aggravation. 

In tho spring and winter of 1758, the distress and mi- 
sery of these poor people being increased by the capture 
of two French transports, destined to their relief, with 
Provisions, Clothing, #c. more than Eight Hundred of 
them died of famine and pestilence ; and were buried 
chiefly at Beaubair's Point, It is said the disease, thus 
superinduced by their impoverished condition, was 
communicated by the VJndenne of Morlaix, a vessel 
wrecked near the entrance of the harbour, and whose 
remains are still lying a short distance from the mouth 
of Baie des Vents River. 

Here we might enquire why were the French, if 
either Aliens or Neutrals, allowed to. garrison and occu- 
py the territories of Great Britain, or if Lieges, why were 
they permitted to trade directly with the Colonies of a fo- 
erign state ? The most zealous advocates of unrestrain- 
ed commerce never yet carried their principles of " Free 
Trade" to such an unqualified extent as this. I have 
introduced these seeming anomalies, in order that they 
may be explained. 

Although by the " Definitive Treaty" of Utrecht, the 
French relinquished all Acadia, or rather Nova Scotia, 
to Great Britain, yet they always occupied that part of 
it lying to the North West of Fort Cumberland. Whe- 
ther this arose from its being a remote part of the Pro- 
vince, and therefore not entitled to the particular consi- 






NORTHUMBERLAND. 35 

deration of our government ; or from an inability on 
their part to bestow the necessary solicitude on it ; or 
from whatever other cause, I shall not presume to de- 
cide ; but such is the fact, that all the above district, 
and which now constitutes the Province of New Bruns- 
wick, never was enjoyed by the British, till after the 
conquest of Cape Breton. Of this statement the cap- 
ture of the French transports, and some other circum- 
stances we have mentioned, are corroborative. 

The affecting calamities which involved the French 
settlers in such extensive misery, fell with almost con- 
centrated violence on Beaubair's town ; and one of the 
first victims of its malignity was Beaubair himself. The 
other settlements being more extensively cultivated, 
felt it less severely ; but their surviving inhabitants, ei- 
ther dreading the hostility of the English, who had al- 
ready taken Louisburg, or terrified by the character of 
the visitation from which they had escaped, fled to the 
Bale des Chaleurs, Saint John's Island, Memramcook, and 
wherever else they could find refuge. A great number 
of the Indians had also died, and many of the surviving 
ones, entertaining the same fears as the French, accom- 
panied them in their flight. In short every place was 
deserted but Canadian point, Neguaak and the Batte- 
ry at French Fort Cove, at each of which a few persons 
still remained. 

After the conquest of Quebec, by the British, a ves- 
sel that had been sent to England with the official des- 
patches, and the remains of General Wolfe, was, ow- 



36 COUNTY OF 

ing to a stress of weather, or some other adverse cir- 
cumstance, driven into Miramichi. 

The Captain, conceiving this to be a favourable op.*, 
portunity for replenishing his stock of water, ordered a 
boat to be manned for that purpose. Six men were ac- 
cordingly despatched on that duty : they proceeded up 
the river ; landed at Henderson's cove, where Messrs. 
Gilmour & Rankin now have their Saw T Mills ; and after 
having loaded their boat, carelessly rambled within the 
edge of the forest. While indulging their innocent cu-. 
riosity, they were surprised by a party of armed Indi- 
ans, who had been secretly watching them. The poor 
fellows were dragged into the woods, and there inhu-. 
manly murdered, by the infliction of all those refined and 
excruciating tortures peculiar to savage executions. — 
For the honor of humanity we hope it is untrue, but it 
is nevertheless confidently asserted, that two or three 
French soldiers, stationed at French Fort Cove, were 
present at, and assisted in the performance of this cruel 
and unprovoked butchery. 

The Captain, growing alarmed at the prolonged ab^ 
sence of his men, put such enquiries to the Pilot as the 
nature of his fears suggested. These elicited re- 
plies that at once confirmed his apprehensions, and de- 
termined his retaliation. He proceeded with his ves- 
sel up the river ; silenced the battery at French Fort 
Cove, and coming abreast of the settlement at Canadian 
Point, razed it to the ground, and killed almost every 
one of the half famished creatures in it. Having taken 






NORTHUMBERLAND. 31 

the water on board, he proceeded losea, but on his way 
out, again wreaked his vengeance on a small Chapel at 
Neguaak. At his approach the few inhabitants fled; 
and then executing his reprisal upon the Church, he 
set it in flames, from whence the settlement has ever 
since been distinguished by the name of Burnt Church. 

In the year 1759, the few French remaining at Mira- 
michi, along with those at Richibucto, Buctouche, Pet- 
ticodiac and Memramcook, made their submission to 
Colonel Frye, of Fort Cumberland. And in the January 
following, the Rev. Mr. Manack, one of the Roman Ca- 
tholic Missionaries of these Pistricts, attended by the 
principal French inhabitants, and four Indian Chiefs, 
repaired to the same place and formally subscribed to 
their submission ; thereby binding themselves, and those 
whom they represented, to come to Baie Verte, with all 
their effects, as early in the spring as possible. 

In the course of the winter, and after the hunting sea- 
son was over, eight other Indian Chiefs, making in all 
twelve, tendered their submission. 

The following is a list of their names ; and of the res- 
pective districts they governed : 

Louis Francis, Chief of Miramichi. 
Dennis Winemowet do of Tobogunkik. 
Eienne Abchabo do of Pohoomoosh. 
Claud Atanage do of Gediaak. 

Paul Lawrence do of La Have. 

Joseph Algemoure do of Chignecto. 
John Newit do of Pictou. 



33 COUNTY OF 

Baptist Lamorne do of St. John's Island. 
Rene Lamorne do of Nalkitgoniash. 

Jeannot Piquidauduet of Minas. 
Augustin Michael do of Richibucto. 
BartlemyAungualett of Keshpugowitk. 

As a little glossary is required for some of the names 
of these places, I shall stop to observe, that Tobogun- 
kik is the original name of Taboointac ; — that Pohoo- 
moosh alludes to Pugrnouche ; that Gediaak represents 
Shediack ; that Chignecto is intended to signify Cum r 
berland ; that Nalkitgoniash, is meant to express Anti- 
goneeshe ; and that Keshpugowitk refers to Kishou- 
buguaak. 

The above persons are supposed to have been the 
most distinguished men of the Eastern or Micmac nation, 
at that time estimated above five thousand souls. 

The Indian Chiefs were sent to Governor Lawrence 
at Halifax, who allowed them, after having received a 
renewal of their submission to his Britannic Majesty, to 
retain their respective dominions, and exercise their 
usual prerogatives. The French totally abandoned Mi- 
armiehi, and dispersed themselves through the Counties 
of Westmoreland and Cumberland ; and thus, in the 
brief space of three years, did the whole Northern part 
of this Province relapse into almost original solitude. 



CHAPTER III. 



First settlement by the British — daring outrages committed on 

them by the Indians — rencontre between the Indians and 

part of the crew of a British sloop of war — the consequences 

cf this struggle — some account of the origin of the Timber 

Trade and the success that attended it. 



Although Great Britain obtained peaceable posses- 
sion of the Province of New Brunswick in the year 
1760 ; the northern part of it may be said to have re- 
verted to the Indians. No notice being taken of it, for 
the first four years, by its new masters, the Micmacs, 
again became the lords of their paternal wilderness. 

The authority of the French King this people had 
never acknowledged ; they always considered the 
country to be their own ; and the few French settle- 
ments established in it, as institutions that they tole- 
rated, because they were convenient. The proud 



40 COUNTY OF 

and indomitable spirit of the Red Man, had never bowed 
to the foreigner ; his uncompromising soul had never 
learned subjection ; nor had his neck ever submitted to 
a stranger's yoke. Hence we may reasonably suppose, 
that the submission they were now called upon to make 
to the British King, was exceedingly repugnant to their 
feelings ; and that in their profession of allegiance, they 
were influenced by fear, not by affection. Nor can it be 
imagined that mere Neophytes could be so familiar with 
the nature and obligation of an oath, as to contemplate 
the prostrate subjection such an act involved, or under- 
stand the responsibility it imposed. 

In the days of their deepest barbarism, long before 
science discovered them, or revelation enlightened them, 
each tribe considered the respective country, or tract 
they occupied, as the inheritance nature had bestowed 
upon them. And in the flickering light of religion that 
now dawned in their souls, they beheld a supreme 
Being clothed in Justice and Equity ; infinite in power ; 
in glory overwhelming ; whose dominion was boundless ; 
and whose presence pervaded the immensity of space. 
Their slender acquaintance with Christianily, being 
obtained through the ministry of a religion peculiarly 
ceremonial and impressive, only confirmed the senti- 
ments nature had inspired ; and the Country being left 
wholly to themselves for four or five years, seemed to 
be a tacit admission of their right. 

These circumstances may explain some of the rea- 
sons why the Indians were so jealous of the first 



NORTHUMBERLAND. 41 

English settlers ; and also account for the fluency of 
the conspiracies, which they concerted against them. 

In the preceding chapter we have seen that a Mr. 
Enaud, from Basque, was the first European that ever 
visited Miramichi ; — that the first British ship that ever 
cleft its bosom, was the vessel that bore the honoura- 
ble burthen of Wolfe's remains ; and we shall now see, 
who was the first English settler that landed on its 
banks. 

In the summer of 1764, Mr. William Davidson, a gen- 
tleman from the North of Scotland, and father to the 
present Ohief Magistrate of this County, arrived here. 
His was the distinction to be the first English settler in 
the County of Northumberland ; his the honor, 67 years 
ago, to engrave the first impression of his foot upon our 
soil. Of this worthy man's contemporaries but very 
few, I believe, are now in existence ; but although we 
cannot, without committing a slight indelicacy, produce 
many evidences of his character, it is gratifying to know 
that tradition has preserved a lively recollection of his 
virtues. Mr. D. is universally represented to have been 
a man of considerable attainments, of amiable disposi- 
tion, of enlarged views, and enterprising spirit. 

At this time there was not a single house standing in 

the present county of Northumberland ; nor a single 

European residing within its verge. The abandoned 

houses of the French, had been industriously destroyed 

by the Indians ; and the shattered remnant of their for- 

6 



42 COUNTY OF 

mer owners, deterred by the recollection of the calami- 
ty that dispersed them, had neither the inclination nor 
the courage to revisit the scene of it. 



'c 



Accordingly poor Davidson found himself alone and 
in a wilderness ; or what was worse, surrounded by sa- 
vages, whose language he knew not, and with whose 
customs he was unacquainted. To speak of the difficul- 
ties this enterprising man must have endured were need- 
less ; — he left the land of his fathers in search of a trans- 
atlantic home ; he had travelled over the mountain 
wave, and found a residence in the forest. I shall say 
nothing of the powerful magnetism of home, for while I 
write the agonizing syllable, I feel its attractive influ- 
ence enter my very soul ; nor shall I say any thing of 
the painful separation from relatives and friends — not a 
word concerning the anguish that rends the heart, when 
it is about to be divorced from all that is near and dear 
to it — not a single remark on the privations, hardships 
and perils, consequent upon emigration from a popu- 
lous and flourishing country, into an uninhabited and 
gloomy forest, where the Micmac ruled by menace, and 
the Savage legislated by the bloody statutes of the to- 
mahawk and the knife. 

In the following year, Mr. Davidson, obtained a grant 
of 100,000 acres, upon the Elm Tree tract, on the south 
west branch of the Miramichi. 

Here, about the year 1772, or 73, he and a Mr. Cort, 
then lately arrived from Aberdeen, set a cross net, with 



' NORTHUMBERLAND. 43 

which they annually caught from 14 to 18 hundred 
tierces of Salmon. In order to meet the requisitions of 
an extending trade, Mr. Davidson built a large schoo- 
ner of 300 tons, called the Miramichi. This vessel was 
lost a couple of years after, while attempting to enter 1 
the harbour of New London, on her voyage hence, to 
the Island of Grenada. 

Nothing particular occurred, except the occasional 
hostilities of the Aboriginals, until the year 1775, when 
an* open rupture commenced between Great Britain 
and her North American Colonies, now United States. 
The Indians, who had hitherto been prevented from 
using open violence, by a passive submission to their 
authority, a compliance with their exactions, and the 
unremitting exertions of the Missionaries who occasion- 
ally visited them ; now shook off every restraint, and 
exhibited themselves in their true colours. They com- 
mitted the most daring outrages ; burned two or more 
houses ; appropriated the people's cattle to their own 
use, and plundered what few stores there were; parti- 
cularly Mr. Cort's, from which they took upwards of 
700 Moose skins ; and whatever else they considered 
valuable. They openly declared in favour of the Re- 
volted Americans ; and regularly corresponded with 
them by delegates sent to the lines. Nothing was heard 
but their deafening shouts and war yells ; as they pro- 
ceeded up and down the river, displaying flags and other 
symbols of their disaffection ; and breathing the most 
sanguinary denunciations, against the terrified and 
unoffending settlers. 



44 COUNTY OF 

The arrival, in this year, of a Mr. Alexander Hen- 
derson, two persons named Murdoch and Malcolm, and 
a few others, from Saint John's Island, although it in- 
fused a little vigour into the harrassed settlers, was 
unable to check the overbearing arrogance, or restrain 
the increasing cruelty of the natives. 

As the American interest advanced in the war, the 
Indians became commensurately vindictive ; and the 
people, in order to preserve their lives and property, 
were obliged to represent their perilous situation to the 
government at Halifax, 

Early in the ssammer of 1777, when the people had 
given up all hopes of relief from Halifax ; and were ac- 
tually preparing to fly from a murderous^, which they 
were assured Would issue against them from an Indian 
conclave, then sitting at Bartibog Island, the Viper 
Sloop of War, Captain Harvey, appeared off Oak Point. 

This vessel, on her way hither, had captured an Ame- 
rican Privateer, called the Lafayette ; and that he might 
the more easily seize the Indians, Captain H. dispatched 
her up the River under American colours. In order 
more effectually to insure the success of this stratagem, 
a Mr. Ross, of Perce, who had been on his way hence, 
homeward bound with a cargo of salt, and who had ac- 
quainted Captain Harvey with the state ofMiramichi, 
was, at his own request, put on board the prize. Not- 
withstanding these deceptive measures, and the addi- 
tional one of the crew hailing as Bostonians, therwse did 
not succeed. 



NORTHUMBERLAND. 45 

After some parley, however, so fond of plunder had 
the fellows become, by their repeated robberies of the 
people, that they determined to go on board and take 
the vessel, no matter to what nation she belonged. A- 
bout 30 or 35 of them were allowed to come on board, 
when some, finding resistance to be useless, peaceably 
submitted ; while the ringleaders, after a desperate 
struggle, were overcome, put in irons, and carried to 
Quebec. 

The two following incidents, connected with this 
transaction, exhibit the ferocity, as well as natural bra- 
very of the men, with whom the early settlers had to 
deal. 

Pkrre Martin^ an Indian of remarkably large stature, 
and athletic make, made, when two English marines at- 
tempted to put him in irons, a most desperate resist- 
ance. In the course of the contest he particularly dis- 
tinguished himself ; but on this occasion, all the haugh- 
tiness of his soul came to nerve the energy of his arm. 
It is said that he absolutely strangled the two men in the 
scuffle ; and that after he had received two or three se- 
vere wounds from some others who attacked him, that 
he wrenched a bayonet from one of the sailors, and by 
the force of a blow which he aimed at the disarmed man, 
drove the weapon through one of the stanchions of the 
vessel. Being at length overpowered by numbers, he 
fell apparently dead, and literally riddled with wounds. 
But the Micmac's spirit was not yet extinguished ; lin- 
gering existence still fluttered in his bosom ; for when 



46 COUNTY OF 

the almost inanimate corpse lay bathed in blood, gash- 
ed with wounds, and quivering with agony, Mirlin, ral- 
lying the dying energies of his soul, sprang to his feet, 
and fastening upon the throat of one of his companions, 
whom he upbraided with cowardice, had nearly suc- 
ceeded in strangling the poor wretch, when he received 
his death blow from one Robert Beck, an Irishman. 

This is the first incident ; the second one is as fol- 
lows : 

After the Indians had been some time in custody in 
Quebec, the authorities there, thought proper to re- 
move a part of them to Halifax. Seven or eight were 
accordingly put on board an armed vessel, which on 
her voyage encountered one of the enemy's cruisers. 
While the officers and crew were preparing for the en- 
gagement, Etienne Barnaby, one of the Indian prison- 
ers, requested leave to fight for King George, stipula- 
ting at the same time, that he should have a place on 
the quarter deck. His request, although strongly tinc- 
tured with pride, was complied with. His fetters were 
removed ; a musket placed into his hands ; and so 
judiciously did he use it, that he shot two men who were 
successively placed at the wheel of the American ship. 
The English flag obtained the victory ; the prize was 
brought into Halifax, and Etienne received his liberty 
as the recompence of his valour. 

It may also be added that Mr. Ross, of whom I have 
spoken, lost his arm in the affair with the Viper ; and 
was afterwards made King's pilot between Quebec and 
Gaspe. 



NORTHUMBERLAND. 47 

Of the eighteen Indians, thus taken, not more than 
five or six ever returned ; among these, however, were 
the two truculent villians, Kives and Tax, who shortly 
after, availing themselves of the panic, created by Mc 
Lean's conspiracy,* renewed the apprehensions of the . 
people, and committed many atrocities, of which the 
authenticated murder of two men and a boy, was not 
the greatest. 

Up to this period, as there were but a few settlers, 
and not a very large capital, our trade was necessarily 
limited. It consisted principally, of an exportation of 
Salmon and Alewives, to the Spanish and West India 
markets ; an inconsiderable business in Furs ; and' 
a trifling barter with such trading vessels, as came hither 
from Halifax, and the circumjacent ports. 

In 1786, an additional feature was introduced into 
our trade, while an accession of numbers was added to 
our population. This year, Mr. Davidson commenced 
working two saw-mills he had erected on one of the 
tributaries of the North" West ; and several loyalists and 
disbanded soldiers settled on lands they obtained from 
Government. 

At this time, and indeed for several years after, large 
pines were so abundant, that the very edges of the 
rivers were fringed with them ; no one, however, was 
acquainted with the manufacture of timber ; but the 

* This unfortunate and deluded man, was executed at Quebec, for conspi- 
ring with some Vcrmontese Raftsmen, to surprise the garrison, and deliver up 
the city to the Americans. 



46 COUNTY OF 

period was rapidly arriving when we were to be initiated 
into its mysteries — when our trade was to be enlarged 
by the introduction of a very important branch of domes- 
tic industry. 

In 1790, agreeably to a contract made between him 
and Messrs. Hunter and Robertson, of Greenock, Mr. 
Davidson shipped three cargoes of masts and spars for 
his Majesty's Dock Yards, on board of the Achilles, Capt. 
Pike, the Admiral Parker, Captain Skinner, and the 
Queen, Captain Dawson. After the death ofMr.D. 
which happened in the course of this year, the mast 
contract was taken by Messrs. Fraser & Thorn, a firm, 
then lately established on Beaubair's Island. For the five 
or six succeeding years, the whole trade of the country, 
then embracing a very brisk and profitable exportation 
offish, furs, peltries, and sawed lumber, fell into the 
hands of these Gentlemen. 

The head of this respectable firm commenced life in 
humble circumstances ; and by a course of indefatiga- 
ble and honourable industry, realized a considerable for- 
tune. He was a man of strong mind, extensive infor- 
mation, and inflexible rectitude. Amiable and social 
in private life, he ruled his dependents with clemency ; 
punctual and upright in his professional intercourse, he , 
acquired influence by his integrity, and accumulated a 
fortune by his honesty. For several years was he the 
talented and uncompromising representative of this 
county, where his name and his virtues are still che- 
rished with respect and attachment. So deservedly 



NORTHUMBERLAND. 49 

great was the confidence reposed in this worthy man, 
by the electors of Northumberland, that even long after 
his removal from it, they continued to make him the de- 
pository of their rights and privileges ; nor would they 
have relieved him of his distinguished solicitude, had 
not a greater dignity interposed between their attachment 
and his inclination. 

A few years before his death, Mr. F. was appointed a 
Privy Councillor of Nova-Scotia, in which Province, the 
name of the Hon. James Fraser, is now as dear, as it 
was then familiar. Thus, • by the path of honour, did 
he arrive to the highest colonial distinction, leaving 
behind him a name and a reputation, alike creditable to 
himself, and grateful to his posterity. 

Like the opening blossom that gradually discloses its 
sweets, and unfoWs its beauties, the latent resources of 
Miramichi, now began to germinate ; — and as the fra- 
grant exhalation of the flower conciliates our admiration, 
by charming our senses ; so the prospect of making 
money, promising wealth and independence, many 
were allured hither, from Great Britain, the United 
States, and other places. Population began to thicken, 
a few additional houses and stores sprung up ; and these 
circumstances, shadowing the outline of an anticipated 
improvement, the measures such expectations would 
naturally suggest, were very prudently adopted. The 
present county lot was purchased ; a town reserve laid 
off ; a temporary gaol erected ; and different other in_< 

stitutions founded. 

7 



50 COUNTY OF 

It may afford a little interest, here, briefly to advert 
to the origin and early progress of our timber trade. 

Two cargoes, the Friends' Adventure, and the Black- 
itt, shipped by Messrs. Fraser and Thorn, in 1792, con- 
tained the first square timber ever exported from Mira- 
michi. Such was the humble beginning of a trade, that 
has since acquired so extensive a character. 

The timber being good, and easy to be obtained, a 
rather extensive lumbering now commenced ; and pro- 
bably it would have been very remunerative, had not 
the French Republic, just then organized, declared war 
against Great Britain. 



l D' 



In consequence of this event, the manufacturing in- 
terest became greatly depressed at home ; — Ships, pro- 
visions, seamen's wages, insurance, and freights rose ; 
while the Colonial timber suffered a great depreciation. 

The subjoined statement shows how 7,000 tons of 
timber, brought to market in the summer of 1793, 
were disposed of. 



7,000 tons. 



Brought to Market 


in 1793. 




Tons. 


Shipped in 1797, - - 


- 1,150 


in- 1798, - - 


- 800 


in 1800, - - 


- 650 


in 1801, - - 


- 200 



Quantity shipped 2,800 



NORTHUMBERLAND. 51 

Brought over— Quantity brought to Market, 7,000 tons. 

Quantity shipped 2,800 

Sawed into lumber, and \ « nnfl 
split into lath wood ] IsUUU 

Reduced by re-hewing - 400 

Lost by the ice - - - - 600 

4,800 



Quantity accounted for on ) * 800 
contra side - - - J ' 

Sunk, rotted, purloined, &c. 2,500 7,000 



Thus we see, that of these 7,000 tons of timber ; but 
2,800 tons were shipped ; and that so low as 10s. per 
ton, and not until 8 years after it had come to market. 

About this time, the fur trade, which had been for 
some years declining, now almost totally failed ; and of 
the Moose, formerly so plentiful, not one was now to be 
seen. The mast contract also ended this year ; and 
hence, our trade may be said to have settled down into 
an almost typical minature of its present character. 

The following statement exhibits the different articles 
of commerce, with their average prices up to this period, 

Salmon, per tierce of 300 lbs. - £2 10 

Alewives, per barrel - - « 15 

Herrings, per do. - - - 12 G 

Moose Skins, each - - - 7 6 

Beaver Skins, per lb. - - - 6 

Red Fox Skins, each - - - 6 

Otter Skins, each - - - 12 6 



COUNTY OF 

Loupcervier Skins, each - - 12 G 

Fisher Skins, each - - - 6 

Martin Skins, each - - 2 6 

Minx Skins, do. - - 2 

Musqwash Skins do. - 1 

White Pine Timber, per ton. - ' - 10 

Red Pine, - do. - - 12 6 

Black Birch - do. ^ - - 15 

White Pine Lath wood, per cord, -■ 16 

White Pine Masts, from 16 to 23 ) Q - 
inches in diameter ; — per inch ) 

Spruce Spars, 6 to 13 inches ; p. inch 0$ 

Merchantable, W. P. Boards ; p. m. 1 5 

Clear Boards, and Planks ; do. 1 12 6 

Merchantable Shingles ; do. 7 6. 

I have already said that the sedition of a Mr. McLean, 
who suffered at Quebec, for conspiring against the go- 
vernment, and whose execution took place, I believe, in 
the fall of 1793, afforded an opportunity to the Indians 
for renewing their outrage. It is said that this man was 
here ; that he used every means to excite a revolt a- 
inong them, and that he secretly supplied them with 
arms and ammunition. It is also stated, that for some 
time after he went from this, the Indians frequently as- 
sembled in great numbers, at Burnt Church, and Moo- 
dy's point. On one occasion, upwards of two hundred 
of them met at the former place, and had concerted 
measures for the total extirpation of the people, when 
the timely arrival of the Rev. Mr. Cassinette, a Roman 
Catholic priest, from Gaspe, put an end to the confer- 
ence, by informing them of the fate of the man, who had 



NORTHUMBERLAND. 53 

seduced them from their allegiance. On receiving this 
disagreeable intelligence, they all returned to their du- 
ty ; and the people who had been obliged to abandon 
their homes, and concentrate themselves at Mr. Hen- 
derson's, in Chatham, and in other places of defence, 
returned to their respective houses, and enjoyed a tran- 
quillity, which has never since been disturbed by the 
Indians. 

"While arraigning the guilty, we should discriminate a 
little, least the innocent should be involved in their cen- 
sure. It is, therefore, but justice to add, that during 
this commotion, the Julian tribe, not only conducted 
themselves with exemplary forbearance, but even fre- 
quently interposed their influence in behalf of the people. 

Having now traced the progress of this settlement for 
the first thirty years, I shall leave it to the reader's re- 
flection, to consider the circumstances of the country, 
and the nature of the numerous obstacles and difficul- 
ties, the people must have encountered. There were 
then, neither Churches, nor Schools, Roads, or Bridges, 
Ferries, or Highways. Every one travelled by water ; 
communication was tedious and uncertain ; travelling 
dangerous and fatiguing ; supplies extravagantly dear, 
and very precarious ; delicacies unknown, and priva- 
tions familiar. Nor were there either Balls, or Routes, 
or Assemblies ; the intricacies of the dance were forgot- 
ten in the perplexities of life ; the pleasures of festivity 
seldom sweetened the bitterness of fatigue. With lux- 
uries they were unacquainted ; and their enjoyment* 
were as few, as their hardships were numerous. 



54 COUNTY OF 

Here let the reader pause for a moment, while I pro- 
ceed to close this chapter, by noticing the first act of 
blood, that ever stained the British Annals, in the Coun- 
ty of Northumberland. 

In the year 1797, Duncan McDonald, a resident of 
Bai des Vents village, having had some misunderstanding 
with a neighbour of his, named Donald McVicar, shot 
him dead, under the most aggravating circumstances of 
deliberate malice. McDonald was executed at Newcas- 
tle, on a temporary gallows, erected a short distance 
from the present Court House. For the trial of this un- 
fortunate man, was the first commission of Oyer and Ter- 
miner held in this county ; on which occasion, the Hon. 
John Saunders, now Chief Justice, presided, while the 
present Judge Bliss conducted the prosecution . 



CHAPTER IV. 



Gradual improvement of the Country — rapid increase of Trade 
— state of Miramichi before the fire — visit of his Excellency 
Sir Howard Douglas — description of the Fire, 



The man who writes of a Country almost covered 
with forests, and but recently emerged from semi-bar- 
barism, cannot be supposed to have much to relate. — 
He is like the Eastern traveller, who having wandered 
over the deserts of Arabia, and the plains of Hindostan, 
can supply little other than an account of the fatigues 
he endured, and a catalogue of the dangers from which 
he escaped. 

At the period when our last chapter closed, the mast 
contract ended, and the fur trade declined. About the 
same time, a few settlements were made on different 
parts of the Miramichi ; but although population in- 



56 COUNTY OF 

creased, farmers did not multiply. Most of the new 
settlers contented themselves with living on their land 
without cultivating it. Nearly all were employed, either 
in manufacturing timber, or in the fisheries. 

In the absence of official information, which, owing 
to the numerous alterations made in the Custom House 
business, I found it impossible to obtain, we cannot be 
far wide of the truth, when we affirm, that the fur trade 
for the ten or twelve years it was followed, seldom ex- 
ceeded from £1,800 to £2,000 a year ; that our timber 
exports were often as low as 3,000, and rarely exceeded 
6,000 tons annually ; but that our fisheries were gene- 
rally very productive, often varying in the catch, or 
quantity cured for exportation, from 3,000 barrels to 
5,000 tierces of salmon ; and sometimes of alewives, from 
considerably above that amount to double the number. 
Such may be considered the extent and character of 
our trade, until about the year 1813 or 1814. 

During all this time, though Europe writhed in the 
agonies of war, we reposed in the arms of peace. Nei- 
ther the conflagration that consumed the Jerusalem of 
the Czars, nor the hurricane that swept away the fading 
glories of the Escurial, ever reached us. Living in a 
retired nook, time with us wended its way undisturbed 
by a ripple. We neither indulged fears, nor entertained 
apprehensions, for though our venerable parent had 
volunteered to be the World's Forlorn Hope, the pre-emi- 
nency of her danger suggested no alarm. Convinced 



NORTHUMBERLAND. 57 

that she would triumph, the assurance became the bond 
of our security. 

Although the extraordinary coalition which Buona- 
parte projected against Great Britain, in the North of 
Europe, was of considerable advantage to the Canadas, 
land even to some of the ports in the Bay of Fundy, nei- 
ther Miramichi, nor any of the other settlements along 
the gulf derived any benefit from it, until the year 1815. 
They were then, as they are now, neither known, nor 
appreciated. 

The Country bordering on the gulf, and indeed the 
whole Province, has always been slandered, by every 
pamphleteer and scribbler that has written about the 
Colonies. The ignorance of one class has misrepresent- 
ed it ; a second has reviled and caricatured it ; and the 
knavery of a third, has endeavoured to deprive it of 
its resources, and plunder it of its acquisitions. Altho' 
possessing a valuable sea coast, and a fertile soil ; en- 
riched with large forests ; blest with a salubrious cli- 
mate ; and inhabited by British subjects ; it has been 
almost universally represented, as a country covered 
with swamps, enveloped in fogs, as cold as the arctic 
circle, and peopled by savages. This inverted descrip- 
tion reminds me of Basil Hall's satire on the hydrogra- 
phy of the Chinese seas. " I thought it the safer way," 
says the Captain, " to trust to lead, latitude, and look 
out ; and shut up my maps and charts altogether, for 
according to them, I found myself sailing across mighty 

forests ; scudding under bare poles in the interior of Chi- 

8 



58 COUNTY OF 

na ; and creeping over shoals, in places where I could 
find no bottom. 

But as the Alehymist reclaims the precious metal from 
the dross that disfigures its excellence, and conceals its 
beauty ; so the discerning eye of speculation, perceived 
our resources through the fogs and mists of the gaze- 
teers. 

About the year 1814, or 1815, the timber trade be- 
came a favourable and profitable pursuit, both here, and 
in Great Britain. Our usual commerce increased ; and 
ship-building added another branch to our industry. 
Every thing began to wear a new aspect. A tide of emi- 
gration flowed upon us.; and our population rapidly in- 
creased. Villages and settlements,Churches and Schools, 
with other corresponding features of improvement, 
shooting as it were from the wilderness, announced the 
rapidity of our progress. 

The ministry, dreading the hostility of the Northern, 
Powers of Europe ; and driven from the Baltic, by the 
secret treaty of Tilsit, were obliged to resort to the Co- 
lonies, in order to obtain the necessary supplies of timber 
for naval purposes. Thus thrown upon their own hither- 
to uncultivated resources, the goyernment wisely afford- 
ed every encouragement for the manufacture of Colonial 
timber. By special acts of Parliament, it was admitted 
duty free, while the permanent war duties on foreign 
growth, were considerably increased. These favoura- 
ble circumstances, backed by the solemn assurances of 



NORTHUMBERLAND. 59 

the government, that the same liberal policy which ne- 
cessity had dictated, should henceforward be strictly 
observed, created a strong predilection in favour of the 
new trade. Accordingly a great number of persons 
embarked in it ; and in a few years, upwards of One 
Million sterling, became invested in Saw Mills, Wharfs, 
Booms, Sfc The trade of the Canadas, now assumed a 
very extensive character ; while that of New Bruns- 
wick, may be said to have commenced. Not only 
Quebec, but St. John, St, Andrews,and even Miramichi, 
henceforth became the annual resort of a great number 
of trading vessels, as well as of large bodies of emi- 
grants. 

In the pressing exigencies of the British Nation, did 
the colonial timber timber trade originate ; and to these 
exigencies may we ascribe its sabsequent progress and 
extension, as well as our own immediate local import- 
ance. 

From this period until the year 1 824, trade generally 
increased, checked however by those casualties, to 
which commerce is liable, and which no human pru- 
dence can avert. In this year, as the following tables 
exhibit, the commerce of this county, seems to have 
attained its greatest magnitude. 

The Imports and Exports of the County of Northum- 
berland, in the year 1824 ; — the number of vessels, ex- 
clusive of coasters, therein entered and discharged ; 
also an account of their registered tonnage and seamen. 



60 COUNTY OF 

Arrived from the United Kingdom and Foreign Eu- 
rope, 327 vessels registering 94,601 tons, manned by 
4,274 seamen, and bringing the following goods and 
merchandize. 



Barrels of F 


lour, 


17,285 


do. ofBi 


:ead, .... 


J, 063 


do. ofM 


eal, 


, 11,598 


do. of Beef and Pork, 


6,016 


do. of Peas and Beans, 


J, 904 


do. of Naval Stores, 


0,218 


do. of Onions and Seeds, 


0,710 


Bushels of Corn, 


17,262 


do. of Barley, . . . . 


0,200 


Cwts. of Rice, 


0,160 


do. of Coffee, .... 


0,126 


do. of Sugar, .... 


2,462 


do. of Tobacco > 


0,727 


Gallons of Wine, 


6,49$ 


do. of Brandy and Gin, 


23,533 


do. of Rum, , . . , 


86,977 


Pounds of Pimento, 


0,224 


Tons of Salt, 


0,410 


do. of Iron and Copper, 


0,125 


do. of Mahogany and Logwood, 


. 0,012 


Chests of Tea, 


0,280 


Coils of Cordage, 


1,144 


Chaldrons of Coal, 


1,063 


Number of Hides, 


, 0,034 


Thousands of Bricks, • 


. 0,082 


do. of Sta 


ves, 


. 0,034 



NORTHUMBERLAND, 61 

Pieces of Stone Ware, . 60,300 

Packages of Merchandize, . 3,600 

The probable amount of these Imports, in Currency, 
adding costs and charges to the difference of exchange, 
may be estimated at about £180,000. 



Exported in 331 vessels, registering 94,800 tons, and 
manned by 4,341 seamen, viz : 

Timber, tons, . . - 141,384 

Pine Boards and Plank, M feet, 1,956 

Thousands of Staves, . . 0,304 

do of Shingles, . . 0,008 

Pieces of Masts and Spars, * , 1,400 

do of Oars and Rafters, . > 0,702 

do of Handspikes, . - 0,888 

Cords of Lathwood, . . 3,080 

Barrels of Pickled Fish, . . . 0,580 

do of Flour, . . . 0,737 

do of Bread, , . 0,00"* 

Quintals of Dry Fish, . , . 0,263 

Boxes of smoked Herrings, . . 0,070 

Gallons of Rum, . . . 8,627 

Barrels of Naval Stores, . . . 0,045 

Cwts. of Tobacco, . . 0,106 ■ 

Assuming the general rates of Invoice in our estima- 
tion of these exports, we cannot rate them very far 
above £160,000 currency. By this scale, our Imports 
would exceed our remittances by £20,000 ; and conse- 
qnently leave the country in debt for that amount. Dis- 
agreeable, however, as such a situation would be, ours 



62 COUNTY OF 

was still worse. When our shipments arrived in Great 
Britain, the timber market, in that country was very 
dull ; but as the greater part of them was consigned to 
pay remittances, sales had to be effected, though at a 
very depreciated price. 

Of this year's trade, we soon ascertained the result by 
feeling the consequences. After paying Freight, Insu- 
rance, Commission, and all the Incidental charges of 
Agency, &c. it was found that the JSett Proceeds arising 
from our consignments, did not collectively, average 
more than one half of the prime cost. That is : for 
most of the timber sent home, in 1S24, the shippers did 
not receive more than from 9s. to 9s. 6d. per ton. This 
arose, chiefly, from our excesses, and from the facilities 
we afforded the manufacturer. 

The merchants here, having imported rather largely, 
had as a matter of course, to credit rather liberally. 
Hence the timber trade became an exclusive pursuit ; 
and consequently, the only means by which our com- 
merce could be sustained. The lumberers, in many in- 
stances, were men of little property and less integrity. 
The supplies afforded them were highly priced ; and 
this circumstance, coupled with the facts, of their hav- 
ing little to lose, and hardly a probability of gaining, in- 
duced an extravagance in their habits, and a careless- 
ness iu their business, which generally involved them 
with the merchant. The latter, suffering from repeated 
losses of this kind, superadded to those accruing from 
high freights, and other disadvantages of chartering, a 
very sensible diminution of real property succeeded. 



NORTHUMBERLAND. 63 

Notwithstanding these disheartening circumstances, 
the trade of the following year was nearly the same ; — 
bat who, when adverting to 1825, can assume the calm- 
ness and deliberation, necessary for the discussion of 
commercial subjects. In this year, we were visited by 
a calamity, which making us popular by our misery, in- 
troduced us to a sorrowful intimacy with most of the ci- 
vilized nations of the earth. 

However comparatively insignificant the country may 
be, of which I have presumed to be the historian, or 
however desirable it were to avoid the charge of 
having endeavoured to attire my effort in the furbelows 
and flounces of extraneous drapery ; I cannot refrain de- 
voting a few pages to the consideration of an event 
which has introduced a new era into this pro- 
vince. 

A few months before that visitation, of which we shall 
speak anon, and we were happy and cheerful. Our trade 
was looking up ; and brightening were our prospects. 
The bosom of our river sustained a large fleet loaded 
with the productions of many climes ; its sloping banks 
were enamelled with the beauties of expanding vegeta- 
tion, and the edge of each flowery belt was fringed by the 
luxuriant foliage of the surrounding forest. Our Wharfs 
and Warehouses groaned under the weight ofthewealth 
they contained ; the market was well stocked with its 
staple commodity ; ships clustered on our sea board ; 
commerce flourished in our towns ; and plenty filled our 
hamlets. Health sat on every cheek ; gladness beamed 



64 COUNTY OF 

in every eye. Our late excellent Governor, too, Sir 
Howard Douglas, came to fill the cup of our pleasure, 
by favouring us with his presence. 

The visit of so distinguished a personage was exceed- 
ingly flattering; and the solicitude his excellency evinced 
for our prosperity, seemed to promise a continuance of 
it. The interview between the Governor and the Go- 
verned was an exhibition of the most amiable feelings. 
Respect and attachment distinguished the conduct of 
the people ; affability and condescension marked the de- 
portment of the magistrate. The order of the day was 
harmony ; the only rivalry, who should pay most res- 
pect to a man, that deserved it from every one. 

In short, we enjoyed all the blessings of a Jubilee, 
without enduring any of the fatigues of it ; while a 
sumptuous entertainment, alike creditable to the distin- 
guished guest, and his hospitable entertainers, closed 
the ceremony of the festival. Heaven seemed to smile 
upon us ; and, as if to acknowledge its benignity, by an 
act that would hallow our thanksgiving, and purchase 
future blessings, the foundation of a Presbyterian 
Church, was personally laid at Newcastle, by Sir How 
ard himself. 

Every heart throbbed with pleasure ; present enjoy- 
ment inspired coeval happiness ; and future prospects 
opened a pleasant way before us. 

But appearances are often deceitful ; some of the 
most beautiful flowers grow among briers ; and a hidden 



NORTHUMBERLAND. 65 

thorn lurks under the rose. The zephyrs that frisk on 
the surface of the sea, are often followed by the 
gale that distracts it ; — the breeze that fans the ocean's 
cheek, is succeeded by the hurricane that convulses its 
bow-els ; — the evening's tempest frequently ambuscades 
behind the N balmy stillness of a summer's morn ; — the 
setting rays of the sun occasionally light the path of a 
Tornado ; and all the undefinable horrors of a dark and 
tempestuous night, sometimes tread upon the retiring 
steps of a mild and beautiful day. 

In the midst of our enjoyments, the cause of our ap- 
proaching calamity had already commenced its opera- 
tion. 

The summer of 1825, was unusually warm in both 
hemispheres, particularly in America, where its effects 
were fatally visible, in the prevalence of epidemical dis- 
orders. During July and August, extensive fires raged 
in different parts of Nova Scotia, especially in the east- 
ern division of the Peninsula, but the country being ge- 
nerally cleared for a considerable distance round the 
settlements and villages, little injury was sustained. 

In Miramichi, and throughout the northern part of 
New Brunswick, the season had been remarkably dry ; 
scarcely any rain had fallen ; and considerable appre- 
hensions were entertained for the crops. Very exten- 
sive fires were observed in a north westerly direction ; 
along the sputh side of the Baie des Chaleurs ; in seve- 
ral parts of the District of Gaspe ; in the neighborhood 



60 COUNTY OF 

of Richibucto, and thence in a southerly direction to- 
wards Westmoreland. 

These fires, however, being rather ordinary circum- 
stances, as burning the trees and roots is the common 
system of clearing land, no danger was anticipated. 

But however reluctant I feel to scatter tears over our 
history, I shall no longer seek an evasion, by dwelling 
on preliminaries. 

From the first to the fifth of October, 1825, a season 
generally very cool, an extraordinary and unnatural heat 
prevailed. The protracted drought of the summer, act- 
ing upon the aridity of the forests, had rendered them 
more than naturally combustible ; and this facilitating 
both the dispersion and the progress of the fires that ap- 
peared in the early part of the season, produced the un- 
usual warmth. 

On the sixth, the fire was evidently approximating to 
us ; at difFerent intervals of this day, fitful blazes and 
flashes were observed to issue from different parts of the 
woods, particularly up the north west, at the rear of 
Newcastle, in the vicinity of Douglastown and Moor- 
fields ; and along the banks of the Bartibog. Many also 
heard the crackling of falling trees and shrivelled branch- 
es ; while a hoarse rumbling noise, not unlike the rush- 
ing of distant thunder, and divided by pauses, like the 
intermittent discharges of artillery, was distinct and 
audible. 



NORTHUMBERLAND. 6r 

On the seventh the heat increased to such a degree, 
and became so very oppressive, that many complained 
of its enervating effects. About 12 o'clock, a pale sickly 
mist, lightly tinged with purple, emerged from the fo- 
rest, and settled over it. This cloud soon retreated be- 
fore a large dark one, which occupying its place, wrapt 
the firmament in a pall of vapour. This incumbrance, 
retaining its position, till about three o'clock, the heat 
became tormentingly sultry. There was not a single 
breath of air. The atmosphere was overloaded ; — an 
irresistible lassitude seized the people ; and a stupifying 
dullness seemed to pervade every place but the woods 
which now trembled, and rustled, and shook, with an 
incessant and thrilling noise of explosions rapidly fol- 
lowing each other, and mingling their reports with a 
discordant variety of loud and boisterous sounds. 

At this time, the whole country appeared to be en- 
circled by a Fiery Zone, which gradually contracting its 
circle by the devastation it made, seemed as if it would 
not converge into a point while any thing remained to 
be destroyed, 

A little after four o'clock, an immense pillar of smoke 
rose in a vertical direction at some distance N. W. of 
Newcastle, for a while, and the sky was absolutely 
blackened by this huge cloud ; but a light northerly 
breeze springing up, it gradually distended, and then 
melted into a variety of shapeless mists. About an 
hour after, or probably at half-past 5 o'clock, innume- 
rable large spires of smoke, issuing from different parts 



6b COUNTY OF 

of the woods, and illuminated by flames, that seemed to 
pierce them, mounted to the sky. A heavy and suffo- 
cating canopy, extending to the utmost verge of obser- 
vation, and appearing more terrific, by the vivid flashes 
and blazes that wriggled and darted irregularly through 
it, now hung over us in threatening suspension, while 
showers of flaming brands, calcined leaves, ashes and 
cinders, seemed to scream through the growling noise 
that prevailed in the woods. 

All these palpable indications of the approaching ruin 
were unheeded, probably, because the people had never 
yet experienced the dreadful effects of fire, or had not 
sufficiently considered the change, wrought in the fo- 
rests, by the protracted heat of the summer. Nor could 
any other reasons have betrayed them into a neglect of 
the warning, which Mr. Wright and others endeavour- 
ed to propagate. Had the timely admonition of these 

gentlemen, received the attention it merited, many are 
of opinion, that a considerable part of the calamity 

might have been averted. It would be cruel, however, 

to harrow the recollection now ; experience makes wise 

men of us all ; after having endured evils, we become 

astonishingly clever in prescribing antidotes. 

About 9 o'clock, or shortly after, a succession of loud 
and appalling roars thundered through' the woods. 
Peal after peal> crash after crash, came bellowing the 
sentence of destruction. Every succeeding shock crea- 
ted fresh alarm ; every clap came loaded with its own 
destructive energy. With greedy rapidity did they ad- 



NORTHUMBERLAND. 69 

vance to the devoted scene of their ministry ; nothing 
could impede their progress ; they removed every ob- 
stacle by the desolation they occasioned. Several 
hundred miles of prostrate forests and smitten woods 
marked their devastating way. 

They came rushing with awful violence, devouring at 
every step, and hewing a frightful avenue to the spot 
where their fury was to be consummated. 

The tremendous bellowing became more and more 
terrific. The earth seemed to stagger as if it had reel- 
ed from its ancient foundations. The harmony of crea- 
tion appeared to have been deranged ; and about to revert 
into original chaos. Earth, Air, Sea, and Sky ; all visi- 
ble creation seemed to conspire against man ; and to tot- 
ter under the weight of some dreadful commission they 
were charged to execute. The river, tortured into vio- 
lence by the hurricane, foamed with rage, and flung its 
boiling spray upon the land. The thunder pealed along 
the vault of Heaven ; the lightning rent the firmament 
in pieces. For a moment, and all was still, a deep and 
awful silence reigned over every thing. All nature ap- 
peared to be hushed into dumbness ;—when — suddenly a 
lengthened and sullen roar came booming through the 
forest, and driving a thousand massive and devouring 
flames before it. Then Newcastle, and Douglastown, and 
the whole Northern side of the river, extending from 
Bartibogto the Naashwaak, a distance of more than 100 
miles in length, became enveloped in an immense sheet 
of flame, that spread over nearly 6,000 square miles. 



70 COUNTY OF 

That the stranger may form a faint idea of the deso- 
lation and misery no pen can describe, he must picture 
to himself a large and rapid river, thickly settled for 100 
miles, or more, on both sides of it. He must also fancy 
four thriving towns, two on each side of this river ; and 
then reflect, that these towns and settlements were all 
composed of wooden houses, stores, stables, and barns ; 
that these barns and stables were filled with the crops ; 
and that the arrival of the fall importations had stocked 
the warehouses and stores, with spirits, powder, and a 
variety of combustible articles, as well as with the ne- 
cessary supplies for the approaching winter. He must 
then remember,that the cultivated,or settled part of the 
river, is but a long narrow stripe, about a quarter of a 
mile wide, and lying between the river, and almost in- 
terminable forests, stretching along the very edge of its 
precincts ; and all round it. Extending his conception, 
he will see these forests thickly expanding over more 
than 6,000 square miles, and absolutely parched into 
tinder by the protrated heat of a long summer, and by the 
Jarge fires that had streamed through almost every part 
of them. Let him then animate the picture by scattering 
countless tribes of wild animals ; hundreds of domestic 
ones ; and even thousands of men through the interior. 
Having done all this, he will have before him, a feeble 
description of the extent, features, and general circum- 
stances of the country, which, on the night I have men- 
tioned, was suddenly buried in fire. 

What shall we say of the inconceiveably awful and 
terrific scene that now presented itself ? Who shall at 



NORTHUMBERLAND. 71 

tempt to describe the condition of a country, tortured 
and agonised by a hurricane, on every blast of which a 
messenger of vengeance seemed to ride. Un pardonably 
vain would that man be — exceedingly high should he 
stand in his own esteem, who would for a moment, think 
himself capable of describing the situation of a country, 
overwhelmed by a conflagration, whose every blast re- 
sembled the emissions of hell, and whose every billow 
appeared to sustain a demon. 

What eye can follow the impetuous course of a raging 
and consuming fire, sweeping over forests, towns, vil- 
lages, and hamlets, rooting up trees, ploughing the 
earth, and destroying every thing. 

What shall we say of the tremendous howling of the 
storm, dashing broken and burning trees, scorching 
sand, and flaming houses through the air. What of the 
boiling surges of the river and its different tributaries, 
flinging their maddened foam all around them, and 
smashing every thing that came within their fury. 
What of the indescribable confusion onboard of 150 
large vessels imminently exposed to danger ; many of 
them frequently on fire ; some burning, and others 
burned. 

It is painful to dwell on the agonized feelings and in- 
describable terrors of the wretched and miserable inha- 
bitants. But painful however, as such a task would be, 
to overcome the aversion, is not half so difficult, as to 
acquire the competency. Even now, the shrieks, 



72 COUNTY OF 

screams, and cries, of a wretched and beggared people, 
involved in ruin, desolation and despair, ring their mourn- 
ful cadences upon the ear. Oh God ! merciful and just, 
how shudering were the frantic cries, the wild expres- 
sions of horror, and the despairing groans of hundreds 
upon hundreds of poor houseless creatures, flying from 
-their smoking habitations, they knew not whither ; and 
mingling the thrilling echoes of their anguish, with the 
yells, roarings, and bellowings, of wild beasts, and do- 
mestic animals, perishing by fire and suffocation. 

Who can gauge the misery, or estimate the agony 
of poor industrious people suddenly stript of their all : 
and exposed, almost without a hope, to the dreadful 
alternative, of being either consumed by fire, or famish- 
ed by hunger. Whot tongue can express the intensity 
of anguish; what mind can contemplate the poignancy of 
that sorrow, which must have wrung the bursting 
hearts of men, and women, running half naked ; and in 
wild disorder, deploring their loss, and anticipating their 
end. Of children looking for their parents ; parents 
looking for their children ; and mothers encumbered 
with their infants, urging their way through lakes of 
fire> and volumes of smoke. 

The more I endeavour to contemplate this awful dis- 
pensation, the more convinced am I of my inadequacy 
to dp so. When I strive to raise my mind to a full con- 
sideration of it, its overwhelming magnitude crushes 
the attempt. Every step I make to approach it, the 
farther am I flung from it ; and the more intensely I 



NORTHUMBERLAND. 73 

strain my aching eyes to observe it, the less I see of it, 
for its multiplied and various horrors intervening be- 
tween the vision and the picture, wrap the whole in 
impenetrable gloom. 

Resting on the indulgence of those who have been 
kind enough to patronize this work, it may not be im- 
proper to state, that I was, at the time of the " Great 
Fire," residing within a mile of Newcastle. If my opi- 
nion be entitled to any consideration, this is its candid 
expression. — A greater calamity, than the Fire, which 
happened in Miramichi, never befell any forest country, 
and has been rarely excelled in the annals of any other : 
and the general character of the scene was such, that 
all it required, to complete a picture of the General 
Judgment, was the blast of a Trumpet, the voice of the 
Archangel, and the resurrection of the Dead. 



10 



CHAPTER V. 

Condition of the People, and appearance of the Country after 
the Fire. — (statement of lives lost and property destroyed. — 
•Amount oj contributions received for the sufferers ; and an 
account oj its disposal. 



If it be difficult to consider the action of the fire, it is 
no less painful to describe its effects. The elements 
had warred against us, and the Country bore the dread- 
ful impress of their hostility. A night of unexam- 
pled terror had come upon us ; and sad and sor- 
rowful was the morning that succeeded it. After a 
long and weary vigil of anxiety and travail, the slowly 
returning day faintly glimmered upon our misery. It 
approached tardily and heavily, insinuating a dim and 
shadowy light, scarcely perceptible through the thick 
and steaming exhalations, that issued from the boiling 



NORTHUMBERLAND. 75 

streams and rivers. The morning of the 8th came ; but 
it was dull, and dreary, and comfortless ; nor did the 
languidly rising sun bring any relief to a wretched and 
withering people. Like the weary centinel, who ex- 
hausted after a long night's watching, reluctantly leaves 
his bed, so did the jaded luminary, sluggishly rise from 
its hazy couch. Jaundiced and livid was its disk ; pale 
and blanched were its rays ; and vainly did it toil and 
struggle to escape from its murky prison. 

Notwithstanding its having rained heavily during the 
night, the fires still blazed in the woods ; but, though 
we heard their almost exhausted fury moaning through 
the leafless trees, we could not see them till between 
8 and 9 o'clock. From the sombrous dawning of the 
day, until then, it might be said that we lived in a mist. 
The drowsy and moistened sun, now feebly twinkling 
through several interstices self-cleft in the clouds, by , 
the irregular violence of their motion, shed a sickly 
light, which partially revealing the desolation, only 
served to increase it; 

A more ghastly, or a more revolting picture of hu- 
man misery, than the country now exhibited, cannot be 
well imagined. The whole district of cultivated land 
I have already described, was shrouded in the agoni- 
zing memorials of some dreadfully deforming havoc. — 
Of all its former comeliness, not a single vestige of a 
single lineament remained. Th*e tornado had poured 
its many wrathful vials over it ; and in the irrepressible 
fury of its rage, had swept from its surface, everything 



76 COUNTY OF 

that had either enriched or beautified it. Of the towns, 
villages, and hamlets, that lately enamelled it, nothing 
was now visible, but embers, ashes, and smoke. A mil- 
dew had fallen upon its ripening flowers, and blasted 
were all its fruits. The songs of gladness that formerly- 
resounded through it were no longer heard, for the voice 
of misery had hushed them. Nothing broke upon the 
ear, but the accents of distress ; the eye saw nothing 
except ruin, and desolation, and death. 

Newcastle, yesterday a flourishing town, full of trade 
and spirit, and containing nearly 1,000 inhabitants, was 
now a heap of smoking ruins, and Douglastown, nearly 
one third of its size, was reduced to the same miserable 
condition. Of the 260 houses and stores that composed 
the former, but 12 remained ; and of the 70 that com- 
prised the latter, but six were left. Moorfields, an old 
and populous settlement, near Douglastown, was a pile 
of ashes ; and the whole cultivated Parish of Ludlow 
was changed into a waste. But what did the madden- 
ed elements know of bounds and limits ? Was their 
wild and boisterous march to be regulated by the un- 
ruffled tranquility of a line, or the scientific precision of 
a course ? No. Having gone forth in the terrific majesty 
of excited fury, they scattered their blasting and wither- 
ing energies with desultory profusion. Hence Bartibog, 
Nappan, Black-River, and several other surrounding 
settlements became involved in the general ruin. More 
than four hundred square miles of a once settled coun- 
try, now exhibited one vast and cheerless panorama of 
desolation and despair. 



NORTHUMBERLAND. 77 

The forests disrobed of their verdure, resembled a 
country once covered with corn-fields, but now smitten, 
blasted, and beaten down by an unusually violent thun- 
der storm. As far as the eye could reach through the 
almost innumerable lanes and avenues the fire had 
made, the trees were charred, crisped, and leafless. — 
Some were standing in the mockery of erection, stretch- 
ing their gaunt and shrivelled limbs to the wind ; many 
lay flat on the ground ; others reclined in a supplicating 
posture ; and all were the naked, scathed, and burned 
monuments of the night's destruction. 

The few persons who had escaped from the visitation, 
sighed as they viewed the melancholy scene ; and those 
who had suffered grew pale at the contemplation of their 
own misery. Dispersed groups of half famished — half 
naked — and houseless creatures, — all more or less in- 
jured in their persons ; — many lamenting the loss of 
children, relations and friends ; — and all deploring the 
loss of some property, were wandering through the 
country. Nothing was heard but the most shuddering 
recitals ; no language was spoken but that of misery and 
woe. Every hour brought the most distressing accounts 
from the woods ; not a moment elapsed that did not 
furnish some fresh illustration of the extent of the cala- 
mity. 

Newcastle, Douglastown, and every thickly settled 
place resembled ravaged burial grounds. The half-burn- 
ed and mouldering cellars looked like violated graves ; 
and the tottering and shattered chimnies were a strik- 



78 COUNTY OF 

ing picture of broken and mutilated tomb stones. Could 
a few deceptions have been practised, a stranger would 
have believed, that succeeding armies of Goths, Huns, 
and Vandals, had wreaked their indiscriminate fury 
upon the country and its inhabitants. 

But a few hours had elapsed, and hundreds were 
hurled from comparative affluence into utter destitution. 
By one fell swoop, all that agriculture had reclaimed, 
all that art had erected, and all that commerce had a- 
massed, were flung in shattered fragments through the 
blazing air. What mind can analyze, what pen can des- 
cribe, what tongue can pronounce the feelings of indus- 
trious people, suddenly stript of their all, and thrown, 
with their helpless families, upon the measured bounty 
of promiscuous charity. What could be more distress- 
ing — what more heart-breaking, than to see infants, 
sensible of their condition, though unconscious of its 
cause, shivering with cold, and nestling their little heads 
in the bosom homes of their homeless mothers. 

I am not ambitious of harrowing the recollection of 
many of my readers, by telling them what they remem- 
ber, or of sickening their reverting sight, by acquaint- 
ing them with what they have seen. We all know that 
the distress and misery, both in reality, and appearance, 
outreached description and almost exceeded endurance ; 
and that the country wore an aspect, far more appalling 
and desolate, than the most lively imagination, horrified 
by a vivid remembrance of this event, and a desire glow- 
ingly to pourtray it could conceive. 



N ORTHU MBERLAiN D. 79 

I shall therefore say nothing of the human bodies, 
some with their bowels protruding, others with the flesh 
all consumed, and the blackened skeletons smokinsr. 
Of the headless trunks, and severed extremities ; of 
some bodies burned to cinders ; others reduced to ashes ; 
of many bloated and swollen by suffocation ; and of se- 
veral lying in the last distorted position of convulsing 
torture. Such was the bitter destiny of families and in- 
dividuals ; such were the heart-rending spectacles, scat- 
tered through the streets, and along the highways of 
our ravaged country. Brief and violent was their pas- 
sage from life to death ; and rude and melancholy was 
their sepulture. They died by fire, and were buried 
unhouseled and unanealled. Thousands of wild beasts, 
too, had perished in the woods ; and from their putre- 
scent carcases, issued streams of effluvium and stench 
that formed contagious domes over the dismantled set- 
tlements. It would be useless to speak of the domestic 
animals of all kinds, that lay dead and dying ir\ different 
parts of the country ; of the myriads of Salmon, Trout, 
Bass,and other fish, which poisoned by the alcholy, form- 
ed by the ashes, precipitated into the river, now lay 
dead, floundering and gasping on the scorched shores 
and beaches ; or of the countless variety of wild fowl 
and reptiles that shared a similar fate. 

We have already said, that the night of the 7th of 
October, in order to complete a picture of the eve of the 
General Assize of Mankind, required but the blast of a 
Trumpet, the voice of the Archangel, and the resur- 
rection of the dead ; — let us now dismiss the painful 



50 COUNTY OF 

consideration, by adding, that the morning of the 8th 
confirmed the appearance, only that some were still 
living, and that those who died had not arisen. 

Never were the tender offices of charity more indis- 
pensably necessary than on this occasion ; and never, 
perhaps, were they more promptly and seasonably ex- 
ecuted. The piercing cry of suffering humanity, ring- 
ing far and wide, had penetrated through the glades of 
the forest, and into the splendours of the city. Its 
wailing echo resounded through the neighboring Pro- 
vinces ; at the extremity of the Federal States ; and be- 
yond the waves of the Atlantic. Wherever its suppli- 
cating voice was heard, its prayer was granted. Never 
was sympathy more active — never did human benevo- 
lence appear more amiable The queen of the virtues, 
arrayed in the exalted insignia of her Samaritan embas- 
sy, came with the eagle's rapidity to relieve us. Her 
bosom throbbed with pity; philanthropy filled her heart; 
and while by her holy ministry, she fed the hungry, 
clothed the naked, and sheltered the homeless, the fer- 
vour of her benignity melted down, all the petty dis- 
tinctions of country and of sect. 

Although it be impossible to enumerate the multiplied 
instances of individual charity, I could, easily select a 
few particular cases, were it not, that I esteem the vir- 
tue too highly, to depreciate it by elevating eulogy into 
its recompense . 

As the anniversary of this calamity is religiously com- 



NORTHUMBERLAND. SI 

memorated ; and as every thing connected with it is 

" Written in hearts that have suffered too much to forget," 

any farther remarks from me, would be like go- 
ing to the waters of Babylon to weep. Be it enough 
then, to add, that every ameliorating measure which 
prudence and sympathy would suggest, were here 
promptly adopted and liberally dispensed ; and that the 
paternal Governor, who had witnessed our prosperity, 
came to alleviate our misery. When we consider Sir 
Howard's conduct on this occasion : — his anxiety, his 
solicitude, and his zealous endeavours, under the most 
embarrassing circumstances, to mitigate the present dis- 
tress, and promote the future prosperity of the coun- 
try, the fervent prayer that he may never know sor- 
row or affliction, gushes warmly and spontaneously from 
the heart. 

The following statements exhibit an account of the 
lives lost ; the property consumed ; the contributions 
received ; how they were disposed of ; the number of 
persons relieved ; and a classification thereof. 

PERSONS BURNT AND DROWNED, 160 

BUILDINGS DESTROYED, 595 

HEAD OF CATTLE DESTROYED, 875 

Loss of Property estimated £204,323 

Of which was insured 12,050 



Net loss £192,273 



Value of Provisions, Clothing and other stores, received from 

different parts of Nova-Scotia : 
From HALIFAX 2,567 18 

LUNENBURG 378 3 

PICTOU 350 

11 



89 



COUNTY OF 



ANTIGONISH 

YARMOUTH 

AMHERST 



100 
70 
35 









3,501 1 





From different parts of New Brunswick ; 








City of ST. JOHN, 


£4,300 










ST. ANDREWS, 


350 





9 




RICHIBUCTO, 


103 


11 


8 




SHEDIAC, 


50 










BAT HURST, 


40 










MIRAMICHI, 


603 
















5,446 11 


S 




8,947 12 


8 


From THE UNITED STATES, 




693 7 


4 


THE CAN ADAS* 






5,334 4 


7 


NEWFOUNDLAND, 






700 





PRINCE EDWARD'S ISLAND, 




170 






£15,845 4 7 



CASH SUBSCRIPTIONS. 

\ , 

From NOVA-SCOTIA 863 15 

NEW BRUNSWICK 266 17 8 
GREAT BRITAIN 2,941 2 9 



UNITED STATES 
and other places 



17,779 8 11 



21,851 4 4 



£37,696 8 11 
There were also collected at ") 

GLASGOW, BRISTOL, N. SHIELDS/ . aao 1Q ,, 
and SUNDERLAND, and accounted forf 
to the Committees in these pl'aces 



*Tbi§ includes a Legislative grant of £2,500 from Lower Canada. 



NORTHUMBERLAND. 



63 





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S4 COUNTY OF 

CLASSIFICA TJON adopted in the preceding Abstract. 



Class. 



First. 


WOUNDED, AGED, and INFIRM MEN. 


Second. 


ORPHANS, WIDOWS, and SINGLE WOMEN. 


Third. 


FARMERS. 


Fourth. 


LUMBERERS. 


Fifth. 


MECHANICS. 


Sixth. 


LABOURERS. 


Seventh 


INNKEEPERS. 


Eighth. 


PROFESSIONAL MEN. 


Ninth. 


MERCHANTS and TRADERS, 



NORTHUMBERLAND. 



85 



X 


iT. 


3TS 




ds 


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WQDh 




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PH 










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09 


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35 










63 










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C * "* TO *-' °* 


1—1 






6 

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to 

a 


of 


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3 * * 




amouut paid the Sufferers, (page 8 
ndry accouuts incurred by the boai 

of relief, (see page 00) 
id for 100 barrels Mackeral* 
eight per sundry resseli 
otage for do. 

bour discharging and pitting potato* 
id for boards for Ludlow sufferers* 
id for boards from Antigonishe* 
id for Hay Seed* 

penses conveying spceie from St. J 
atuities to Medical Gentlemen for a 


2 8 °.3i 5J£*g.S g 

&.c *? tn i« c .- ,3 

* O O M o O !-, OS 




S« 




H fe m>3 4$ ft fe W0 





66 COUNTY OF 

The following gentlemen composed the Local Com- 
mittee, for the distribution of relief, and the manage- 
ment of all other business connected with the Fire : — 

ALEXANDER RANKIN, THOMAS C. ALLAN, 
JOHN FRASER, WILLIAM ABRAMS, 

THOMAS II. PETERS, FRANCIS PEABODY, 

JOHN A. STREET, ALEX. FRASER, Jun. 

CHRISTOPHER CLARKE, JOHN CLARK, 
JOSEPH CUNARD, R. BLACKSTOCK, 

WILLIAM JOPLIN. 

Perhaps the principal sufferers in this calamity were 
Messrs. Gilmour, Rankin & Co. and William Abrams & 
Co. The extensive warehouses of the former, with 
neariy all they contained, were consumed; while every 
thing belonging to the latter, as well as two large ves- 
sels on the stocks, were literally swept away. Three 
ships loading in the river, the Concord, Canada, and 
Jane, were also burnt ; and it grieves us to believe, 
that there has been a greater sacrifice of both life and 
property, than even the rigid enquiries of the committee 
have been able to ascertain. 

Some are disposed to attribute this calamity to super- 
human agency ; while others, with pious horror, unhe- 
sitatingly pronounce it to have been, " A Judgment jrom 
God." Now, although I entertain the most profound 
respect for these two classes of opinionists, I beg leave 
to differ with them both ; and therefore do I now, by 
recording my dissent, adopt the belief of those who 
ascribe it to natural and familiar causes. But what have 



NORTHUMBERLAND. 87 

we to do with analytical investigations, who have' an 
infinitely higher duty to perform, than either the anato- 
my of syllogisms, or the solution of problems. Pseudo 
Philosophers may wrangle about the causes of the fire ; 
but we, who both saw and felt its effects, use this op- 
portunity, as well to bow down before the inscrutable 
wisdom that permitted the visitation, as to adore the 
Almighty power that sustained us under it. 

Let us now relieve the mind, by turning from the 
consideration of past misfortunes, to the contemplation 
of present enjoyments. The only lingering traces of 
the ruin now visible, are the leafless trees, and they at 
once serve for an admonition and a memorial, while, by 
contrast, they heighten the natural beauties of increas- 
ing cultivation. A great deal of the scorched and burnt 
land, saved by the timely application of grass seeds, 
and other semenal reclaimants, is re-invested with a 
smiling sward. Newcastle, like a Phenix, has risen 
from its ashes ; and now blossoms over its original site 
with renewed beauty. A larger, as well as handsomer 
Douglastown, has emerged from the ruins of the old 
one ; and Moorfields, Bartibog, Nappan, &c. also display 
an equal share of the general renovation. Thezealand 
perseverance of the people have triumphed over the 
influence of debilitating casualties ; and under the guid- 
ance of prudence, a resuscitated enterprize has sprung 
from the late depression of trade. A salutary variety 
has invigorated our commerce ; and the sphere of our 
manufacture has been enlarged by the erection of Saw 

Mills. Agriculture is rapidly advancing ; every day ex- 



58 COUNTY OF 

tends the diffusion of its benignity ; and while, by the e** 
ercise of its embellishing and provident genius, it labors 
to reclaim the wilderness, clothe the soil with verdure, 
and provide a granary for future exigency, it also mildly 
reproves us for our former negligence. 

The following list of the Representatives of the Coun- 
ty, whose early history, and prominent vicissitudes, I 
have endeavoured to trace, closes this Chapter. 

Names of the members by whom the County of Nor- 
thumberland, has been represented in general Assembly, 
since its formation, together with the dates and occa- 
sions of the different elections, &c. — 

First Returned. — Elias Hardy, and Win. Davidson. 

1791 } ELIAS HARDY, & HARRIS, W. Hailes, vice Da- 
March J vidson, deceased. 

1793 ) General Election.— JOHN BLACK, and WARD 
Jany. j CHIPMAN. 

1795 ) Dissolution of the 'House.— JAMES FRASER, and 
Oct. j SAMUEL LEE. 

1802 \ General Election.— JAMES FRASER, and ALEX- 
Oct. f ANDER TAYLOR. 

1809 > Gmeral Election.— JAMES FRASER, and ALEX- 
Oct. f ANDER TAYLOR. 

1816 ) General Election.— JAMES FRASER, and RICH- 
Sept. ) ARDSIMONDS. 

") RICHARD SIMONDS, and 
1819 \ Death of his Majesty f JOSEPH SAUNDERS, vice 
Jany. J King George III. (JAMES FRASER, promoted 

J to H. M C. of Nova Scoia. 

1820. RICHARD SIMONDS, and HUGH MUNRO, 



NORTHUMBERLAND. 



June f RANKIN. 

lft9Q ) ALEX. RANKIN, and JOSEPH CUxNARD, vice R. 
1»*J v SIM oNDS, appointed Provincial Treasurer. 

1830 > Death of His Majesty ) ALEXANDER RANKIN & 
Oct f King George IV. f JOSEPH CUNARD. 



12 



CHAPTER VI. 



TRADE AND REVENUE. 

General Abstract of the Trade of this County in the 
years 1828, — 29, and — 30 ; — the amount of Imperial and 
Provincial Revenue collected during that period ; and the 
Register Tonnage belonging to the Port of Miramichi, at the 
conclusion of each year, 

1828. 
BRITISH VESSELS INWARDS. 





No. 


Tons. 


Men. 


From the United Kingdom, 


221 


68,790 


3,062 


From British North America, 


168 


12,641 


729 


Foreign Europe, 


1 


365 


11 


United Statei, 


3 


917 


38 



393 82,713 3,840 



NORTHUMBERLAND. 91 

IMPORTS. 

Sterling* 
From the United Kingdom, £68,846 

From the British North American Colonies, 51,797 



£120,643 



BRITISH VESSELS OUTWARDS. 

No. Tons. 

To the United Kingdom, 245 

To the British West Indies, 2 

To the British North A. Colonies, 120 



75,365 
339 



5,469 



Men. 

3,363 

19 

355 



367 81,173 3,737 



i; EXPORTS. 

To the United Kingdom, 

To the British North American Colonies, 



Sterling. 

£108,159 

10,150 

£118,309 



STAPLE ARTICLES EXPORTED. 



Boards, 
Deals, 
Shingles, 
Dry Fish, 
Do. Do. 



Timber, 114,458 Tons. 
Lathwood, 2,420 Cords. 
Oars, 2,415 Pieces. 

Handspikes, 904 Pieces. 
Staves, 334,331 Pieces. 
Spars, 1,827 Pieces. 
Masts, 35 Pieces. 

— oo — 
1829. 
BRITISH VESSELS INWARDS. 
No. Tons. 
From the United Kingdom, 154 49,861 

From British North America, 182 12,122 



789 M. Feet. 
1,703 M. Feet. 
1,229 M. 
200 Quintals. 
7 Boxes. 
Pickled Fish, 489 Barrels. 
Do. Do. 104 Hhds. 



Men. 

2,223 

713 



92 COUNTY 


OF 






No. 


Tons. Men. 


From Foreign Europe, 


1 


241 10 


From the United States, 


1 

338 


280 13 




62,504 2,959 


IMPORTS. 








Sterling. 


From the United Kingdom, 




£59,210 


From the British North America 


n Colonies 


, 56,867 




£116,077 



BRITISH VESSELS OUTWARDS. 

No. Ton?. 



Men. 



To the United Kingdom, 


178 


56,071 2,503 


To the British West Indies, 


7 


754 43 


To British North America, 


129 
314 


5,956 403 




62,781 2,949 


EXPORTS. 


Sterling. 


To the United Kingdom, 




£101,263 


To the British North American Colonies, 


6,987 


To the British West Indies, 




• 4,888 



£113,138 
STAPLE ARTICLES EXPORTED. 



Timber, 83,807 Tons. 

Lathwood, 1,775 Cords. 

Oars, 1,185 Pieces. 
Handspikes, 489 Pieces. 

Billets, 27,819 Do. 

Spars, 1,327 Do. 

Staves, 51,678 Do. 
Boards, 
Deals, 



Shingles, 559 M. 
Furs, 4 Chests. 

Alewives, 2,115 Barrels. 
Herrings, 375 Do. 
Mackarel, 400 Do. 
Salmon, 565 Do. 
Cod fish, 2,845 Quintals. 
450 M. Feet. Herrings, 194 Boxes. 
1,563 M. Feet. 



NORTHUMBERLAND. 



9S 



1830. 



BRITISH VESSELS INWARDS 





No. 


Tons. 


Men. 


From the United Kingdom, 


196 


64,226 


2,936 


From the British West Indies, 


3 


653 


31 


From British North America, 


173 


12,486 


895 


From Foreign Europe, 


1 


194 


9 


From the United States, 


2 


833 


40 



375 78,392 3,911 



IMPORTS. 

From the United Kingdom, 
From the British N. A. Colonies, 
From the British West Indies, 



Sterling. 

£57,287 

58,421 

3,482 

£119,190 



BRITISH VESSELS OUTWARDS. 





No. 


Tons. Men. 


To the United Kingdom, 


216 


69,877 3,070 


To the British West Indies, 


3 


418 24 


To British North America, 


140 
359 


6,579 418 




76,874 3,512 


EXPORTS. 








Sterling. 


To the United Kingdom, 




£118,743 


To the British N. A. Colonies, 




6,934 


To the British West Indies, 




2,999 



128,676 



COUNTY OF 
STAPLE AR TICLES EXP OR TED. 



Timber, 


102,998 Tons 


Boards 


554 M. Feet 


Lathwood, 


2,272 Cords 


Deals, 


2,607 M. Feet 


Firewood, 


40 Cords 


Shingles, 


750 M. 


Oars, 


1,254 Pieces 


Furs, 


1 Hhd. 


Handspikes, 


684 Pieces 


Alewives, 


3,092 Barrels. 


Billets, 


37,060 do 


Salmon, 


566 do 


Spars, 


764 do 


Codfish, 


2,093 Quintals 


Staves, 


96,660 do 







Imperial Revenue, collected under Statutes of the British 
Parliament. 

1828.— By Acts prior to 18. Geo. Ill, 31 18 9 
Subsequent to l6, Geo. 111. 1702 10 

1733 19 7 
1829.— Prior to 18, Geo. III. 36 9 3 



Subsequent to 18, Geo. III. 1470 2 7 



1506 11 10 



1830.— Do. Do. 
Do. Do. 



40 13 5 
1203 7 ? 



1,244 8 

4,484 12 1 
Ex. 498 5 9 

Total Imperial Revenue, £4,982 17 10 

Provincial Revenue, collected under Acts of the General 
Assembly. 

1828, £4,109 14 

1829, 4,703 7 6 
1830, 



Total Revenue for 3 years 



5,240 


7 


4 


14,143 


8 




• 






10 


tars, 


£19,126 


6 


3 



NORTHUMBERLAND. 95 

Articles subject to Provincial duty for th* year 1831. 
Rum and Whiskey, Is. Od. per Gallon. 



Cordials, 


1 





per Gallon. 


Brandy and Gin, 


1 


6 


per Gallon. 


Wine in Bottle, 


1 


3 


per Gallon. 


Do. not in Bottle, 


1 


6 


per Gallon. 


Brown Sugar, 


2 


6 


per Cwt. 


Molasses and Coffee, 





1 


per lb, 



00' — 

Ad Valorem duty on Foreign Goods. 

Household Furniture, 25 per Cent. 

Soap, Candles, and Bread, 10 per do. 

Tobacco, 15 per do. 

Non-enumerated Articles, 10 per do. 

— oo — 

These rates are fixed by the Legislature in their An- 
nual Revenue Bill ; are the same throughout the Pro- 
vince ; and are liable, in each Session, to be either 
increased or reduced, as the exigencies of the Country 
may require or justify. 

PORT CHARGES IN MIRAMICHI. 

All vessels over one hundred Tons Register, pay as 

follows : — 

For the Seamen's Hospital, <£0 2 per Ton. 

For the Buoys and Beacons, 1-2 per Ton. 

For the Harbour Master, 10 each vessel. 

All Coasters and Vessels under One Hundred Tons Regis- 
ter are subject to the following rates : 

For the Seal's Hospita., *0 2 { ^each^ 

B UOy , and Beacons, 1* { X^JSgS. 

Harbour Master * 5 each Vessel. 

* Coa«ters are exempt from thil charge. 



96 COUNTY OF 

Vessels Registered at, and belonging to the Port of Mira- 
michi, in each year respectively. 





00— 






No. 




Tons. 


Men. 


1828. 13 




1,615 


99 


1829. 29 




2,978 


179 


1830. 32 




2,709 


156 




00 — 




Vesbels built in Miramichi, within the last Ten years 


Builders. 


No. 


Tonnage. 


Supposed vai 


Francis Peabody & Co. 


5 


1,594 


15,940 


William Abrams &- Co. 


12 


3,457 


34,570 


Messrs. Fraser & Co. 


8 


1,899 


18,990 


Messrs. Fiddes & Co. 


4 


878 


8,780 


Alexander Davidson 


1 


380 


3,800 


Joseph Russell 


1 


387 


3,870 


Messrs. Alexander, 


2 


340 


3,400 


Gilles & Thompson 


1 


250 


2,500 


Thomas Smith, 


2 


562 


5,620 



36 9,747 97,470 

The foregoing tables exhibit both our Trade and Re- 
venue, for the last three years, in rather a favourable 
and healthy condition. According to them, a steady 
and decided improvement has distinguished both branch- 
es. We find the Revenue of 1828, exceeded by that 
of 1829, in the sum of £603 13 5 1-2 ; while that of the 
latter, is outreached in the following year, by a further 
surplus of ,£536 19 11 : making a total increase in 
these three years, of £1,140 13 4 1-2. 



NORTHUMBERLAND. 97 

We also perceive that our gross Imports for the above 
period amounted to currency. 

£395,455 11 1 

While our Exports for the same > 40Q 136 j 3 4 
time are reckoned at \ 



Leaving a balance in favour of > « , «g ^ 2 3 
the Country of j ■ > ~ 

This favourable state of our Trade may be ascribed 
to the wholesome restraints which circumstances had 
imposed upon it. 

For some time before the Fire, the Timber Trade was 
prosecuted to an unreasonable extent ; and hence, in 
the same degree as the British Market became surfeited 
with our commodity, did it gradually decline from a non 
remunerative, to a losing price. Another prominent 
evil in our system was, we gave unlimited and indiscri- 
minate credit, affording supplies without measuring 
their amount, or considering the character or standing 
of the person to whom we gave them. 

All the capital the Lumberer required, was the faculty 
of lying. Could he unblushingly tell a plausible story, 
assuring the Merchant that he had found " A capi- 
tal chance, or a Eine grove," taking care at the same 
time, minutely to calculate the number of large trees ei- 
ther contained, extensive credit was obtained without 
further ceremony. But that is not all ; so exceedingly 
fascinating had lumbering become, that I have known 
some instances, where the report of a discovered chance 

13 



93 COUNTY OF 

or grove, created so brisk a canvass among the merchants, 
that it placed the fortunate discoverer, in the same situ- 
ation as a voter at a contested election. 

It being thus easy to obtain not only all the necessa- 
ries of life, but even some of its luxuries, " Master Lum- 
berers" multiplied with astonishing fecundity ; and 
hence the woods became swarmed with a variety of 
men, whose habits and professions essentially disquali- 
fied them for the pursuit in which they engaged. The 
Farmer abandoned the Plough, the Cobler abjured the 
Lapstone, the Tailor left the Shopboard, and the Fisher- 
man flung away his Net. All joined in a general crusade 
against the forests. 

What was the result of this combination of deception 
and enthusiasm ? In many instances, " The capital 
chances and fine Groves" turned out to have the same 
ideal existence as Mermaids and Unicorns ; while 
in other cases, the timber was often so inferior, and so 
badly manufactured, that the merchant could not ship 
it, except on his own account, a proceeding which only 
increased his original loss, and injured his character. 

Since the Fire, however, things have been better ma- 
naged. That calamity, associated with other incidents, 
forced a reformation upon us ; and the general stagna- 
tion which prevailed in Great Britain, during the years 
1826, and 1827, communicating itself to us, it became 
both unavoidable and necessary that credit should be 
restricted. This of course, was followed by a diminu- 



NORTHUMBERLAND. 99 

tion of business, which effectually cut off the supera- 
bundant Lumberers, as well as many other excrescen- 
ces that had so long disfigured and encumbered our in^ 
dustry. 

The merchants, having learned wisdom from expe- 
rience, have become very particular in giving' credit ; 
and hence, the manufacturing department is now con- 
ducted by men, who being thoroughly conversant with 
their business, and holders of property besides, are as 
deeply interested as either the shipper, or importer. 
For these reasons, although our timber trade is rather 
limited at present, (comparatively speaking,) it is less 
fluctuating and more profitable, because the market is 
supplied with an article of better quality, while the 
quantity rarely exceeds the demand. 

In looking over these tables, what we have chiefly to 
regret is, that a larger quantity of Fish does not appear 
in our exports ; but even in this particular there has 
been a gradual improvement. 

In 1S24, when our trade was at its greatest extent, 
we only exported :— 

Of Alewives, 580 Barrels. 

— Dry Fish, 263 Quintals. 

— Herrings, 70 Boxes. 

Now, contrasting this with our shipments in 1830, 
supposing the prices of both years to have been the same, 



100 COUNTY OF 

we find that in the former year, we received from our 

Fisheries, *658 10 

"While in the latter, we derived from > 5 440 j Q 
the same source, ) ' 



Leaving a balance to the credit of the ) ,,, - co A A 
Fisheries, in 1830, of 1 * 4 ' 782 ° ° 

As both our sea and river Fisheries, are generally- 
very productive, we hope they will be more.extensively 
cultivated ; and that their fruits, as well as those of the 
earth, shall, at no very remote period, occupy a respect- 
able station in our catalogue of exports. 



CHAPTER VII. 



Ji General description of the Miramichi ; and oj the Towns 
and Settlements thereon. 



Having, in the preceding Chapters, detailed all the in- 
formation I could, respecting the rise and progress of 
this county, it now remains for me to describe, as ac- 
curately as I can, its present appearance, state, and con- 
dition. On these three heads I shall speak from a 
knowledge acquired by close observation, during a resi- 
dence of seven years. 

The Miramichi, or Happy Retreat, is the principal 
river in the county, and one of the largest and most im- 
portant in the whole Province. In the Micmac lan- 
guage, the diminutive noun is formed by the addition of 



102 COUNTY OF 

sis ; and hence was this river formerly called Restigou- 
chesis, in contra-distinction to the Restigouche, a some- 
what larger river. 

It rises in a Lake, a short distance from the Tobique, 
a river bathing the un-improved, and almost unknown 
lands of the County of York. Its computed length is 
220 miles, flowing pretty equably, but with considerable 
rapidity, over a shingly and somewhat rocky bed ; and 
describing an Easterly course, until it rolls into the Gulf 
through a large ^nd beautiful Bay, in Latitude 47° 5 
N. and Longitude 64 ° 53, W. 

In its descent this river acquires considerable impe- 
tus, as well as a multiformity of shapes, owing to the 
numerous subsidized tributaries and streams that dis- 
charge into it. Leaving these secondary rivers for the 
present, I shall confine my remarks to the main one ; 
attending afterwards, to such of its branches, as seem 
to deserve particular description. 

In the immediate vicinity of its source, are three or 
four Lakes ; and there, as well as for several miles 
lower down, lias it a very bold and primitive aspect. — 
Here, the stream is rather dark and turbid ; overhung 
by projections ; and canopied by deflectent Alders. For 
a considerable distance on both sides, the land appears 
to be a compositive structure, formed possibly, by the 
bursting of Lakes, or by an extensive disintegration, 
produced by atmospheric agency. It is abrupt, broken, 
and mountainous, having at its base large belts of in- 



NORTHUMBERLAND. 103 

tervale ; and in the interior, an interspersion of wild 
Meadows, Maple Groves, and Pineries. 

About 90 miles from its head, it becomes considera- 
bly developed by a gradual expansion ; and by the con- 
tributions of a variety of undistinguished rivulets, flow- 
ing through exceedingly rich land. Ten or twelve miles 
lower down, it receives Porter's Brook, a small river, 
now the most remote settlement from the Coast ; and on 
which there is a Saw Mill. About an equal distance 
below this, it absorbs two other rivers, the Taxis, and 
the Burnt Land Brook ; and here it is connected by a 
Portage of 23 miles, with the Nashwaak, a river dis- 
charging into the St. John, a little above Fredericton. 

From this down to the coast, a distance of 108, or 
110, miles, each side of the river may be considered 
one continual settlement, both presenting two uninter- 
rupted lines of cultivated land, of about a quarter of a 
mile in breadth, and fringed by seemingly intermina- 
ble forests. The land is generally level, but not low ; 
and may, except within a short distance of the immedi- 
ate Sea Board, be termed a mean between height and 
depression. This space comprises three different kinds 
of soil : the first, embracing nearly forty miles, is very 
rich, the elevated part being a mixture of clay and 
gravel, well wooded, and considerably enriched by 
alluvial deposits. The second, about fifty miles in 
length, is a good upland, clothed with a friable, but 
'deep and fertile surface ; and the third, extending about 
eighteen, or twenty miles, until it clips into the sea, 



104 COUNTY OF 

although of rather a light and sandy description, gene- 
rally yields a fair average crop. In the first and second 
district, the rear, or wilderness land, is pretty thickly 
covered with Pine Groves, and all the difFerent kinds of 
hardwood, disposed generally, in alternate ridges ; the 
growth of the third consists principally of cedar, spruce, 
and fir. 

Having said this much, in order to afford some idea 
of the source, length, and general features of the Mira- 
michi, we shall now invert our route, commencing at its 
entrance, and noticing as we proceed, whatever is wor- 
thy of remark. 

The mouth of the Miramichi, lies between a low 
curved beach on the north side ; and a sandy Shoal, 
called Point Eseuminac, on the south. This shoal, as 
its Indian name implies, extends nearly three miles into 
the sea ; while the opposite beach, stretching towards 
Taboointac, also protrudes to a considerable extent. 
The distance across here is nine miles'; but the ship 
entrance is on the south side, round Eseuminac, and 
thence up between Portage and Fox Islands, where 
there is a good channel of three miles in width, and va- 
rying from 5 to 7 and 8 fathoms in depth. 

Thence upwards to where the banks of the river con- 
verge, as it were, by the approximation of two opposite 
projections, Oak Point, and Point Cheval, may be consi- 
dered a spacious Bay of 14 miles long and 9 miles wide, 
over which are dispersed seven or eight tolerably 



NORTHUMBERLAND. 105 

large Islands. From the number of small shoals and 
flats scattered through the Bay, it may be inferred that 
these Insula have been formed by the rise and fall of 
the tide, or by the reciprocation of the sea and river 
currents. Most of them yield an annual crop of wild 
hay ; others are the ordinary rendezvous of aquatic 
fowl ; but the principal one for both size and fertility, 
is called Baie des Vents Island, on the south side of which 
there is an- excellent harbor, having good anchorage in 
three and four fathoms. 

Round the Bay are several small settlements, inhabit- 
ed chiefly by Acadian French, who employ their time in 
Agriculture and Fishing ; and on the north side, a short 
distance within its entrance, is the harbour of Negu- 
waak, where, though ships sometimes load, there is not 
much shelter. % 

At the two above points, (Oak Points, and Point Che- 
vol)) where the river may be said to commence, it is 
four miles wide, thence gradually and regularly tapering 
towards its head. The tide flows nearly forty miles, 
and is navigable for large vessels more than thirty, the 
channel to that extent, containing from 5 to 8 fathoms. 
Schooners and small craft can proceed some miles far- 
ther ; while scows, boats, and canoes, may go within a 
short distance of its source. 

On the north side, eight miles above Oak Point, is 

the extensive, and elegantly constructed Saw Mill, of 

Messrs. Gilmour, Rankin & Co. The building itself m 

14 



106 COUNTY OF 

composed of an excellent description of hard Freestone, 
very plentiful in the vicinity. The machinery is con- 
structed upon the most approved principles, and works 
twenty eight perpendicular saws, and two circular ones, 
cutting each day, upon an average, from 18,000 to 20,000 
feet, plank measure. 

This Mill, besides being eligibly seated on a good 
stream, possesses the additional advantage of lying so 
near the channel, that large vessels can load within 
pistol shot of it. The out offices and subordinate works, 
corresponding in their character and appearance with 
the principal, preserve a uniformity in detail, illustra- 
tive of the well arranged system upon which the whole 
has been formed. This establishment is supposed to 
have cost .£8,000, and is deservedly reckoned the most 
splendid of the kind in either Nova-Scotia, or New- 
Brunswick. 

In the centre of the river, and nearly opposite to the 
Mill, is a small but fertile Island, the owner of which has 
avowed his admiration of Cervantes, by facetiously 
calling it Barratarria.* For fear some of my reader* 
should be unable to account for this apparently romantic 
nomenclature, I hope the better informed ones will 
not be offended, if I observe, that Cervantes was a cele- 
brated Spanish novelist ; that in that capacity he wrote 
the history and adventures of a Redoubtable Knight- 
errant, whom he was pleased to call Don Quixote de la 
Mancha, and that he represented this hero as having 
conquered an Island of the above name, over which he 

• This Island is the property of Mr, A. D. Sheriff, and is commonly called 
Middle Island, ' 



NORTHUMBERLAND. 107 

appointed his trusty and well beloved Squire Sancho 
Panco. 



Our Barratarria contains about 20 acres of arable land ; 
and on the south side of the river, about two miles back, 
is a lake, so exactly corresponding with it, in length, 
breadth, and general configuration, that an enthusiast 
in geology, would be disposed to ascribe its present lo- 
cality to some of nature's freaks. Between the north 
side of this Island and the Mill, there is an excellent 
Gaspereaux and Salmon Fishery ; and on the south 
side, a large and commodious pond for holding timber. 

On the south side, about a mile and a half above this, 
is the town of Chatham. It is pleasantly situated upon 
a level plain that forms the termination of an easy and 
gentle declivity proceeding from the interior ; while it 
is also admirably adapted for shipping, as a deep chan- 
nel running closejnto the beach, enables the largest 
vessels to load at the wharfs. This town contains at 
present, eight mercantile establishments ; some hand- 
some shops ; a Printing Office, from which issues a 
weekly newspaper ; a well provided Reading Room, a 
Post Office, Market House, a Classical Seminary ; two 
Day Schools ; and one hundred and seventy dwelling 
Houses. 

At the east end of the town, is a very ingeniously de- 
vised horizontal Saw and Grist Mill, flanking a pictu- 
resque eminence, on which stands the Presbyterian 
Church of Saint Andrew ; and in the centre is a hand- 



106 COUNTY OF 

iome Wesley an Chapel, near which the Antiburghers 
have lately commenced building another place of wor- 
ship. The great Post Road leading to Halifax, com- 
mences at St. Andrew's Church, and proceeds in a south- 
erly direction for about forty miles, until it connects the 
Miramichi, and the Richibucto. This road contains 
some extensive tracts of good land ; is well watered by 
several rivers ; and affords the principal channel of in- 
ternal communication between the two provinces. The 
population of Chatham, may be rated at 900 souls. 

Two miles farther up, on the opposite side of the ri- 
ver, appears Douglastown, cresting the brow of a pro- 
minent and somewhat elevated projection. Notwith- 
standing that this settlement was all but destroyed by 
the Fire, it now contains Fifty four handsome dwelling 
houses, and some very neat shops. Here is one of the 
most extensive, as well as best conducted Day Schools 
in the Province ; also the Seamen's Hospital, a very 
elegant stone edifice, containing several comfortable 
wards ; and surmounted by a tastefully wrought cupo- 
la, reposing on Grecian Columns. 

The only resident merchants here, are Gilmour, Ran- 
kin fy Co. ; and to the influence and patronage of these 
gentlemen, may be ascribed, in a very eminent degree, 
the present improved state of the town, as well as the 
character and utility of the school. 

Douglastown enumerates 320 inhabitants, chiefly emi- 
grants from Dumfrieshire and different parts of the 



NORTHUMBERLAND. 109 

Clyde. They are almost exclusively Presbyterians ; 
and are no less distinguished for their attachment to the 
religion of their fathers, than they are for their regular 
attendance upon its ordinances. 

A short distance above Douglastown, is the Mercan- 
tile establishment and Ship Yard of William Abrams & 
Co. This place is well adapted for both the export 
trade and ship-building ; the land has an easy descent, 
and the channel almost washes the shore. A group of 
comfortable looking houses encompassing two large 
stores, give this establishment a village cast. 

After a pleasant walk of two miles upon an excellent 
road, leading through an extensive grove of sumach trees, 
Newcastle, the Shire town, and the handsomest settle- 
ment in the county, attracts your attention. When 
viewed from the river, this town presents a very agree- 
able prospect. Reposing at the foot and on the brow 
of a moderate acclivity , that spreads into an extensive 
and open plain ; and environed by a zone of cultivated 
land, tapestried by the foliage of the surrounding forest, 
it may be compared to a sort of amphitheatre, or col- 
lection of reliefs,' chastening and beautifying the wild 
magnificence of nature. 

Newcastle contains 12 Mercantile establishments ; % 
Public Sehools ; a Presbyterian Church ; and a Wes- 
leyan chapel. Here also are the County Court House, 
the Jail, and the Record Office ; besides 120 dwelling 
houses, occupied by a population of 800 souls. 



110 COUNTY OF 

All the houses have a very respectable appearance ; 
several of them are built of brick; and many of the 
wooden ones, furnish good specime ns of taste and in- 
genuity, while the square in the centre of the town ; 
the cluster of public buildings occupying the eminence 
behind it, and a range of wharfs extending from the 
beach to the channel, harmonize with the general dis- 
position of the streets. 

The post road leading to Fredericton, commences at 
this town, and proceeds along the south side of the 
river, about 70 miles, thence across the Portage, down 
the JNaashwaak, and' into the Saint John. It is also 
likely to receive another advantage from a new bye 
road, about to be opened between its- rear, and the 
head of the settlements on the north west ; while it is 
further distinguished by a third and still more important 
locality, arising from its connexion with the most cen- 
trical part of the Bale des Chaleurs, as well as with the 
capital of Lower Canada. A fine road of 54 miles, pro- 
ceeding from the east end of the town, thence down the 
river, and across the Bartibog, and several well bridged 
streams, conducts you to Bathurst, the Assizes town of 
Gloucester, from where a continuation is now being 
made to the Restigouche, and thence round the head 
of the Matepediac river, through Mitis, and into Quebec. 

On the south side, nearly opposite to Newcastle, is 
the village of Nelson. This is but a small hamlet con- 
taining a Roman Catholic Chapel, two Mercantile estab- 
lishments, a Parochial School, and 34 dwelling houses, 
with a population of 200 souls, chiefly Irish. 



NORTHUMBERLAND . Ill 

Abreast of the upper end of this settlement, lies Beau- 
bair's Island, on the east point of which, Messrs. James 
D. Fraser & Co. have their establishment. This is the 
oldest mercantile concern in the county, and was for 
many years, one of the most extensive in the whole pro- 
vince. 

The different spaces between these towns are filled 
up with farms and insulated stores, interlaced by some 
handsome villas, of which the seat of T. H. Peters, Esq. 
is the most splendid. 

Proceeding up the river, although there are some fine 
settlements, there is little requiring particular attention, 
till we come to where it is connected with the Naas- 
waak. 

Here, at the mouth of the Burnt Land Brook, already 
mentioned, has Mr. Thomas Boies, an active and enter- 
prising American, lately established a village, popularly 
called Boiestown, after its founder. This village con- 
sists of 23 or 24 distinct buildings, embracing two excel- 
lent Saw Mills ; a Grist Mill of the same character ; a 
large Forge with Trip hammers ; a Washing Mill ; a 
cold and Tepid Bath ; a day School and private Chapel ; 
a respectable Hotel ; two Ware Rooms ; and a requi- 
site number of Out Offices. All the houses are well 
finished and neatly painted in the different varieties of 
white, red, green, yellow, &c, and this diversity of 
colours, coupled with the essential difference of shapes 
and figures, imparts an external sprightliness to the 



112 COUNTY OF 

whole group, finely harmonizing with the animating 
symphony, proceeding from the various pursuits carried 
on within them. 

About ten years ago, Mr. Boies settled here : and at 
that time, the actual site of this minature Colony, as 
well as a large district of cultivated land that surrounds it, 
was in a wilderness state. The character of the change, 
therefore, no less than its rapidity, abundantly prove, 
that in the formation of so extensive and complicated 
an establishment, n a considerable degree of ingenuity 
and zeal must have been employed. The standing po- 
pulation of Boiestown may be estimated at 120 souls, 
principally adults from the United States. 



RELIGIOUS INSTITUTIONS OF MIRAMICHI 



As the different religious establishments are widely 
dispersed ; indeed some of them occupying places, 
where they constitute the only depictable feature, I 
thought it advisable, previously to any notice of the 
tributary rivers, to group them in one general descrip- 
tion. Proceeding then, in the same order as we have ob- 
served with the settlements, we find three small Ro- 
man Catholic Chapels, one Episcopalian, and one Pres- 
byterian distributed through the Bay. 

At Moody's Point, there is another Chapel of the first 
denomination, and at the east end of Chatham, a Pres- 



NORTHUMBERLAND . 1 IS 

byterian Church, dedicated to Saint Andrew. This is 
a large and plain edifice, having a neat Steeple with an 
inserted belfry ; and is capable of containing about 
800 persons. In the centre of the settlement, there is 
also a very handsome Wesleyan Chapel, commensurate- 
ly large, with the accomodation of 600. It is a well 
finished structure of the modern kind ; the lower part 
containing two ranges of pews, reposing under a quint- 
agonal gallery neatly embossed, and resting on crowned 
pillars. The entrance is a well designed portico sus- 
tained by Grecian columns, and enclosing a double ves- 
tibule. 

Three miles higher up is the Episcopal Church of St. 
Paul, a very elegant structure of the Gothic order, sur- 
mounted by a wrought tower and castellated turrets. 
This church was the first of the established religion, 
ever built in this county ; as is also the Rev. Samuel 
Bacon, who has been its Rector for the last ten years, 
the first Missionary ever sent hither by the Society for 
propagating the Gospel. 

The Presbyterian Church of Saint James, at Newcas- 
tle, is one of the most graceful and elegant specimens 
of architecture in the whole province. Though there is 
in all its arrangements, both within and without a chas- 
tity of design, and a fidelity of execution ; it is in the en- 
trance and the spire, that the skill of the artist is more 
eminently displayed. The former is a beautiful speci- 
men of the modern, harmonizing with Grecian Pillars 

in Mo Relievo ; and the latter is a correct elevation, com- 

14 



114 COUNTY OF 

bining a fine union of the Doric, Tuscan, and Ionic, 
This church can accomodate about 600 hearers ; — the 
Wesleyan one, in the same town, is a plain, but neatly 
finished edifice, capable of holding upwards of 200. 

The Roman Catholic Chapel, at Nelson, is a build- 
ing, which for excellence of materials and permanence 
of construction, is, to say the least, equal to any we 
have. It accomodates a congregation of more than 000 
persons ; and embraces in its general architecture, an 
agreeable connexion of the Gothic and the Modern. 
All the Roman Catholic churches on this river, are sup- 
plied by the Rev. Mr. Dollard, a zealous and pious mis- 
sionary, under the Jurisdiction of the Bishop of Rosen.* 

At Beaubair's Point, there is another convenient 
Presbyterian church associated with the one at New- 
castle ; and up the north-west, a branch, of which we 
shall speak presently, theie is a Baptist Chapel of some 
years standing, besides a Roman Catholic one in pro- 
gressive erection. 



*Rosen, a town of ancient Palestine, was formerly a Bishop 1 s 
See, and is now the legitimate source whence the Rt. Rev. Dr. 
JUcEachern, of Prince Edward's Island, derives his Episco- 
pal dignity This method of conferring the mitre on English 
Roman Catholic Prelates, is the effect of a penal statute, prohi- 
biting the assumption of Diocesian titles, by any other than 
ecclesiastics of the established church ; and hence it is, that dig- 
nitaries of this kind, are, by the law of England, denominated 
i( Titular Bishops, or Vicars Apostolic," while by the canons 
of their own church, they are styled ' Episcopi in partibus infi- 
delium" or Bishops among the Infidels. 

They are thus constituted for the spiritual advantage of the 
Catholics among whom they reside ; and over them do they exer- 
cise the pastoral sway of Episcopal Jurisdiction without viola- 
ting the law that contemplated its abolition. 



NORTHUMBERLAND. 115 

On this head we may conclude our remarks by sta- 
ting, — that all these places of public worship have been 
erected by general and voluntary subscription ; that 
they are respectably and numerously attended ; that 
they are associated with an equal number of Sabbath 
Schools ; that they are supplied by clergymen whose 
zeal and ability would sustain an honorable competition 
with any of the same number and assortment through- 
out the Colonies ; and that the evidences of their use- 
fulness are observable in the improved and improving 
condition of both old and young. 

The other public buildings not particularized are, the 
English Rectory ; the county Grammar School ; the 
Custom House ; and the Treasury Office. 



CHAPTER VIII 



Mn account of the different rivers discharging into the Mirarni- 
chi ; also, a description oj the Taboointac, with an estimate 
of the population oj the County, and the number and value 
of the Saw and Grist Mils contained therein. 



Passing over a number of small streams in the vicini- 
ty of the coast, we arrive at Baie des Vents, and Black 
rivers, both of which rise in barrens a short distance 
from the Richibucto, and after running nearly parallel 
courses, fall into the bay, upon the north side. The 
computed length of the first is 28 miles ; that of the se- 
cond 18. On the former there is an excellent Saw Mill, 
and a day School ; besides 24 families employed in lum- 
bering and agriculture. The latter contains a grist 



NORTHUMBERLAND. 1 n 

Mill, and two Schools ; and is inhabited by sixty Scotch 
families engaged in husbandry. 

Nappan River, proceeds from wild meadows in the 
rear of Nelson village; and after tracing an easterly 
course of sixteen miles, disembogues a short distance 
above the two former. 

Although this settlement suffered very severely by 
the Fire, the perseverance of the people, and their stea- 
dy attention to agriculture, have enabled them to over 
come the calamity. It now presents a very pleasing 
and cheerful appearance. The soil has rallied un- 
der judicious treatment ; abetter description of houses 
occupy the place of their predecessors ; more conveni- 
ent roads have been formed ; and the renewed industry 
of the inhabitants, as well as the occasion that required 
it, may be recognized in the characters of a general re- 
novation. The Post Road to Halifax, crosses this river 
a short distance above the head of the tide, where it is 
only three miles from Chatham, a circumstance which 
affords the settlers a ready market for a great portion of 
their surplus stock. 

The Nappan contains two schools, and two Grist 
Mills ; and on it reside 340 souls, principally Scotch 
emigrants and their descendants. 

Bartibog" River. — This river issues from high lands 
near the Wild Cat Brook, in the north-west ; is about 
28 miles long ; and runs into the Miramichi at Moody's 



118 COUNTY OF 

Point. It receives a number of subsidiaries, the chief 
of which are Green River, and the little Bartibog ; the 
former rising near the N. W. Mill Stream ; the latter 
proceeding from two large barrens in the rear of New- 
castle. 

Upon the main river, specimens of coal have been 
found in a variety of places ; and on the two mentioned 
branches, particularly Green River, are unequivocal in- 
dications of metallic ores. 

Before the fire, this river was well timbered with 
groves of pine, and parallel ridges of hardwood ; but 
now the whole interior exhibits a frightful and desolate 
appearance, commemorative of the event that occasion- 
ed the transformation. What was formerly liveried in 
green, and attired in foliage, is now a barren and mise- 
rable heath. The stately pine, the tall birch, and the 
graceful elm, are no longer visible, for the poplar, the 
wild cherry, and a variety of degenerate scrubs occupy 
their place. Where such a succession has not occurred, 
the intrusion of this dwarfish growth, is either opposed 
or retarded, by large entangled groups of dead, and fallen, 
and discolored trees ; some standing in gaunt deformity, 
their scorched and naked trunks, as well as leafless 
branches, mocked by every wind ; others bowed down 
as if imploring resuscitation from the sun ; and some 
prostrate on the ground from which they sprung. In 
short, this extensive district presents a picture so deso- 
late, so black, and so gloomy, that disorder and confu- 
sion are the only animating tints in the portrait. 






NORTHUMBERLAND. 1 19 

Twenty three Irish families, engaged in Agriculture, 
reside on this river, and derive considerable advantage 
from two good Grist Mills eligibly situated upon it. 

The North West, formerly called the Minagua, flows 
into the Miramichi, about a mile and a half above New- 
castle. This river rises in high lands bordering on the 
East side of the Nipisiguit, with which it is connected 
by a short portage leading to the Falls. It runs over 
a calcareous and rather rocky formation ; is supposed 
to be more than 90 miles long ; and receives in its course 
several large tributaries, of which the most distinguish- 
ed are, the Little River, the Tomoggonips, Portage Ri- 
ver, the Great and Little Sewogle, and the Little South 
West. Most of these rivers proceed from Lakes ; and 
all of them are considerable streams tolerably well tim- 
bered, and navigable for light canoes during the sum- 
mer months. 

The tide flows nearly sixteen miles, and is navigable 
for vessels of 15 feet draught, more than one third of 
that distance, while schooners of 60 or 70 tons, may pro-, 
ceed with safety eight miles higher. 

In the tide way, and for some distance above it, there 
are large tracts of very rich intervale ; and to this ex- 
tent the land is finely developed, and in close keeping 
with the size of the stream ; but thence upwards, 
as the latter narrows, the other becomes abrupt and ir- 
regular, until you proceed above Little River. Here the 
land is elevated, prominent, and much impaired by ero- 



120 COUNTY OF 

eion ; while the water is considerably agitated by two 
or three small, but rapid cascades of four or five feet 
descent. From this point up to its source, the appear- 
ance of the north-west is rather bold and primitive, the 
country corresponding in its general features, with se- 
veral of the rivers in the Baiedcs Chaleurs. 

On this river, as well as on most of its branches, has 
a great deal of very excellent white pine been made ; 
and it still contains a considerable quantity of the same 
description mixed with red pine, birch, and juniper, of 
a similar character. The main river is pretty thickly 
settled for about twenty miles on both sides ; but its im- 
provement has been considerably retarded by several 
extensive reserves held but unoccupied by the Indians. 
On the West side, about Four miles from the entrance, 
there is a neat little Baptist Church, in the rear of which 
is Williamstown, a new but thriving settlement, estab- 
lished and owned by Irish Methodists. Eight miles 
higher up, the Roman Catholics have lately erected the 
frame of a large chapel. 

This river contains two Saw Mills, and one Grist 
Mill ; is well provided with Schools ; and counts an ag- 
gregate population of 1200 souls. 

River Barnaby, heads near the source of the Kouchi- 
bouguac, and together with several considerable 
branches, laves a large tract of tolerably fertile land, 
until it discharges into theMiramichi, nearly opposite to 
Barnaby's Island. 



NORTHUMBERLAND. 121 

On this river there is a Saw Mill, and a Grist Mill ; 
but although these, conjunctively with the goodness of 
the soil, present facilities for occupation, there are but 
few settlers. 

The Renous, with its principal tributary, the Dun- 
garvan, after travelling more than forty miles, escapes 
at the head of the tide, where there is a small settle- 
ment called Indian Town. On this river there are no 
settlers, although there is a large tract of land well 
wooded. 

The Bartholomew emerges from a beautiful Lake 
near Porter's Brook ; and after fertilizing a naturally 
rich, but unoccupied tract of land, obtains a vent ten 
miles above the Renous. Here there is a good ; Saw 
Mill. __ 

Fourteen miles above the Bartholomew, the Ef ienne, 
commonly called O'Kaine's river, pays its tribute; This 
is a noble stream emanating from a large plain in the 
County of York, a short distance from the sources of the 
Penneawk. It is nearly 100 miles in length ; bathes 
rather an unpromising tract of country ; and is cherish- 
ed by numerous subservients, whereof Savoy's river, on 
which there is a large Saw Mill, is the most extensive. 

On the Etienne there are about forty families, chiefly 

Irish emigrants ; and at its confluence with the main 

river, a small Township containing 22 houses, inhabited 

by the same class. 

16 



122 COUNTY OF 

Between this river and the Burnt Land Brook, to 
which we have already alluded, there is a variety of 
email streams, but none of them afford a subject of de- 
scription. , 

00 

DESCRIPTION OF TABOOINTAC RIVER. 

The Taboointac, or as it implies in English, the place 
where two reside, is the only other primary river in the 
County. It rises in porous land near Bass river, a 
stream discharging into the Baie des Chaleurs ; is about 
50 miles long ; flows over a soft muddy bottom ; and 
strays in a variety of shapes, through a tolerably rich 
woodland country, until it mingles with the Gulf, eight 
miles N. E. of Neguaak. Here it spreads into a small 
but safe harbour, for vessels of 8 or 9 feet draught. 

For ten miles up, whither the tide flows, the soil, with 
a few exceptions on the south side, is rather light and 
sandy, but thence all the way to the head of the river, 
it is a rich clayey loam, with a dispersion of marl, girdled 
by intervales, and covered with a mixed growth of white 
and red Pine, Birch and Maple. 

The banksvof this river are, at almost every half mile, 
seamed by creeks and streams ; but its principal tribu- 
taries are the Big and Little Escudillaght, the Maallehagit 
and the Cowwesigit. At the latter, commences the Indian 
Reserve, extending five miles up, and a mile and a half 
back. To this reservation may be ascribed the present 



NORTHUMBERLAND. 123 

limited settlement of Taboointac. Occupying such a 
large space of the tideway, it has prevented settlers 
from going up the river, and will continue to do so until 
it is broken up ; for such a blank presents little to induce, 
and a great deal to dissuade any one from residing 
above it. 

In addition to the numerous and incontrovertible ar- 
guments that might be urged for the abolition of Indian 
Reserves generally, it may be mentioned, that in this 
particular case, the privileged party are anxious to dis- 
pose of their immunity. Last winter a few authorized 
delegates went to Fredericton, and solicited the govern- 
ment to take their Reserve, and in lieu of it, give them 
a little money, to enable them to build a Chapel. If the 
government conclude this bargain, both the Country 
and the Casual Revenue will gain by it ; for the land 
will be soon occupied, and the purchase money will ex- 
ceed what the Indians require. 

For the last sixteen years, a considerable quantity of 
the timber shipped at Miramichi, has been made on this 
river ; and notwithstanding these extensive drafts, it 
still contains a large stock. 

Tht Taboointae is connected with the Baie des Chaleurs, 
by a road leading to Tracadie, and thence to Bathurst ; 
and with the Miramichi, by a portage leading to Ne- 
guaak. It contains at present, 38 dwelling houses, oc- 
cupied by as many families ; also two Saw Mills, one 



124 



COUNTY OF 



Grist Mill, and two Day Schools ; besides a small Pres- 
byterian Chapel, occasionally visited by the Clergyman 
from Newcastle. 



Northumberland provides two battallions of Militia, 
and a corps of sea Fencibles ; sends two members to the 
General Assembly ; and contains a gross population of 
9,250 souls, consisting of Irish and Scotch emigrants, 
a few English ones, and some natives of the Province, 
with a small number of Acadian French. 



The following is a correct table, shewing both the 
number and value of the Saw and Grist Mills, contain- 
ed in this County.* 



Where situated. 


No. 


Saw Mills. 


No. 


Grist Mills. 


Total 
Value. 


Value. 


Value. 


Nappan River, 






2 






Black River, 






1 






Baie des Vents, 


1 










Bartibog, 






2 






Chatham, 






1 






Moorfields, 


l 










French Fort ) 
Cove, ) 


l 










North westliiver, 


2 










River Barnaby, 


2 











* Not being able to obtain the accurate value, I thought it 
the more prudent way, to attempt no estimate whatever. 



NORTHUMBERLAND. 



125 



Where situated. 


No. 


Saw Mills. 


No. 


Grist Mills. 


Total. 


Brought forward 


7 




6 






Black Brook, 

Savoy River, 

Green River, 

Mill Brook, 

Indian Town, 

Bartholemew ) 
River, ) 

Porter's Brook, 

Burnt Land ) 
Brook, ) 

Taboointac, 


2 








m 

>■* 

(-> 

O [ 

CO 

>— i 

i 

n 

1 
% 

QD ' 

i 



18 



13 



COUNTY OP KENT, 



CHAPTER L 



Situation and Division — Early history of the French— Charac- 
ter of the Richibucto Indians — And an account oj the first 
settlement, by the British. 



^The County of Kent, formerly a part of Northumber- 
land, is seated in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and com- 
prehends a sea board of about fifty miles, extending 
from Point Escuminac, the southern extremity of Mi- 
ramichi Bay, and thence on to Shediac Island. The 
coast is thinly covered with small pine, spruce, and fir ; 
and is so exceedingly low, that none of the harbours 
indenting it, can be descried at ten miles distance. — 
We have already observed, in our general view of the 
Province, that this shore is striped by sand beaches and 
marshes ; and we may now add, that on the latter, and 
about the entrance of each harbour ? there are small 
.clustered settlements, consisting principally of Acadian 

French. 

17 



130 COUNTY OF KENT. 

When this County received its local constitution, it 
was subdivided into the six following Parishes, which 
it now contains ; viz ; — Carleton, Liverpool, Wel- 
lington, Pundas, Huskisson, and Harcourt. 

To one of the many dishonorable means, used by the 
French government, to evade the " Definitive Treaty 
of Utrecht ;'* and disturb the peaceable possession of 
Great Britain, in her North American Colonies, may be 
attributed the first European settlement of this county. 

We have, in the course of the first chapter, alluded in 
general terms, to the disguised perfidies, committed by 
the French Governors of Canada, and Cape Breton, 
upon the British settlements on the Ohio, and in dif- 
ferent parts of Nova Scotia ; and also to the issue of the 
war which resulted from those proceedings. Every, 
day exhibiting to them in a still clearer light, the im- 
portance of Nova Scotia, these men, to wrest that Pro- 
vince, from Great Britain, after having exhausted every 
stratagem, whose original design, and ultimate end, 
could be concealed by either pretext or subterfuge, re- 
sorted to open violence. 

■ 

Notwithstanding such a breach of national faith, the 
British Government still preserved a pacific character ; 
nor were any retaliatory measures adopted, until after 
the death of our Ambassador, the Earl of Albemarle, at 
Paris. Immediately after this event, the unprincipled 
conduct of the French, became so glaring, that the 1 
Marquis de Mirepoix, their Plenipotentiary at London,! 



COUNTY OF KENT. 131 

returned to France, and upbraided the Ministry, for 
having made him the tool of their dissimulation. They 
referred him to the King, who ordered him to re- 
turn to London, with fresh assurances of his pacific 
intentions. 

Scarcely had the Ambassador presented his creden- 
tials, when undoubted intelligence arrived, that a pow- 
erful armament was ready to sail from Brest and Roche- 
fort. This roused the government, and accordingly 
two fleets were dispatched under Admirals Boscawen 
and Holborne. We shall now advert to the particular 
instances more immediately the subject, of our consider- 
ation. 

While the precise limits of Nova-Scotia were yet a 
subject of conference between the two Nations, the 
French Governor of Canada detached a Monsieur La 
Corne, with some regular troops and a body of militia, 
to fortify a post on the Bay of Chignecto, in the Coun- 
ty of Cumberland, under the pretence that this, and a 
great part of the Peninsula,belonged to his government. 

The establishment of this post was a great annoy- 
ance to the English Colonists, for being situated on the 
narrow isthmus that connects Nova Scotia with New 
Brunswick, it secured to the Indians on the Continent, 
a free entrance into the Peninsula, as well as a safe re- 
treat in case of pursuit. It moreover, so effectually 
awakened the slumbering energies of original allegi- 
ance, in the French Inhabitants of Annapolis, that they 
rose in open rebellion against the English Government. 



132 COUNTY OF KENT. 

This people having abandoned the comfortable homes 
they were allowed to enjoy upon promises of neutrality, 
put themselves under the command of La Corne, and 
with him repaired to the Missaguash River, in the 
County of Westmoreland, where he had a fort erected 
called Beau Sejour, or Handsome Position ; but now 
known as Fort Cumberland. They also built another 
on the neck of the Peninsula, at the extremity of Bait 
Verte, or Green Bay, and which was afterwards called 
Fort Monkton ; a third on the Gaspereaux River ; and 
a fourth at the mputh of the St. John. These circum- 
stances seem to confirm the accounts we have, of the 
former existence of fortified places on the Miramichi. 

Thus protected by batteries ; influenced by political 
feelings ; and encouraged by their government ; the 
French neutrals, assisted by their Indian Allies, com- 
mitted many and great enormities, until they were fi- 
nally dispersed in the summer of 1755. The following is 
a circumstantial account of both the conflict, and its con- 
sequences. 

Early in the summer of 1755, the Assembly of Massa- 
chusetts Bay, in New England, passed an act, prohibit- 
ing all correspondence with the French at Louisbourg ; 
and immediately afterwards sent a large detachment, to 
assist Lieutenant Governor Lawrence, to drive the 
French from the encroachments they had made upon 
Nova-Scotia. The direction of this expedition was con- 
fided to Lieutenant Colonel "Monkton, with whom was 
associated Captain Rous, with three frigates and a { 



COUNTY OF KENT. 133 

sloop, to give their assistance by sea. The troops, upon 
their arrival at the Missaguash, found their passage 
opposed by a large number of Regulars, Rebel Neutrals, 
and Indians, 450 of whom occupied a block-house, 
mounted with cannon, on their side of the river, while 
the rest were posted within a strong stockade or breast- 
work, built round the block-house. 

The English Provincials attacked this place with such 
spirit and energy, that the enemy were obliged to fly, 
and leave the passage of the river free. From thence 
Colonel Monkton advanced to Beau Sejour, which he 
invested, and after four days bombardment, obliged to 
surrender. This last victory was as creditable to the 
besiegers, as it was disgraceful to the besieged ; for al- 
though the French had twenty-six pieces of ordnance, 
with plenty of ammunition and rations, the English had 
not a single cannon, but little ammunition, and less 
provisions. 

The garrison was sent to Louisbourg, on condition of 
not bearing arms inAmerica,forthe space of six months ; 
and the Acadians, who had joined the French, were 
pardoned in consideration of their having been forced 
into that service. Colonel Monkton, after putting a 
garrison into this place, changed its name to that of 
Cumberland ; and the next day, attacked and reduced 
the fort upon Gaspereaux river. In the mean time, 
Capt. Rous proceeded with his armament up the Bay 
of Fundy, in order to attack the Fort on the St. John 
river ; but having arrived there, he had nothing to be- 



134 COUNTY OF KENT. 

siege, for the French had abandoned the place, previ- 
ously destroying the guns, magazine, and every thing 
else. In this expedition, which fully accomplished all 
the ends for which it was designed, the English had but 
twenty men killed, and about the same number wounded. 

After the capture of these places, the Acadians who 
had been pardoned, as already mentioned, dispersing 
themselves throughout the Country, many of them 
settled in different parts of Kent, particularly on the 
Richibucto, and the Buctouche. It may therefore, be 
inferred, that the first European settlement of this 
County, was commenced in the year 1756 ; and that 
that incident may be ascribed to the scandalous and 
unprincipled conduct of the French Government. 

It is said, however, that before these events occur- 
red, there was a French Village, containing upwards of 
forty houses, situated a short distance above, or in the 
immediate vicinity of the present Court House of Liver- 
pool. It is also maintained that another, but smaller 
village was, about the same time, seated near the bu- 
rial ground, at the mouth of the Aldoine, a River dis- 
charging into the Richibucto. These statements ap- 
pear to be candid enough ; — indeed, when we consider 
the contiguity of Miramichi, and the much earlier date 
of its settlement, we are, at first blush, a little surprised 
that this county was so far behind it. Perhaps the ex- 
traordinary ferocity of the Richibucto Indians, formerly 
very numerous and exceedingly cruel, coupled with the f 
comparative smallness of the Rivers, and the then inca- i 



COUNTY OF KENT. 133 

pacity of the harbours, may account for the apparent 
discrepancy. However, be the cause what it may, the 
first settlement cannot be traced to an earlier flate, than 
that which I have assigned. 

After the taking of Quebec, whatever Settlements had 
been formed by the indulged Acadians, captured with 
La Corne, were abandoned ; some of the inhabitants re- 
turning to France, others dispersing themselves through 
the Baie des Chaleurs. Thus, from the year 1760 or 1761 
until 17ST, a period of twenty six years, the county of 
Kent lay in relapsed barbarism. 

In the latter year, Mr. Powell, an American loyalist, 
settled on the Richibucto ; at this time there were but 
four families, Acadians too, in the whole Coun/y ; and 
but eight in all the tract of country lying between Baie 
des Vents, in Miramichi, and Baie Verte, in Cumberland ; 
and from the entrance of the Richibucto, to the head of 
the Grand Lake. 

For the twenty two succeeding years, i. e. until 1S09, 
it cannot be supposed that any thing of an historical 
character could have distinguished the annals of a wil- 
derness country, containing but a few scattered fami* 
lies, chiefly Acadians, from Bonaventure, Tracadiash, 
and other parts of the District of Gaspe, and who came 
hither in a few years after Mr. Powell, and settled chief- 
ly, upon the marshes and beaches that skirt the coast. 

About this period, the trade which had hitherto been 



136 COUNTY OF KENT. 

confined to an annual exportation, of three or four Bmali 
cargoes of Alewives and assorted Lumber, to the West 
Indies, was now increased by the first two shipments of 
■quare timber. 

Although considerably retarded in its progress, by 
many embarrassing circumstances arising from its lo- 
calities, and from being formerly, a remote, and much 
neglected part of Northumberland, Kent has, not- 
withstanding, steadily advanced, in a comparative ratio, 
equal to any of the Counties we treat of. During the 
last ten years, a considerable trade has been carried on 
in sawed Lumber, and the manufacture of ton Timber ; 
while both agriculture and the fisheries, have been 
honoured with a greater share of attention, than has 
been conferred upon them, by either Northumberland 
or Gloucester. 

We have already said, that the early settlement of 
this County, might possibly, have been prevented, in a 
great measure, by the ferocity of the Indians.— The fol- 
lowing instances, while they shew their daring and 
bravery in war, as well as their summary, and rather 
mosaical way, of executing punishment among them- 
selves, supply a strong confirmation of the opinion. 

In the year 1723, or 1724, a very general war was 
commenced against the English, by several divisions of 
the Micmac, or Eastern Nation, of which the- most vio- 
lent, as also the most sanguinary, were the Richibuctos. 
This tribe, assisted by a party of the Fenobscots, and J 

■m 

1 



COUNTY OF KENT. 137 

commanded by a formidable and stalwart fellow, called 
Argimoosh, or the Great Witch, attacked Canso, and 
other harbours in its vicinity, whence they took 16 or 
17 sail of fishing vessels belonging to Massachusetts. — 
Governor Phillips, happening to be in Canso, at the 
time, ordered two sloops to be manned, and sent them 
under the direction of a Mr. Elliott, of Boston, and a 
Mr. Robinson, of Cape Anne. Elliot, while cruising 
along the coast, perceived seven vessels lying in a har- 
bour, called Winnepaug. As he approached them, he 
observed the decks to be crowded with Indians, who, 
when he came within hearing, hoisted their pennants, 
and cried out, a strike English Dogs, and come aboard, 
for you are all prisoners." As they had caught a Tartar, 
an engagement immediately ensued, in which, with 
desperate bravery, did the Indians maintain their 
ground, for nearly an hour. Being at length, over- 
powered, they jumped into the hold, and when driven 
thence, by the hand grenades, Elliot flung amongst 
them, they plunged into the sea, where nearly all of 
them, were either drowned or shot. 

In this encounter, Elliot received three severe 
wounds ; several of his men sustained similar injury ; 
and five of them were killed. The seven vessels thus 
captured, were part of the fleet taken from Canso ; but 
of their former seamen, consisting otthirty eight individu- 
als, only fifteen were recovered, the Indians having 
wantonly murdered nine of them, and sent the rest pri- 
soners to their settlements. Robinson retook two ves- 
sels, and killed several of the marauders ; and the re- 

18 



138 COUNTY OF KENT. 

mainder, with their crews, were, after some difficulty, 
obtained by ransom. 

A few years after these affairs, the Richibuctos con- 
demned one of their tribe, convicted of some treasona- 
ble correspondence with the Mohawks, to be stoned to 
death. After a regular and formal trial, the criminal 
was conveyed with a great deal of solemnity, from Sni- 
der's Point, at the entrance of the harbour, to Piatt's 
Point, about three miles further up, and there, being 
previously bound hand and foot, and fastened upon a 
rock, still visible at low water, was the sentence exe- 
cuted. This mode of execution, so analogous to the 
Jewish custom, affords some illustration of Perm's theory, 
wherein he contends that the aborigines of America, 
are descended from the Jews. Did an enquiry of this 
kind correspond with our views, we might, without 
much difficulty, advance some arguments to sustain it. 

All these circumstances confirm the opinion, that the 
sanguinary disposition of the natives, in a great degree, 
prevented the earlier settlement of this County. And 
when we consider the date of their attack on Canso, 
and that they were then, and for some time subsequent- 
ly, engaged in a predatory war, we are strongly inclined 
to believe, that settlements had been made on Richibuc- 
to, a considerable time before the taking of Bait Verity 
and that these settlements were destroyed by the 
Indians. 

Although it is but four years since this county was 



COUNTY OF KENT. 139 

detached from Northumberland, even in that short time 
it has decidedly advanced. The advantages of local 
jurisdiction — a resident magistracy — and domestic re- 
presentation, have already strikingly manifested them- 
selves, in the improved condition of both the country 
and the people. Population has increased ; roads have 
been opened ; bridges erected ; and schools founded. — s 
Agriculture has also been extended ; an improved breed 
of cattle has been introduced ; and the fisheries have 
improved under an enlarged cultivation of them. In 
addition to these promising traits, the industry of the 
people has been further employed, in the construction 
of several large vessels ; and in the erection of some 
excellent Saw and Grist Mills. 



CHAPTER II, 



TRADE AND REVENUE. 



In the year 1824, the trade of Kent, like that of the 
whole Province, was highly overstrained. But as both 
it and Gloucester were then comprised in Northumber- 
land, I can hardly be accused of digressing, if I open 
this short chapter by showing, as far as my information 
goes, a general view of our Provincial trade during the 
above year, and likewise the part, which the latter 
County sustained in it. 

In 1824, the total number of vessels, exclusive of 
coasters entered at, and cleared from all the ports in 
this Province, except those of Northumberland, were 
as follows ; — 



COUNTY OF KENT. 



141 





INWARDS. 








No. 


Tons. 


Men. 


At Saint John, 


432 


94,248 


4,192 


— Saint Andrews, 


156 


29,687 


1,406 


— Dorchester, 


4 


841 


37 


— Shediac, 


9 


1,890 


98 




601 


126,666 


5,733 




OUTWARDS. 








No. 


Tons. 


Men. 


From Saint John, 


417 


102,300 


4,198 


— Saint Andrews 


i7 175 


33,493 


1,543 


— Dorchester, 


4 


841 


37 


— Shediac, 


9 


1,890 


98 




605 


138,524 


5,876 



SQUARE TIMBER EXPORTED. 



From Saint John, 

— Saint Andrews, 

— Dorchester, 

— Shediac, 



114,116 Tons. 

25,975 do. 

1,246 do. 

2,625 do. 



Total number of Tons, 



143,962 



142 COUNTY OF KENT. 

An account of the vessels entered at, and cleared from the 
different ports in the County of Northumberland exclu- 
sively. 

INWARDS. 





No. 


Tons. 


Men. 


At Miramichi, 


327 


94,601 


4,192 


— Bathurst, 


33 


6,143 


302 


— Restigouche, 


13 


2,226 


118 


— Richibucto & Bu< 


ctouche, 96 
469 


19,618 


940 




122,588 


5,552 




OUTWARDS 








No. 


Tons. 


Men. 


From Miramichi, 


231 


94,800 


4,341 


— Bathurst, 


33 


6,143 


302 


— Restigouche, 


14 


2,301 


121 


— Richibucto & E 


luctouche, 91 
469 


19,413 


©30 




122,657 


5,694 



SQUARE TIMBER EXPORTED. 

From Miramichi 141,384 Ton* 

Bathurst, 8,308 do. 

Restigouche, 3,062 do, 

Richibucto & Buctoucbe, 27,544 do. 



Total number of Tons, 180,298 

What we principally learn from these tables is ; that 
of one thousand and seventy vessels, measuring two 



COUNTY OF KENT. 



143 



hundred and forty -nine thousand, two hundred and 
fifty-four tons, and manned by eleven thousand, two nun* 
dred and eighty-five seamen, all employed by this Pro- 
vince, in 1824; 469 vessels, 122,588 tons, and 5,552 
seamen, were engaged in the trade of Northumberland 
alone. And, that of three hundred and twenty-four 
thousand, two hundred and sixty tons of square Tim- 
ber, then exported from the Province ; 180,298 tons, 
were shipped in that County. Thus did the County of 
Northumberland, in that year, ship 36,336 tons of Tim- 
ber, more than all the rest of the Provinces besides. 

— oo — 

The following is a statement of the Trade -and Re- 
venue of the County of Kent, for the years 1829 and 
1830 ; to which is subjoined the number of vessels 
built therein, during the last eight years : — 

1829. 



SHIPS INWARDS. 

No. Tons. 



Men. 



From the United Kingdom, 65 
the Colonies, 66 
Foreign Europe, 1 


14,818 

4,401 

225 


748 

268 

9 


132 


19,444 


1,025 


IMPORTS. 

From the United Kingdom, 
the Colonies, 




Sterling. 
19,420 
11,055 10 9 




30,475 10 9 



144 



COUNTY OF KENT. 

SHIPS OUTWARDS. 

No. Tons. 



Men. 



To the United Kingdom, 78 


17,783 




881 


the Colonies, 66 


4,401 




268 


144 


22,184 




M49 


EXPORTS. 












Sterling. 


To the United Kingdom, 




30,432 





the Colonies, 




1,712 


7 8 



32,144 7 8 
STAPLE ARTICLES EXPORTED. 



Timber, 


27,899 Tons. 


Shingles, 


18 M, 


Deals, 


64,000 Feet. 


Treenails, 


4,500 Pieces. 


Lathwood, 


640 Cords. 


Handspikes, 


183 do. 


Oars, 


1,334 Pieces. 


Ship knees, 


42 do. 


Staves, 


32 M. 


Ale wives, 


l,780Barre!s. 


Spars, 


1,320 Pieces. 







1830. 
SHIPS INWARDS. 

No. Tons. 



Men. 



From the United Kingdom, 


78 


18,841 


918 


From the Colonies, 


73 


4,526 


309 


From the United States, 


1 


296 


13 



157 23,163 1,240 



COUNTY OF KENT. 
IMPORTS. 



145 



From the United Kingdom, 
From the Colonies, 



Sterling. 

5,857 

9,912 



£15,769 



SHIPS OUTWARDS 

No. Tons. 



Men, 



To the United Kingdom, 
To the Colonies, 



92 

74 



22,064 
4,597 



1,043 
313 



166 


26,661 1,356 


EXPORTS 






Sterling. 


To the United Kingdom, 


82,728 


To the Colonies, 


1,227 



£33,955 
STAPLE ARTICLES EXPORTED. - 



Timber, 


32,069 Tons. 


Spars, 


1,147 Pieces. 


Deals, 


593 M. Feet. 


Shingles, 


144 M. 


Lathwood, 


809 Cords. 


Treenails, 


900 Pieces. 


Oars, 


979 Pieces. 


Handspikes, 


478 Do. 


Stares, 


31 M. 


Alewives, 


1,218 Bis. 



Imperial Revenue, collected under Statutes of the 

British Parliament : 

Sterling. 

1829. By Acts prior and subsequent to Geo. III. £178 18 11 

1830. By Do. Do. Do. 169 19 5 



Ex. 



19 



34S 18 4 
38 15 4 

387 13 8 



146 COUNTY OF KENT. 

Provincial Revenue, collected under Acts of the 
General Assembly: 

1829, 511 12 6 

1830, 806 7 11 

1,318 6 5 



Total Revenue for two years, j£1,705 14 1 



Vessels built in the the County of Kent, during the 
last eight years.* 

Builders. No. Tonnage. Supposed value. 



Messrs. R. & J. Jardine, 


7 


2,222 


22,220 








James Long & Co. 


7 


2,399 


23,990 








Wm. Hannington, 


5 


1,102 


11,020 









19 5,723 57,230 

These tables, for the period they illustrate, speak in 
a very flattering manner of the Trade of this County. 
It appears, that a considerable profit resulting to the 
Country is the consequence of a system, in which a great 
degree of prudence is discernible. Thus, we see that 
the shipments of 1829, after providing for the Imports, 
leave a surplus of £1,668 16 11 ; while the Exports of 
1830 exceed the Imports of the same year, in the sum 
of £18,186 0. 

* All the vessels built in this County, as well as those in 
Northumberland, are eminently distinguished for a durability 
of materials and an elegancy of construction. Many of them 
sustain a respectable character in the South American Trade, 
and others have, by sale, been raised to the dignity of East 
India men ; nor does it afford us less pleasure to add, that the 
same remarks may, with equal justice, be applied to the vessels 
built in Gloucester. 



CHAPTER III 



Rivers — Towns — Settlements — Population, #c. 

No part of the Province is better watered than this 
County. Numerous rivers, streams, and creeks, con- 
verging at their heads, and mingling in their courses r 
gambol through it in every direction. They rise gene- 
rally out of large swamps and barrens, called by the 
Indians Koouhawaak, or the Garriboo Plains ; are fed by 
different tributaries, either rising in the interior of the 
County, or straying from the circumjacent ones ; and 
discharge into the Gulf, at various points, between the 
entrance of the Miramichi and Shediac Harbour. I 
shall mention these rivers in the same order as they lie 
south of the former place. 

KouchibougUack River — is about 45 miles long, and 
discharges through Lagoons into the Gulf, about 32 



145 COUNTY OF KENT. 

miles south of Miramichi, where it forms a small and 
safe harbor for vessels of ten or twelve feet draught. 
The banks of this river are, in some places, high and 
precipitous ; and covered with a light friable loam, in- 
terspersed with large patches of a darker and heavier 
description. In others the prevailing soil is a mixture 
of clay and gravel. 

Large quantities of timber for the Richibucto market 
have been made on this river ; and it still contains a 
considerable stock of light birch, spruce, and pine. The 
settlers, chiefly Scotch emigrants, comprising about 22 
or 23 families, are engaged in lumbering and agriculture, 
and live dispersed along the tide way, at the head of 
which there is an extensive Saw Mill. 

Kouchibouguacksis. — This river rises in a lake near- 
ly 52 miles from its mouth ; and falls into the Gulf, 
about 38 miles south of Miramichi. It has an exceed- 
ingly mild and pastoral appearance ; the agreeable di- 
versity of its course, interposing between irregularity 
and monotony ; while the sprightly gentleness of its 
current, seems to retire from strife without approaching 
to dullness. The land rises gradually with patient and 
unassuming acclivity ; and in the path of the tide, the 
banks are studded with houses sufficiently comfortable 
to exclude inconvenience. 

The soil is a rich dark loam, or argillaceous earth, 
well wooded with heavy Birch, Hemlock and Maple, 
and is, notwithstanding the restraints of imperfect hus- 



COUNTY OF KENT. 149 

bandry, very productive. The settlers are all Acadian 
French, consisting of 45 families, located within eleven 
miles from the entrance of the river. About the centre 
of the settlement they have a large and commodious 
Chapel, and at either extremity, a saw mill and a grist 
mill. The only employment followed here is Agricul- 
ture, a pursuit, for which, were the people acquainted 
with it, the land is admirably adapted. 

The Richibucto — the largest River in the County,' 
and the seat of the Shire Town and principal Settle- 
ments, is about 65 miles long, and rolls into the Gulf, 
through a large and commodious Harbour, 43 miles 
south of Escuminaac. Its greatest breadth in the tide, 
is at the entrance,where it is little more than a mile ; in 
other places it does not exceed from 25 to 40 fathoms. 
In its course,which is rather devious, it receives a num- 
ber of tributaries, of which the most considerable are, 
the South Branch, rising near the Washademoack ; the 
Bass River, springing from the Kouchibouguaksis ; 
with the Molies, the St. Nicholas, and the Aldoine, flow- 
ing from different sources. 

On the South Branch a Mr. Ford has lately erected a 
Saw Mill, and a Grist Mill. The latter is decidedly one 
of the best in the Province. It has machinery of a su- 
perior description ; works three pairs of stones revolv- 
ing on one axle ; and besides grinding wheat and oats, 
manufactures pot barley. This river, and all the other 
tributaries I have named, except the Aldoine, are thinly 
settled by Irish and Scotch ; the latter is a French set- 



150 COUNTY OF KENT. 

tlement, comprising nearly fifty families, having a Red- 
man Catholic Chapel, and a School House. 

On the main river, that is the Richibucto itself, the 
settlements extend for about 25 miles on each side. On 
the north side, about four miles from the entrance of 
the harbour, is the town of Liverpool, so called, in hum- 
ble admiration of the Queen of the Mersey. It is agree- 
ably situated, and at present contains 48 dwelling 
houses, 7 mercantile establishments, a very handsome 
Court House, a Jail, Post Office, and Treasury. This 
town has increased very rapidly ; for, about 7 years 
ago, it comprised only five houses and two stores. For 
this improvement, it is indebted to the timber trade, 
more than to any local privileges ; and should the fish- 
eries be hereafter prosecuted to any considerable ex- 
tent, it is highly probable, that its proximity to the 
coast, will obtain for it a similar favour from that branch, 
of industry. 

Two miles above the town is the Presbyterian, or 
Antiburgher Church, the only one, I believe, of any of 
the reformed persuasions, in the whole county. It is a 
neat and plain edifice of modern architecture ; and is 
capable of containing upwards of three hundred hearers, 
at present supplied by the Rev. John M'Lean, a Gra- 
duate of Pictou Academy. 

While I use this opportunity, as well to observe, that 
although there is no Episcopal Church in this County, 
there are several Episcopalians and Wesley an Methodists 



COUNTY OF KENT. 151 

in it, and that they have been hitherto occasionally visit- 
ed by theRev. Mr. Bacon, of Miramichi, I may also state, 
than when the kindness of the Higli Sheriff, Thomas 
Lansdowne, Esq. enabled me to inspect the Court 
House and Jail, the clean and orderly state of both, 
and the attention paid to the comfort of the prisoners, 
were highly creditable to that officer. 

On the south side of the river, near the entrance of 
the harbour, there is a large and compact French village, 
containing upwards of sixty houses — an elegantly finish- 
ed chapel — a comfortable Mission House, and a well 
conducted school. The resident Priest is the Rev. Mr. 
Paquet, a gentleman deservedly esteemed by all classes 
of people. 

A short distance above this settlement, is the property 
of Messrs Pagan and Powell, the first, and formerly, the 
most respectable Merchants in the county ; and about 
four or five miles higher up, are the mercantile estab- 
lishments of Messrs. Robert and John Jardine ; also 
the Custom House, Grammar School, Manse, and seve- 
ral respectable dwelling houses. Above this, a range of 
handsome buildings, extending for about six or eight 
miles, preserve a unity of appearance with the other 
side of the river. 

About a mile from the Custom House, a new road has 
been opened to Buctouche, intended as a post commu- 
nication with the bridge lately built over the Mahala- 
wodiack, The distance is about 15 miles ; the ground 



162 COUNTY OF KENT. 

is level ; well laid out ; and cleft in several places by 
small streams, of which the Shaukpeitsch, is the most 
considerable. On this road a new settlement called 
Galloway, is rapidly forming. Here eighteen families 
are now comfortably settled, where about ten years ago 
there was not a single tree cut down. 

Twelve miles farther up the river, the Emigrant 
Road, extending to the bend of Peticodiac, a river in 
the adjoining county of Westmorland, enters the forest. 
It is about 34 miles long ; and crosses the Buctouche, 
the Cocagne, and the Shediac. The land is very good, 
and thickly covered with a mixed growth, in which ash 
and heavy birch predominate. This line was described 
a few years ago by special commissioners ; but at pre- 
sent, the settlements on it do not extend more than 
eight miles, from where it commences at Peticodiac. 1 A 
considerable sum has been expended on this design; and 
if the original intention be not speedily applied, it will 
become so much money, foolishly squandered on Colonel 
Cockburn's Cabbage Garden.* 

The banks of the Richibucto, for more than nine 
miles up, are low and sandy ; and do, by spreading into 
the river, form a sort of parapet wall on either side of 
the channel. The rear of the clearances, for this dis- 
tance, is feathered with small spruce and hemlock ; but 
thence towards the head of the tide, a short distance up 
the rapids, and along the edges of the different branches, 
the land assumes an easy and gradual elevation, indica- 

* Colonel Cockbum was the most sanguine of all the sanguine 
commissioners engaged in projecting this abortion. 



COUNTY OF KENT. 153 

ting by a better growth of timber, a better and more 
fruitful soil. 

Buctouche River proceeds from wild meadows, 
near the New Canaan, is 36 miles long, and falls into 
the gulf, 20 miles due South of Riehibucto. The tide 
flows about 13 miles, whither the settlement, consisting 
of fifty-six families, principally French, extends. The 
land is a deep clayey loam, exceedingly fertile, and sus- 
taining a mixed growth. 

This river is well timbered ; within the last two years 
upwards of 6,000 tons of very good white and red Pine, 
have been manufactured on its banks. A short distance 
below the post road there is a very neat chapel, and 
near the head of the tide are two saw mills. The inha- 
bitants are in comfortable circumstances, and pursue a- 
griculture almost exclusively ; the lumbering is carried 
on by parties from Riehibucto, for account of the ■ mer- 
chants there. 

The Mahalawodiaak, or Little Buctouche, is a 
very handsome, though small river of 32 miles in length. 
At the head of the tide, there is a saw mill, and a grist 
mill ; and at its confluence with the Buctouche, a bridge 
crossing its mouth. On this river, there is very little 
timber, but the soil is excellent, as several good farms 
abundantly testify. Here are forty eight families, con- 
sisting of French and English, each party having a well 

directed elcmentary^school. 

20 



154 COUNTY OF KENT. 

The Cocagne is a small river, rising near the head 
of the Buctouche, 9 miles Southward of which, it forms 
a good harbour on the gulf shore. On this river are 
two schools, two saw mills, and a grist mill. Its repu- 
ted length is 28 miles ; its natural features are in close 
keeping with the Buctouche ; and its population 
amounts to thirty two families, the greater part where- 
of are English. The trade here, consists of an almost 
equally divided prosecution of Ship Building, Agricul- 
ture, and Lumbering. 

Shediac River, the boundary line between Kent and 
Westmorland, presents in its general character and des- 
cription, almost a veri-similitude of the Cocagne. 

All these rivers are well supplied with Bass, Gaspe- 
reaux, Eel, and Trout, besides all varieties of shell fish, 
particularly oysters. Indeed, the latter are so plentiful 
in the three last mentioned, and in such high repute at 
Quebec, that annual shipments are regularly sent thi- 
ther from each of them. 



— oo — 



COUNTY OF KENT. 



155 



The following is an exact account of both the number 
and the value of the Saw and Grist Mills, contained in 
this county. » 



Where situated. 


No. 


Saw Mills. 


No. 


Grist Mills. 


Total 
Value. 


Value. 


Value. 


Kouchibouguack, 


1 


750 




















750 








Kouchibouguacksis 


1 


80 








1 


56 








136 








Aldoine, 














1 


50 








5C 








Richibucto, 


2 


650 








3 


520 








1170 








Buctouche, 


2 


400 




















400 








Little Buctouche, 


1 


350 








1 


70 








420 








Cocagne and other 
parts of the County. 


4 
11 


1500 


o 


o 


3 


220 








172C 












3730 








9 


916 








4646 






Kent provides 1,000 militia men, J comprised in one 
battalion, commanded by Major M'Kean ; — sends one 
member to the General Assembly, and contains a popu- 
lation of about 4,860 souls, whereof 2,620 are Acadian 
French, the remainder consisting chiefly of Irish and 
Scotch emigrants, sparingly mixed with English ones, 
and some natives of the Province. 



CHAPTER IT. 



A general description of the Harbours, in this County ; also 
some directions concerning them. 



We have already observed that a chain of sand 
beaches formed by the sea, when irritated by the N. E. 
wind, stripe the Southern shore of the gulf. Through 
these beaches, the collisive currents of the rivers pro- 
ceeding from the interior, and of the harbours scolloping 
the coast, make channels at the different entrances, 
corresponding in breadth and depth, with the expansion 
and violence of the particular agents- 
Vessels coming through the gulf, bound to Miramichi, 
or any of the harbours Southward thereof, make the 
N. Cape of Prince Edward's Island, to which they 
should give a berth, of at least four miles, in order to 
clear a sunken ledge of rocks. Having rounded this 
Cape, if bound to Richibucto, they haul up S. W. and 



COUNTY OF KENT. 157 

lie across the Straits, until they fetch a Large Buoy, 
moored in six fathoms, about a quarter of a mile out- 
side the Bar. The entrance of this Harbour is formed 
by two Beaches, one on each side, with a Channel be- 
tween them of more than One Hundred Fathoms wide, 
having its greatest depth in the centre. Having made 
the Buoy, they steer about S. S. W. keeping two bea- 
cons on the South Beach in a direct line, until they 
come within a half cable's length of the shore ; when 
they haul up N. W. and stretch about two miles, for 
the pilot's house, on the North Beach. They then run 
between the two Buoys, within a ship's length of the 
shore ; and steering S. W. proceed up the channel, 
through the Bay, and into the harbour. 

The bar has, at dead low water, from 12 J to 13 
feet; at high water, common springs, from 16 to 17 feet ; 
and within it is a safe and commodious harbour, with 
soft bottom, and good anchorage in 4 and 5 Fathoms. 

The river is navigable for large vessels, upwards of 
Eighteen miles ; the channel, for that distance, varying 
from 4 to 7 fathoms in depth ; and from a mile, to 40 fa* 
thorns in breadth. 

Buctouche Harbour lies between two Beaches ; on© 
on the North side, another on the South. The N. 
Beach forms a sort of Hummock ; the S. one is distin- 
guished by two beacons ; and between them, described 
by a Large Black Buoy, is situated the Bar, on which. 



153 COUNTY OF KENT. 

at low water, are S| feet ; at high water, common 
tide, from 13J to 14 feet ; and at Springs, from 15 to 
16 i'eet 

Should a vessel, bound to Buctouche, be forced to run 
for the harbour, after having made the N. Cape of 
Prince Edward's Island, she will continue her course 
along the land, as far as the N. Point of that Island, 
then steer S. W. until she nears the Hummock, within a 
mile and a half. Here she will heave to and make 
signal, when a pilot will be immediately obtained, if 
boarding can be effected. 

If a pilot cannot be had, she can let go in 5 fathoms, 
soft bottom^ and good holding ground ; taking care to 
make the said Hummock bear N. W. Within the bar, 
there is a good and safe harbour, possessing excellent 
anchorage in 4 and 5 fathoms ; .and well sheltered from 
the N. and N. E. winds. Vessels not drawing more 
than 12 feet, may proceed as far as the Chapel. 

Cocagne Harbour. — The entrance of this harbour is 
about a mile wide ; and is formed by an Island on the 
North ; and a red promontory on the South. 

Having made the North Cape of Prince Edward's 
Island, run down that Island, till you make its W. Point ; 
then steer S. W. and by S. J W. till you bring the 
above Island to a bearing and distance of two miles 
West. Here make signal for a pilot ; but should the 



COUNTY OF KENT. 159 

weather or any other circumstance prevent boarding, 
run off about 2\ miles from the land, keeping the 
mouth of the harbour open ; here you may drop an- 
chor in 5 fathoms, and ride till day light. 

Should you be forced to run for the harbour, keep the 
centre, between the Island and the promontory, steering 
W. S. W. until you fetch the point of the Island to bear 
North ; then hauling up W. and hugging the Island 
withing a cable's length, you will clear the bar, and 
after a run of two miles, bring up in 5 fathoms, nearly 
opposite to Mr. Long's ship yard. 

The bar has, at common tides, 9 feet at low water ; 
14 feet at high water ; and at springs, from 15 to 16 \ 

feet. 

Shediac Harbour is a small but deep Basin, having 
a soft bottom, with good anchorage in 5 and 6 fathoms. 
Its entrance is formed by an Island on the North side ; 
and the main on the South. Having made the North 
Cape of Prince Edward's Island, run down that Island 
till you make its West point ; then steer S. S. W. till you 
near Shediac Island, within one mile, where you can 
anchor in 5 fathoms, and wait for a pilot. The draught 
on the bar, and the course of the channel, are nearly 
the same as Cocagne. 

Ships coming through the Gut of Canso, and bound 
co any of the ports> between Cape Torment and Miscou 



160 COUNTY OF KEJVT. 

Island, should, after rounding that Cape, steer N. W. a 
little Westerly, for Shediac ; but for the others, keep the 
land aboard within 4 miles, where they will find 5 and 
6 fathoms all the way, without either rocks or shoals. 
An observance of this rule will provide a safe course ;■ 
and secure the certainty of obtaining pilots. 



COUNTY OF GLOUCESTER 



21 






CHAPTER L 



A brief description of La Baie des Chaleursl 



Before we enter upon the history of this County, it 
would be well to describe the Baie des Chahurs, of which 
it forms the south side. 

La Baie des Chaleurs, or Bay op Heats, was origi- 
nally called by the Micmacs, Ecketaan Nemaachi, or 
the Sea of Fish. It is a large Gulf, or rather Mediter- 
ranean Sea, which, with the River Restigouche, falling 
in at its head, divide^ Lower Canada and New Bruns- 
wick. The entrance of this Bay lies in latitude 47 Q 58* 
N. in longitude 64 ° 30, W. and is formed by Point Mack- 
arel, on the North side, and Point Miscou on the South. 
Here it is twenty two miles wide ; its computed length 
being eighty five miles > and its breadth, within the en- 
trance, varying from thirty, to twenty-six, and sixteen 
miles. 



3 64 COUNTY OF 

On the Canadian, or North side, the land is exceed- 
ingly bold and prominent.; distorted by projections ; fis- 
sured by cavities ; and swelling into a range of lofty 
mountains? whose elevated and extended summits, re- 
semble, when viewed at a distance, a long chain of rol- 
ling and agitated clouds. This tract of country, extend- 
ing from Point Mackarel to the source of the Resti- 
gouche ; and from the same Point, along the Gulf Shore 
to Cape Chapt, at the entrance of the river Saint Law- 
rence, constitutes the District of Gaspe ; and is divided 
into two Counties, the inland one being called Bonaven- 
ture, the other Gaspe. On the South side, except with- 
in twenty miles of the head of the Bay, the interior of 
the country is rather low, although the immediate shore 
is, in some places, considerably elevated, iron-bound, 
and inter-pointed by perpendicular cliffs. 

The whole of this Bay may be considered one im- 
mense harbour, containing several capacious ones. It 
is well sheltered from the most prevailing winds ; is 
abundantly supplied with all varieties of fish-; is the out- 
let of several large Rivers ; has neither rocks nor shoals, 
and is encompassed by extensive tracts of fertile land, 
well wooded, and abounding with Lime Stone, Granite, 
Coal, Gypsum, Ochreous Earths, and different kinds of 
Metals. 

In the midsummer of 1534, the celebrated French na- 
vigator, Jacques Cartier, entered this Bay, previous to 
his discovery of the Saint Lawrence. He was the first 



GLOUCESTER. 16;V 

European that ever visited it ; and in consequence of 
the intense heat he experienced on that occasion, he 
called it La Baie Des Chaleurs, a name by which it has 
ever since been distinguished. These remarks may ena- 
ble the reader to form a tolerably correct idea of the ge- 
neral bearing and situation of the country we are about 
to describe. 

The County of Gloucester commences nearTracadie, 
a river falling into the Gulf, about 30 miles north of Mi- 
ramichi. From thence it extends along the shore, round 
Miscou, up the south side of La Baie des Chaleurs ; and 
on to the sources of the Restigouche. The sea shore 
is low, flat, and sandy ; thinly inhabited, and for a cou- 
ple of miles back, lightly covered with Spruce and Fir. 
From Miscou to Miramichi, as well as from thence to 
Shediac, the coast is skirted by large lagoons, some of 

them twelve miles long and three miles wide. These 
greatly facilitate the coast navigation of small craft ; 

and through them, in order to be shipped, is the timber 

made at Tracadie and Pugmouche, conveyed either to 

Miramichi or to some of the harbours in the Baie. 

This county is subdivided into five Parishes, viz. : — 
Saumarez, Bathurst, Beresford, Jlddington and Eldon ; is 
watered by several large rivers ; contains many good 
harbours, and comprehends an extensive tract of well 
timbered country. On these and all other particulars, 
I shall, in its proper place, furnish as much, and as ac- 
curate information as I can. 



CHAPTER II. 



EARLY HISTORY. 



Although Cartier discovered Lai Baie des Chaleurs, as 
early as 1534, it appears that the French government 
allowed more than a century to elapse, before they paid 
any attention to it. 

This apparent neglect, so irreconcilable with the 
views and policy of a nation, proverbially ambitious and 
fond of dominion, may be traced to these two causes. 
The South side was, like the rest of Nova- Scotia, a con- 
tinual bone of contention, alternately changing its pro- 
prietorship from France to Great Britain, and from Great 
Britain to France, And although the Northern side was 
the bona fide property of the French, it did not possess 
sufficient attractions to claim particular attention. 

It is said, that during the reign of Henry II. of France, 
the son of Francis I., who was cotemporary with our 



COUNTY OF 167 

Henry the Eighth, that an attempt was made to form a 
settlement about Perce, in the district of Gaspe. This 
may be true, for at that time, France was in a very 
flourishing condition, while England was torn asunder 
by civil and religious feuds. The French arms, direct- 
ed by the Duke of Guise, had been alike successful 
against the Germans, the Spaniards, and the English, 
from the latter of whom, they retook Calais, which had 
been an appendage to Great Britain, from the reign of 
Edward III. The strength of England, moreover, re- 
ceived a temporary check from circumstances, with 
which every general reader is intimate. 

The reformation had but dawned ; the youthful Ed- 
ward was scarcely cold in the newly made grave of his 
father ; the kingdom had but escaped from the turbulent 
regency of the Duke of Somerset ; the public mind was 
agitated by polemical theology ; the right of Royal suc- 
cession was disputed ; the blood of Lord Dudley, and 
Lady Jane Grey, purpled on the scaffold ; Wyat's insur- 
rection inflamed the people ; the intrigues of Cardinal 
Pole impaired the energies of the nation; the conjugal 
relationship between Mary and Philip excited distrust 
and jealousy ; and the bloody syllogisms of the Queen 
spread dismay over the country. Considering then, the 
relative state of the two nations, at this period, it is not 
unlikely, that a settlement had been attempted in Gasp£, 
by the French. It never arrived to maturity, however, 
possibly on account of the king's death, which happen- 
ed in 1559. 



16S COUNTY OF 

From this period until the reign of Louis the. Thir- 
teenth, it cannot be supposed that so remote a country 
as this, would be honoured by any particular notice. 
During* this time, a space of more than sixty years, the 
whole policy of France was a system of dissimulation, 
treachery, and murder. In the reign of Francis II., the 
husband of Mary Queen 6f Scots, the executive power 
was engrossed by the House of Guise ; and the minority 
of Charles IX. was distinguished by assassinations, con- 
federacies, plots, and counterplots, instigated by the in- 
famo is Catherine de Medicis,whiie his sanguinary reign, 
polluted by the Batholomew Massacre, closed in blood, 
at the opening of a fifth civil war. 

In 1638, five years before the death of Louis the Thir- 
teenth, a Mons. Jean Jacques Enaud, to whom I have 
already alluded in my account of Northumberland, is 
said to have settled in this county. This tradition is, I 
think, entitled to credibility, the more so, when we con- 
sider, that Nova-Scotia, then belonged to the French, 
both by purchase, and the treaty of Saint Germains ; 
and that the crafty and ambitious Richelieu was Prime 
Minister of France. Mons. Enaud was, as I have al- 
ready observed, a native of Basque, in France ; the very 
place where the gallant Cochrane blew up the French 
fleet ; and cancelled by his chivalrous and daring valour, 
the disgrace we sustained at Walcheren. 

It is said that Mr. E. was. in rather affluent circum- 
stances ; that he was nearly related to the then Go- 



GLOUCESTER. 169 

vernor of Quebec ; and that he had a seignorial title or 
grant, of all the land lying between the East end of 
Grande Anee, and the entrance of Jacquet river. Very 
little is known of this man ; but it is said that he had 
many followers ; that he distributed them round Ba- 
thurst harbour ; that he carried on an extensive fur 
trade with the Indians ; and that he had his principal 
establishment, where Mr. Deblois now has his. 

It is also affirmed that he resided on Abshaboo y or Coal 
Point, as the high land at the mouth of the Nipisiguit, 
where Packard's Hotel now is, was then called ; and 
that he had a large Grist Mill on the stream running 
through the marsh, now owned by Mr. Deblois, and 
formerly granted to A. Gold, Esq. How long this gen- 
tleman resided in Bathurst, cannot be ascertained ; but 
it is said that he was married to a Mohawk woman of 
distinction ; , and that in consequence of some private 
pique, he was murdered by one of her brothers. This 
outrage becoming the signal for a concerted violence 
against the whole colony, such of Enaud's followers as 
were fortunate enough to escape, had to fly to Saint 
John's Island. 

That Mr. Enaud, although represented as rather opu- 
lent, should have married an Indian, ought to excite no 
surprise, for that alliance was the most effectual way of 
propitiating them ; besides, it is confidently asserted, 
that the French government liberally paid the parties 
contracting such alliances. 



170 COUNTY OF 

Although this calamity dispersed the French, they re- 
turned again ; for about the year 1670, the grandfather 
of Mr. Charles Doucette, of Bathurst, settled on the Lit- 
tle River ; and at that time, there were French settle- 
ments all around the harbour, and down the Bay, to- 
wards Grande Ance, andCaraquette. The people, then, 
appeared to be in comfortable circumstances ; there 
were no merchants ; and agriculture seemed to be rather 
extensively cultivated. 

About the year 1692, a total dispersion of the French 
took place. The Micmacs of this country, over whom 
presided an influential fellow named Halion, becoming 
jealous of the increase of the settlers, possessed them- 
selves of the greater part of their stock ; demolished all 
their houses and buildings, and obliged them to quit the 
country altogether. When we consider that Bathurst 
was the immediate boundary of both the Micmac and 
Mohawk nations, and that the former made a vigorous 
attack on Canso, thirty years afterwards, their hostility 
in the present instance should excite no astonishment. 

Although the French government overlooked this vio- 
lent conduct of the Indians, they cannot be accused of 
any apathy or indifference, for the country did not then 
belong to them. It had been lately taken from them by 
Sir William Phipps, because they had not paid a cer- 
tain stipulated sum, agreeably to the treaty of Breda. 
Under these circumstances, the French were in fact 
gainers by the hostility of the Indians ; for it served to 



GLOUCESTER. 171 

increase the population of Canada, and other places of 
which they were in full enjoyment, while it tended to 
weaken Nova Scotia, where their power had always 
been both brief and equivocal. 

From the expulsion of the French, until six or eight 
years after the taking of Quebec, nothing particular 
occurred. About this time, a Mr. Walker, from the 
North of Scotland, and who was commonly called Com- 
modore Walker, arrived in the Bay ; and formed an ex- 
tensive establishment on Alston Point, on the North side 
of Bathurst harbor. This gentleman came attended by 
several adherents, among whom were a Mr. John 
Young, an Englishman, and a Mr. Robertson, a native 
of Morayshire, in Scotland. The former married an In- 
dian, and is now dead ; the latter is still living at the 
advanced age of 94. 

At Alston Point, Mr. Walker had a splendid and ele^ 
gantly furnished summer residence ; also five large 
Stores ; a requisite number of out-houses ; and a tole- 
rably strong battery. Here also had he a very fine lawn 
and a handsomely disposed garden. At Youghall, 
near the head of the harbour, he had another large 
dwelling, house, which he occupied in winter, besides a 
fishing establishment on the Big River, about 3 miles 
from its entrance. At this time, Mr. W. engrossed the 
whole trade of the Bay, then consisting of an extensive 
exportation of Furs, Moose Skins, and the hides, fat, and 
tusks of the Walrus. To these general exports he usu- 



$2 COUNTY OF 

ally added : — an annual cargo of Salmon, and Bometimes 
two or three of Cod and Scale Fish, to the West Indies, 
and the Mediterranean. 

This gentleman continued, both by Ins example and 
influence, to advance and improve the country, until his 
spirited and beneficial enterprize, was interrupted by the 
war between Great Britain and her revolted Colonies. 

Shortly after the commencement of this rupture, some 
of the Revolutionary Privateers entered the Bay, and' 
wreaked their vengeance upon Alston Point, and all 
the other settlements. Having taken and destroyed 
upwards of £10,000 worth of property here, they pro- 
ceeded to Restigouche, where Walker had another es- 
tablishment under the direction of a Mr. Smith. After 
committing similar depredations there, the Privateers 
were proceeding down the Bay, when two English gun- 
brigs, the Wolf, and the Diligence, intercepted them. 
An engagement took place off Roc Perce, near which, 
two of the American vessels were sunk, the rest having 
endeavoured to escape. 

After this affair, Walker returned to England, and 
was, upon his representation of the state, condition, and 
resources of the country, appointed to a subordinate 
command, under the Admiral on the North American 
station. When the expedition entrusted to his care 
was about to sail, it is said he died of apoplexy. Of 
this gentleman, whom we may denominate the first 



GLOUCESTER. 173 

English settler in Gloucester, I shall relate a few parti- 
culars supplied by his co-temporaries. 

Mr. Walker was an Officer in the British Navy, and 
served with great credit as a Lieutenant, under Admi- 
rals Hosier, and Knowles. Under the former, he as- 
sisted at the taking of Porto Bello from the Spaniards ; 
and attached to the latter, he aided Captain Howe, of 
the Magnanime, in capturing the Isle de Aix, from the 
French. 

The whole lucrative gum trade, from Cape Blanco, 
to the River Gambia, being monopolized by the French, 
who had built Fort Louis within the mouth of the Sene- 
gal ; and had fortified the Island of Goree, on the coast ; 
it became a matter of serious and public complaint in 
England, that our merchants and manufacturers were 
obliged to buy gum second hand from the Dutch, who 
forestalled it for the French at an exorbitant price. These 
considerations having a tendency to accelerate the adop- 
tion of a plan, formed by a Mr. Cumming, a Quaker, for 
annexing Senegal to Great Britain, an expedition under 
his command, was despatched for that purpose. 

This little armament, consisting of the two annual 
Guinea traders ; and three small sloops, with a detach- 
ment of soldiers, and a few pieces of ordnance, sailed in 
1757 ; and to it, was Captain Walker appointed Engi- 
neer. The English, assisted by the Moorish Prince 
Amir, succeeded in taking Fort Louis, and Senegal, by 
which his Britannic Majesty acquired a valuable tract of 



/ 

174 COUNTY OF 

country, besides 100 pieces of cannon, with treasures 
and merchandize to a considerable amount. To these 
splendid results, the skill and intrepidity of the Engi- 
neer greatly contributed. 

After the arrival of the expedition in England, Captain 
Walker was honored by a London Company, with the 
command of five smart Privateers, equipped for the pur- 
pose of annoying the Spaniards. In this service he 
greatly distinguished himself by making several rich 
prizes ; but being a man of improvident habits, it issaid 
that he made bat little for himself y and that he was at 
length discharged for imprudently engaging a Spanish 
Galleon, by which his own ship, the Amelia, was much 
injured, and another of his fleet blown up. 

Involved by this disappointment, he became a pri- 
soner in the King's Bench, where he remained for a con- 
siderable time, until through the interference of some of 
his friends, he was at length released, and established 
at Bathurst, as we have already mentioned. 

The present French, or Acadian inhabitants of thi3 
country, are principally from Cape Breton, Saint John's 
Island, and Cumberland. The oldest settlement, inde- 
pendently of those founded by Enaud and Walker, is Ca- 
raquette, where, it appears, two brothers of the name 
of La Roc, from Lunaire, and two others called La 
Burton, and St. John, natives of Bretagne, located them- 
selves about the year 1768. ' 



CHAPTER III. 



Description of the coast, villages, and settlements, from Traca- 
die to Bass River. 



Having passed Taboointac gully, on our way towards 
Miscou Point, the first rivers we meet in the County of 
Gloucester, are Great and Little Tracadie ; both of 
which, after running parallel courses of nearly 40 miles, 
discharge into the Gulf through a spacious lagoon. 

This Lagoon is nearly 12 miles in length ; and in some 
places 3 miles wide. The entrance of each river is a 
small outlet or bar, formed by estuation, and over which 
at the highest spring tides, there is seldom more than 7 
or 8 feet of water. These channels, though shallow, 
would, had they a permanent locality, be of considera- 
ble service to the settlers ; but as they are continually 
oscillating, their navigation is both limited and intricate. 



176 COUNTY OF 

The waters of the lagoon, being seperated from the gulf, 
by only a narrow stripe of sand, occasion this inconve- 
nient mutation. 

The Great and Little Tracadie Rivers have a Lake- 
like appearance ; and run through a level country, of 
rather a sandy description, but tolerably well wooded 
witl\,white and red pine. On both these rivers consi- 
derable quantities of timber have been manufactured, 
and sent to Miramichi, for shipment. 

Great and Little Tracadie contain 110 houses, dispers- 
ed along the tide way ; and occupied by 860 souls, al- 
most exclusively Acadian French. On the former there 
is a neat wooden chapel, having a pulpit and gallery, 
besides a handsome Altar piece of Saint John the Baptist, 
occupying the centre of a small collection of pictures. 
The inhabitants live principally by agriculture and 
fishing, doing, in the former, but very little ; and em- 
ploying in the latter, 35 boats, and 3 shallops. All their 
cured fish is sent to Miramichi. 

Pockmouche rises near the Jlnscout, a branch of the 
Great Tracadie ; is about thirty miles in length, of rather 
a sluggish cast ; and crawls into the gulf over a soft and 
ample bed. From its source down to the head of the 
tide, this river is skirted by narrow tracts of intervale, 
stretching along the base of a tolerably good upland, 
formerly well timbered with white pine, birch, and 
maple ; and in the tide way, a considerable expansion 



GLOUCESTER. m 

forms a number of creeks and gullies, watering large 
patches of salt marsh. This river now contains a hori- 
zontal Saw Mill, a small Chanel, one day School, and 
65 dwelling houses. The inhabitants, amounting to 350 
souls, consist of Irish and French, and are principally 
occupied in lumbering and agriculture. 

From this to Miscou, a distance probably of 30 miles, 
the coast is dull, tame, and monotonous ; alike unche- 
quered by a single feature, capable of either employing 
the pen, or engaging the attention. 

Miscou Island, theN. E. end of which is emphatically 
called Point Miscou, forms the Southern entrance of the 
Baie des Chaleurs. This Island lies in deep water ; is 
21 miles in circumference, and is the first New-Bruns- 
wick land, looked -for by vessels, bound to any of the 
ports in Gloucester. 

"Before the capture of Quebec, the French had an in- 
corporated fishing establishment on this Island ; and of 
which, some remains are still visible. It is now resort- 
ed to, as a favourite fishing station, by both Americans 
and British ; and it is an incontrovertible fact, that here, 
do the former frequently cure the fish, that they take' 
upon neutral ground. 

The Americans also resort to Shippegan harbour, 
where, under cover of an ambiguous law, -do they often 

drefraud the revenue, by illicit commerce* Indeed, I 

23 



173 COUNTY OF 

have heard it alleged, that they often directly barter 
with the inhabitants, giving them in lieu for green fish, 
brandy, rum, tobacco, tea, &c. brought in their own 
bottoms, either from some port in the United States, or 
from St. Pierre. If this be true, Uncle Sam has certain- 
ly the laugh against us, for it is rather difficult to con- 
ceive a toleration _more extraordinary, than that one 
nation should allow another, all the profits derivable 
from a contraband trade, carried on in their own har- 
bours, and to the prejudice of their own industry. 

The Americans are also accused of wilfully injuring 
the fishery, by throwing the offal overboard in shoal 
water. This is rather an invidious proceeding, for the 
New-Brunswick boats, are, from circumstances, often 
unable to fish in deep water, while by the above con- 
duct, they are precluded from deriving any advantage 
from the shore fishery. These injuries are committed 
under the specious sanction- of a treaty, that allows the 
Americans to fish within three miles of the land ; a pro- 
vision, than which, a more foolish one never was enact- 
ed. Restricting them to this distance is a senseless 
condition^ for our own fishermen rarely take any thing, 
within the same extent beyond the line of demarcation. 

Miscou Island is much indented \ by creeks and gul^ 
lies ; but a deep cove or basin; called Mall Bay, is the 
only place of shelter, even for boats. Here are some 
very extensive tracts of marsh meadow land, capable, 
without any improvement, of supporting upwards of 



GLOUCESTER. in 

1,000 head of cattle, Miscou also contains a considera- 
ble quantity "of black birch, spruce, and maple ; and is 
calculated to absorb from 60 to 70 families. 

Little Shippegan Harbor is formed by an estuary of 
5 miles wide, running round the west end of Miscou Is- 
land. This is a good harbour, having a safe channel of 
2 miles in width, with excellent anchorage in 4 and 5 
fathoms. To this harbour there are two entrances ;one 
in the Bate ties Chaleurs, the other in the Gulf of Saint 
Lawrence. The former is bold and open ;' easy of ac- 
cess ; and sufficiently deep for large vessels ; the latter 
is narrow ; intricate and shoal, and capable of admitting 
only boats and small craft. 

Grand Shippegan Harbor. — This harbour lies 22 
miles west of Point Miscou ; and almost directly oppo- 
site to Port Danielf on the North side of the Bay. The 
entrance is formed by Shippegan Island on the East, 
and Pouckcoudie on the West. It is a safe commodious 
harbour, having a fine broad channel, plenty of shelter, 
and good anchorage in five and six fathoms. This har- 
bour also possesses an entrance on the Gulf side ; but 
it should not be attempted by vessels dra wing more than 
six or seven feet. 

Shippegan Island is about 20 miles long, but rather 
low and sandy. The soiHs a light frisible loam, produ- 
cing small Birch, Fir, Shrubs, and a variety of berries. 
It also yields a fair average crop of wheat, potatoes, and 
oats, which the inhabitants raise in small quantities. 



ISO COUNTY OF. 

On the west end of the Island, are two small settle- 
ments called Big and Little Amacque ; and on the main 
land opposite, is another, called Shippegan, the whole 
aggregating probably, a population of 700 souls, princi- 
pally Acadian French. The almost exclusive pursuit is 
the Cod fishery, in which they employ about thirty 
large open boats, manned with four or five men each ; 
besides twelve schooners, carrying eight men each. The 
boats are constructed like whale boats ; and generally 
fish off Miscou ; but the schooners resort to the Bra- 
delle Bank, in the Gulf ; and to some shoals lying near 
Prinee Edward's Island. The boats return every twen- 
ty four hours ; the schooners generally, keeping at sea 
eight days together. In this way are two hundred 
fishermen, natives of Shippegan, employed ; while 
there is also a considerable number retained' in the ser- 
vice of Mr. Duval, a Jersey merchant, lately establish- 
ed here. This gentleman loads two brigs annually 
with Cod fish ; but the quantity actually cured in 
Shippegan, rarely exceeds 4,000 quintals a year. 

Big and Little Amacque, are highly celebrated for 
their superior Oysters, a considerable quantity of which 
is annually shipped to Quebec and Halifax ; and Saint 
Simoi's Bay, a deep inlet, washing the west end of the 
Island, is said to have derived its name from that of a 
French Corvette, sunk there after the conquest of Ca- 
nada. At Big Amacque there is a tolerably good Grist 
Mill ; and at Shippegan, a Roman Catholic Chapel, 



GLOUCESTER. 18J 

which, as well as those at Pockmouche, and Tracadie, is 
attended by the resident missionary of Caraquette. 

Caraquette Harbour and Settlement. — This har- 
bour, the entrance whereof is formed by Pouckcoudie 
Island, and the East end of Caraquette Island, lies 
about SO miles West of Miscou ; and is six miles long 3 
and three miles wide. From each of the Islands a large 
shoal extends into the Bay ; but between them is a good 
safe channel, having at low water, from four to five fa- 
thoms. Almost every chart I have seen, erroneously des- 
cribe the entrance of this harbour. They invariably 
place it between the West end of Caraquette Island, and 
Point Mizzinette, where there are but 6 or GJ feet at low 
water. This, however, is a very convenient entrance for 
small trading vessels, as it is much easier made than the 
main one, which should in no case be attempted without 
a Pilot. 

These three harbours are as good as any in the Bay, 
except Restjgouche ; and were timber but a little more 
plentiful in their vicinity, their capabilities would be of 
the utmost importance. 

Caraquette Settlement is a long populous village, 
extending for more than ten miles along the shore of 
the Bay. About 150 houses, glittering over this extent, 
acquire a considerable degree of picturesque beauty, 
from a number of corn fields and meadows that surround 
them ; and from the lofty spire of a very elegant Cha- 



182 COUNTY 07 

pel, rising in the midst of them. Several of the houses 
being built of stone, make a very respectable appear- 
ance ; while the general aspect of the settlement informs 
the traveller, that the people enjoy a kind of pastoral 
mediocrity, alike removed from the anxieties of opulence, 
and the ills of penury. 

The Chapel is a handsome stone building ; is capable 
of holding about 800 persons ; and is highly ornamented 
by appropriate devices, and scriptural pieces. This com- 
paratively splendid edifice, was reared by the voluntary 
contributions of the people ; and is supposed to have 
cost upwards of £1,400. 

At the upper end of the village, is the scite of the old 
Chapel, a spot, than which, a more delightful cannot be 
easily conceived. It is the immediate brow of a maid- 
enly eminence that spreads into a fine parterre, covered 
with a rich carpet of green sward, elegantly diapered 
with mosses and wild flowers. Round this delightful 
little plain, a luxuriant forest of Birch and Maple, fes- 
tooned by two small Beech groves, fling a gorgeous halo 
of sylvan drapery ; while the mellow cadences of a lit- 
tle stream, issuing from the crevices of a rock at a short 
distance, mingle their accents with the floating melody 
of a balmy wind. 

The soft and pastoral beauties of this sweet retreat, 
acquire additional charms from contrast. Its mild and 
serene loveliness forms an amiable and pleasing relief, 



1 



GLOUCESTER. 163 

to .the rude and precipitous appearance of the opposite 
shore ; while its graceful and modest scenery receives 
dignity and elegance from the arrogant and frowning 
aspect of the Canadian mountains. It also commands 
a fine view of the harbour of Caraquette ; of the Ports 
of Miscou and Shippegan ; of the vessels in the Bay ; 
and of the principal settlements in the district of Gaspe. 
In fine, it is a vivid picture of moral, as well as natural 
beauty ; every thing about it seems to be hallowed, 
and although not a vestige of the church is visible, re- 
ligion appears to linger round its former precincts, as if 
unwilling to depart. 

Two rivers, the North and South, both rising in 
Lakes, discharge into Caraquette harbour- The former 
is about nine miles long, runs through poor swampy 
land, and has no settlers : the latter is 24 miles in 
length, flows through good land, thinly covered with 
dispersed pine, birch, and maple, and affords a comfort- 
able residence to a few families. 

The land in the vicinity of the Village, being very 
fertile, is highly favourable to the cultivation of all 
kinds of grain ; a circumstance often profitably demon- 
strated, by the production of as good wheat, oats, and 
barley, as are generally raised in any other part of Ame- 
rica. 

The inhabitants, amounting probably to more than 
1200 souls, are nearly all Acadians ; and are apparently 



184 COUNTY OF 

in easy circumstances, acquired by a tolerably extensive 
prosecution of fishing and agriculture. In the former they 
employ 100 small boats, manned with two men each ; 
besides six schooners of the same description, as those 
belonging to Shippegan. 

Caraquette,as I have elsewhere observed, is rather an 
old settlement, the cause, perhaps, why its inhabitants 
particularly the women, exhibit more of the colour and 
features of the Micmac Indians, than is generally dis- 
cernable in Acadians. This personal distinction, how- 
ever, is also observable at Petit Roche, another French 
settlement farther up the Bay ; and there is little doubt, 
that the peculiarity in both cases, is" the result of the 
early settlers having intermarried with the savages. 

From this to Bathurst, a distance of more than 25 
miles, the land is bold, steep, and iron-girt. It contains 
several excellent grind stone quarries ; some large beds 
of ochre ; and in several places, strata of coal, disposed 
in horizontal layers. These strata, or beds, appear to 
commence about 5 feet above the land wash ; thence 
ascending in equal and regular grades, to within a short 
distance of the surface. Large detached lumps of this 
mineral, as well as course specimens of metallic sub- 
stances, strew the beach in a variety of places. 

In this district, the interior for about six miles back, 
is very good land. The rear of the front, or granted 
lots, is covered principally with large birch and maple ; 



/ 



Gloucester. m 

while the same description of wood, with a mixture of 
beech, and pine, constitute the chief growth of the se- 
cond concession. Throughout these are distributed 
some maple sugaries ; interspersed with occasional 
groves of juniper, particularly adapted for ship-building. 
— The coast from Caraquette to Bathurst, is divided in- 
to three settlements, called Grande Ance, Pockshaw, 
and New Bandon, each of which, we shall notice as we 
proceed. 

Grand Ance, the next settlement west of Caraquette, 
is about 8 miles long, but very thinly settled, containing 
little more than 18 or 20 Acadian families, who live by 
agriculture and fishing. This straggling village has no 
harbour, nor is it possessed of any thing calculated to 
distinguish it, except a small wooden Chapel, and an in- 
significant Grist Mill. 

The East end of this settlement* and a considerable 
distance above that line, are sometimes called the Capes, 
or Pockshaw. Here, has the shore a repulsive and for- 
bidding aspect ; for a range of cliffs, nearly perpendicu- 
lar, and upwards of 60 feet high, form a sort of embra- 
sured battlement, extending for several miles in length. 
This embankment afFords considerable shelter to the set- 
tlement ; and beneficent nature, as if willing to confer 
the blessing unmixed by any alloy of inconvenience, has 
kindly formed, at nearly equal distances, four large ra- 
vines, winding from the summits of the cliffs, down to 
the level of the sea. These passages, facilitating a safe 

24 



180 COUNTY OF 

and easy communication with the water, are of the 
greatest service to the settlers. In addition to many 
other advantages, they enable them to obtain fish for 
sustenance, and kelp for manure. Through this settle- 
ment two rivers discharge into the Bay ; on one of them, 
Mr. Young has lately erected a Saw Mill ; and on the 
other, there is a tolerably good Grist Mill. 

New Bandon, the next Westerly settlement, may be 
said to extend to Bathurst. It is of recent formation, the 
first settler not being more than 14 years in occupation. 
The inhabitants, consisting of 70 families, are princi- 
pally Irish emigrants, from Bandon, in the County of 
Cork. Several of them are Methodists, who seem, al- 
though long separated from the clergymen of their own 
profession, to have suffered little or no estrangement from 
God. They did not, as too many do, abjure their reli- 
gion, when they left Cape Clear. Edified by a science 
that instructs the heart, convinces the mind, and dis- 
ciplines the will, their conduct is an eloquent vindication 
of the doctrines, preached and established by the pious 
and venerable Wesley. 

New Bandon, although but a young, is a flourishing 
settlement. The soil is good, and the people have, by 
unremitting industry, good management, and an exclu- 
sive attention to agriculture, succeeded in raising thenv 
selves from comparative poverty, to a respectable pro- 
prietorship of land and cattle. Some of them have 50 
acres under cultivation ; all are well provided with stock 



GLOUCESTER. 1S7 

and utensils ; and the average arable quantity belong- 
ing to each family, may be rated at half the above size. 
The principal market isBathurst ; but when this is sup- 
plied, any residuary surplus may be easily disposed of 
up the Bay. 

Bass River. — About a mile below Carron Point, at 
the entrance of Bathurst harbour, does this river de- 
bouche into the Bay. Eleven miles from its mouth it 
diverges into two branches, one running North, the 
other South . The former can be driven for 4 or 5 miles ; 
but the latter is almost totally impassable. The banks 
of the main river, are a good description of upland, well 
timbered with white pine ; and skirted by large inter- 
vales, sustaining unusually tali alders. 



CHAPTER IV. 



Description o/Bqthurst Harbour and Settlement, 



Bathurst, situated about 55 miles W. of Miscou, is 
what is commonly called a Bar Harbour. The entrance 
is formed by Alston Point on the North side, and Car- 
ron Point on the South ; the distance across being little 
more than 230 yards. 

A short distance outside of these points, lies the Bar, 
a small narrow ridge of sand, holding at spring tides, 
from 15 to \b\ feet of water. A safe and easy channel, 
running between this shoal and the entrance, furnishes 
the general place of loading ; but vessels exceeding 14 
feet draught, generally take in part of their cargo outside 
of it, where there is a safe Bay, or Roadstead, with deep 
water and good holding ground. 



GLOUCESTER. 189 

Within the points, the harbour may be called a beau- 
tiful and picturesque basin, forming nearly an elliptical 
sheet of water, 3 J miles long, and 2 miles wide. It is 
well sheltered from all winds ; and is supplied by four 
rivers, which discharge into it ; and by their confluence 
form what is called the main channel, in contradistinc- 
tion to the respective channel of each of them. 

Up all these channels, boats and small craft may pro- 
ceed for a considerable distance ; but the main one 
contains 14 feet ; and runs in rather a direct course, 
until it flows into the passage, at the entrance, and 
thence over the bar. Availing themselves of this cir- 
cumstance, those who are acquainted with, or will be 
persuaded of the capabilities of the Basin, load as fre- 
quently within it> as they do outside of it. 

Bathurst contains an immense stock of as good tim- 
ber as any in the Province ; is provided with skilful pi- 
lots ; exacts very moderate port charges ; is under the 
superintendance of a judicious Harbour Master ; and 
may, from these considerations, as well as from a gene- 
ral view of its capacities, be considered an eligible har- 
bour, for the smaller class of vessels, employed in the 
North American timber trade. 

SETTLEMENT. 

The Basin of Bathurst, and the largest of the rivers 
that discharge into it, were originally distinguished by 
the JMkmacs, under the general and expressive appella- 



r90 COUNTY OF 

tion of Winkapiguwick, or the troubled and foaming' wa- 
ters. In the course of time, this name degenerated in- 
to the corrupt and unmeaning soubriquet of Nipisiguit ; 
that was subsequently changed into Saint Peters, by 
the French ; and for its present one, it is indebted to a 
township, lately erected on the N. side of it, which was, 
in compliment to the then Colonial Secretary, called 
Bathurst. 

This is the Assizes Town ; and is designed to occupy 
a level and elevated point of land, laterally bathed by 
two large rivers. It was laid out but four years ago, 
when it had but four or five small houses ; now it con- 
tains an elegant Brick Court House, roofed with slate ; 
also a temporary Episcopal Chapel, besides a Gaol, Post 
Office, three or four mercantile establishments ; and up- 
wards of thirty dwelling houses. 

All round the basin is thickly inhabited, particularly 
towards the upper end of it. Here there is'a small set- 
tlement called the French village, consisting of a range 
of houses dispersed along the side of a hill, crowned by 
a neat little chapel, and two or three rustic wind mills. 

The land being rather high, and tolerably well culti- 
vated, the whole settlement resembles a lake, surround- 
ed by an embroidered belt of meadows and corn fields, 
gemmed with houses, and bordered by trees. The soil 
is a composition of clay and gravel, impartially distribu- 
ted ; and is very favourable to the cultivation of wheat, 
oats, potatoes, and all the various kinds of ground crops. 



GLOUCESTER. 191 

The population of Bathurst amounts to upwards of 
600 souls, involving nearly an equal mixture of Acadian 
French, and British Emigrants. Their ordinary pur- 
suits comprehend a tolerably extensive Lumbering, some 
Farming, and a limited business in the Fisheries : and 
from these three branches do they appear to acquire a 
comfortable, and in some instances, a respectable living. 

An Account of the Rivers discharging into Bathurst Harbour. 

The big Nipisiguit. — This river winds over a great 
extent of the Northern part of the Province, and ap- 
pears to be a line of contact, intervening between a re- 
gion of Sandstone to the Eastward ; and a part of the 
vast granitic range of the Alleghanies. It proceeds from 
a chain of Lakes, the head of which is connected with 
the little Tobique Lake, by a portage of 3 miles. Its 
computed length is from 95 to 100 miles, flowing with 
great rapidity over a rocky and calcareous bed, until 
it rolte into Bathurst harbour, at the East end of the 
town. 

At its source, and for 40 miles thence downwards, the 
land on both sides is very high ; in some places it is 
quite perpendicular, in others but very partially inclined. 
Here there is scarcely any level or plain ; for close upon 
the rear of the banks, the land swells into lofty moun- 
tains, which seem to terminate the chain, extending 
from the Restigouche in a southerly direction. Some 
of these mountains, are, in their geology and other pro- 
perties, similar to the northern ones. Many of them are 



192 COUNTY OF 

well wooded, and appear to have a granitic base } others 
have a freestone bottom, and are quite bald. For this 
space, the whole face of the country is a dense forest of 
large white and red pine, streaked with long ridges of 
hard wood. At the bottom of the Lakes, it receives a 
large branch proceeding from towards the head of the 
Upsalquitch ; and about 5 or 6 miles lower down, it ab- 
sorbs another, called Silver River, a cognomen by 
which the Indians distinguish it, from a belief that it 
contains silver ore. 

It receives several others, particularly on the North 
side, the most considerable of which, are Portage Brook, 
the Laskoodich, the Parbooktitch, and the Pabineau. — 
At the head of the first, it is connected by a portage with 
a branch of the Upsalquitch ; and the latter issues from 
a romantic and beautiful little Lake, filling the cavity of 
a small mountain. All these are tolerably large streams, 
well timbered, and good for driving. 

About sixty miles from its source, the land, though 
high, becomes smooth and level ; and appears, as far as 
the eye can reach, to be thickly covered with a mixed 
growth, of white, and red pine, birch, and maple. From 
here to where the narrows commence, probably 8 or 10 
miles, the country presents a delightful prospect. A few 
very remote mountains, peering like the turrets of an 
ancient capital, elegantly define the shadows of the pic- 
ture ; while the stately growth and splendid attire of the 
forest, coupled with a number of small Islands, sprinkled 



GLOUCESTER. 193 

over the river, form a rich and animated foreground. 
Ere the sensations inspired by this view, have time to 
subside, another, but more magnificent one, bursts upon 
the vision, and buoys the feelings into extacy. Having 
glided through the narrows, a straight gut of 5 miles 
long, and embanked by very high and steep rocks of 
blue stone or slate, we arrive at the Grand Falls * 

This is a large cascade, stretching nearly across the 
whole river. It consists of an extensive bed of coarse 
granite, commencing a little above the narrows, and ex- 
tending to the end of them. Here, its surface, all the 
way gradually approaching towards the top of the wa- 
ter, pierces through it to a considerable height, present- 
ing in its front, an abrupt and tremendous precipice of 
one hundred and forty feet above the bed of the river. 
This descent consists" of four distinct falls, resembling a 
rude flight of steps, over which, an immense body of wa- 
ter, breaking from the trammels that fettered it, rushes 
with indescribable velocity ; dashing its sparkling foam 
all round it ; and celebrating the triumph of its freedom 
by apalling and deafening roars. At the bottom of the 
precipice all is noise and tumult, resulting as it were, 
from a violent conflict of some hidden agencies, strug- 
gling to force their way through a yawning whirlpool.—*- 
Upon a second view, the mind still clinging to analogy, 
will liken it to some huge cauldron, maddened into more 
than boiling rage, by the application of intolerable heat. 

* These rocks projecting to a considerable distance, present strong lateral 
repellents, which restrain, the course of the river, within, the breaflth of 40 or 
50 yards. 

25 



194 COUNTY OF 

From this pit, gulf, or whatever else you please to call 
it, issues a thick sheet of curled and crested foam, which 
spreading over the river for two or three miles, furious- 
ly lashes both sides of it. 

I have said this much, concerning a natural pheno- 
menon, very little known ; not presuming to give a des- 
cription of it, but that the reader may form some idea 
of its general character. And that I may the better 
succeed in this design, I shall observe, enpassant, that it 
is the largest of the kind, in either Nova-Scotia or New- 
Brunswick ; that it greatly resembles a cataract near 
the City of Gottenburgh, in Sweden ; and that it may, 
with propriety, be called a magnificent minature of the 
Falls of Niagara. But this cataract, though it beauti- 
fies the scenery of the river, considerably lessens the 
value of its natural resources. By it is the navigation 
obstructed ; and the timber made above it often serious- 
ly injured. 

The timber is generally hurled through the air, and 
sent whirling beyond the precipice, and through the 
foam I have described ; but occasionally some sticks 
are arrested by the top of the precipice, and these are 
either cleft into two, or shivered into pieces upon the 
projections beneath. I shall say no more ; let the lo- 
vers of nature go and see. The Grand Falls of the JVipi- 
sigitit, are but 20 miles from Bathurst, a pretty little 
town, where they will find two or three obliging Boni- 
faces, and as many well-spread tables at a moderate rate. 



GLOUCESTER. 196 

About 3 miles above its debouchure, the course of this 
river is again interrupted by a dispersion of small rocks, 
over which the water rolls with considerable impetuo- 
sity. Many of these rocks appear as if recently detach- 
ed, and are of the same description as those at the falls. 
— We may add that there is a great deal of excellent 
timber, as well as good land on the Big JNipisiguit ; that 
at present it contains but six or seven families ; and 
that a large population might be comfortably located 
on it. 

The Middle River is a considerable stream ; is .pret- 
ty well timbered ; waters rather a fertile soil ; has a 
few settlers located about its entrance ; and forms a 
junction with the Big River, nearly opposite the town. 

The Tootoogoose, or Fairy River. This is a small 
but beautiful river, the romantic and sylph-like appear- 
ance whereof, justify the application of the name by 
which it is distinguished. It rises in a lake, about 25 
miles from its mouth, and by an exceedingly devious 
course, winds over a clear rocky bottom, until it rushes 
out on the north side of the harbor. About half a mile 
from the entrance, is Somerset Vale, the residence of 
Hugh Munro, Esq. the present Chief Magistrate of the 
County, and formerly its representative in the General 
Assembly. This beautiful retreat reposes in the bosom 
of a grove of small pines, feathering the precincts of a 
skillfully disposed and well cultivated farm, which like 
an Jlosis, smiles upon the wilderness, from which years 
of unremitting industry have reclaimed it. 



196 COUNTY OF 

A short distance in the rear of Mr. Munro's, are two 
excellent Quarries ; one of hard durable Freestone ; 
the other of fine blue Slate The slate quarry appears 
to be very extensive, and to judge by its contexture, 
rather deeply laminated. Several excavations have 
been lately made, and from them, has the Court House, 
at Bathurst, been roofed. As the slate and stone are 
unquestionably of an excellent description, these quar- 
ries may yet become a very valuable acquisition. 

About seven miles above Somerset Vale, there is a 
rapid cascade of nearly twenty feet elevation ; and a 
little higher up, is a small, but respectable Scotch set- 
tlement lately commenced. The scenery here, and for 
a few miles towards the head of the river, presents a 
tolerably close resemblance to that of the Salmon Leap, 
a river near Leixslip, in the County of Dublin. The 
Tootoogoose comprises a great deal of good land, and 
still contains a considerable stock of white and red pine, 
of a good quality, but of small dimensions. 

The Little River flows through a tolerably good 
tract of land, and falls into the harbour, a short distance 
from the Tootoogoose. 



CHAPTER V. 



Description of the Country from B'athurst to Dalhousie. 

For four or five miles from Bathurst, the land is rather 
low, and the soil, a light sandy composition, with a dif- 
fusive interspersion of marshes. In this tract, there 
are hardly any settlers ; but from its head, to Dalhousie, 
a distance of nearly 50 miles, the shore is pretty thickly 
inhabited, chiefly by Acadian French, with an occa- 
sional insertion of Irish and Scotch emigrants. 

From this to Petit Roche, a village 12 miles from Bath- 
urst, the land is much higher, and the soil considerably 
better ; and thence, through Belledune, and on to the 
entrance of the Restigouche, it is a composition of dark 
clay and gravel, the former rather preponderating, in 
the structure of a fine argillaceous surface, covering a 
sub-formation of Limestone, Hard Blue Rock, and Granula- 
ted Freestone. 



193 COUNTY OF 

The shore all the way, though considerably elevated 
in many places, seems to shrink into insignificance, be- 
fore the lofty and towering mountains of the opposite 
side. It is pierced by several rivers and inlets, some of 
which, having deep entrances, sheltered by projections, 
form good snug harbours ; while extensive beds of kelp 
lying in their vicinity, provide the settlers with excellent 
manure. 

To an extent of 5 or 6 miles back, the land is tolera- 
bly level, and well adapted for cultivation ; but beyond 
that, it appears to be a confused mass of unequally sized 
mountains, apparently well timbered. Indeed, the 
whole interior, from a little in the rear of the North side 
of Bathurst Harbour, and thence North Westerly to- 
wards the Upsalquitch, is represented as being thickly 
wooded with large White Pine, intermixed with some 
red, and several dense ridges of Hardwood. Having 
exhibited this general outline of the country between 
Bathurst and Dalhousie ; we shall now give a brief 
description of the rivers and settlements contained 
in it. 

A description of the rivers discharging into the Bay, between 
Bathurst and Dalhousie ; and also an account of the differ- 
ent settlements along the shore. 

Peters River is an inconsiderable stream, shallow, 
dark, and muddy ; its banks, and its bosom, alike desti- 
tute of either attractions or resources. 

Little Nipisiguit affords some good White Pine ; is 
drivable for 5 or 6 miles ; and contains a small Saw Mill.. 



GLOUCESTER. 19* 

The Nickadaw has yielded some good lumber for the 
last four years ; and those now working on it, report 
having discovered several small groves of pine, a short 
distance from the stream. This river has a few small 
branches ; flows over a clear bottom ; and can be driven 
for 7 or Smiles. 

In the vicinity of this river, is the settlement of 
Petit Roche, a long straggling village, containing 120 
dwelling, houses, besides a tolerably large Chapel, 
with an attached cemetry. Although this settle- 
ment is of nearly thirty years standing, the largest farm 
in it does not exceed twelve acres of half cultivated land. 
The people appear to content themselves with raising a 
little Grain and Potatoes, upon which, with whatever 
Fish can be procured at the shore, do they endeavour to 
prolong a miserable existence. All the houses, with 
one exception, retain their primitive purity. They are 
not like the painted Sepulchres of the Pharisees, for they 
are as dirty and dingy without, as they are filthy and 
polluted within. Paint has never sullied their exterior; 
nor has the inside been often honoured with the applica- 
tion of water. The furniture of each house, consists of 
a large stove, flanked by a couple of cradles, and em- 
braced by a crescent of stools. Nor is the equipage a 
whit more distinguished for its simplicity, than the lar- 
der is for its poverty ; at least, so I found it ; for during 
an unavoidable sojourn of two days, the only delicate 
varieties I could procure, were potatoes and herrings ; 
and herrings and potatoes, 



200 COUNTY OF 

The painted exception to which I have alluded, is a 
tavern, pompously called the King's Jlrms, from a comi- 
cal daub of Royal Heraldry, vauntingly blazoned over 
the front door. A sort of piebald pattern embellishing 
the exterior, and superadded to the broken chairs, crip- 
pled tables, cracked tumblers, and headless decanters 
that ornament the inside, considerably dignify the Sign 
Board ; and confer a sort of solitary grandeur upon the 
splendid establishment of Mr. Charles Commeaux. Al- 
though the population of Petit Roche, amounts to up- 
wards of 800 souls, the greater part whereof, is below 
the age of puberty, the settlement has never been fa- 
voured with a school ; and hence, its most prominent 
traits, are ignorance, superstition,- and poverty. 

Elm Tree and Balledune Riveiis. These are tole- 
rably large streams, which head near each other, and 
then, by diverging into a variety of branches, wander 
through an extensive tract of rich land. They have 
for some years back, afforded considerable quantities of 
timber ; and each of them still contains a good supply. 
Between the entrances of these rivers, lies the settle^ 
ment of Belledune, extending nearly four miles in length. 
Nine years ago, and this place was a complete wilder- 
ness ; not a tree had been cut — not a rood reclaimed ; 
but now it contains twenty-one families comfortably 
located. When the first settlers arrived, as well as for 
two years afterwards, they often had to go to Petit 
Roche, or Bathurst, to obtain a single barrel of potatoes. 
But to exhibit in a still stronger light, the privations 



GLOUCESTER. 201 

these poor people had to endure ; as well as to shew the 
success that crowned their exertions ; I shall relate a 
circumstance told to me, by the individual concerned 
in it. 

A man named Patrick Doolan, dow in comfortable cir- 
cumstances, went, the first year he settled at Belledune, 
to Petit Roche, in order to get a barrel of potatoes. By 
the disbursement of the last shilling 1 was the purchase 
made ; but how to get it home, was even more difficult 
than to pay for it. He was twelve miles from home, 
and the road was bad, The load, too, was rather hea- 
vy to be shouldered ; to hire a sleigh equally impossible 
and impolitic ; and to borrow one, was a favour no 
stranger could expect. Reduced to this extremity, poor 
Doolan had no other alternative, than that of submitting 
to chop firewood for the Frenchman, from whom he 
bought the potatoes, as an equivalent for the miserable 
privilege of being allowed to eat them in his cabin. These 
people, once so poor, now enjoy comparative affluence. 
They not only raise their own Stock, Grain, Cattle, 
&c. but often supply with their surplus produce, the in- 
habitants of Bonaventure, and elsewhere. Thus, in 9 
years, have a few poor men, encumbered with help- 
less families, and destitute of every thing but indus- 
try, surmounted all the disadvantages of their situation; 
and laid the foundation of a permanent livelihood for 
themselves, and a handsome competency for their chil- 
dren. 

The aquired property of Belledune, may be estimated 

26 



202 COUNTY OF 

at nearly £2000. The settlers are all Irish Roman Ca- 
tholics ; and their religious zeal, backed by the liberal- 
ity of others, has lately erected the frame of a Chapel, 
measuring 42 feet in length, and 28 in breadth. 

Near the head of Belledune, there lives a French ve- 
teran, named Francis Guitar. This man was born in 
the Fauxbourgh Saint Antoine, in Paris ; and was, when 
Louis XVI. was beheaded, about l&'years of age. Gui- 
tar witnessed many of the sanguinary executions of that 
.period ; and while the world was still blushing at the 
atrocities of Republican France, had he the happiness to 
be one of a troop of Dragoons, that conducted Robes- 
pierre to the guillotine. He subsequently served under 
Buonaparte, at Marengo and Lodi ; and after the evacu- 
ation of Italy by the Austrians, followed him into Egypt, 
and fought at the battle of the Pyramids. 

Armstrong's Brook, though rather an unimportant 
stream, contains some very good timber ; there is no 
lumbering on it, however, owing in a great degree, to 
its incapacity for driving. 

Jacquet River. This river proceeds from a Lake 
near the Little Nipisiquit ; is 45 miles long, and falls into 
the bay, 9 miles above Belledune. It is abundantly 
supplied with salmon, and flows rather impetuously, 
through a mountainous district, exceedingly well tim- 
bered with good white pine, and large birch. 

Jacquet River possesses great facilities for both the 
manufacture and shipment of timber. The stream can 



GLOUCESTER. 203 

be driven for more than 30 miles, its banks are well lined 
with the raw material ; and at its entrance, is a fine 
snug harbour, with good holding ground in 4 and 5 fa- 
thoms. Two miles from this, there is another good 
harbour, called Hecklar's Cove. Here, sheltered from 
the most prevailing winds, by Heron Island, as well as 
by Black- Point, and several other projections, ships can 
load with security, and ride with safety, in six and se- 
ven fathoms. 

Mr. Doyle, a gentleman residing near the entrance of 
this river, settled there in the year 1790, at which time, 
as well as for several years afterwards, was he the only 
settler between Bathurst and Dalhousie. He served in 
the Revolutionary War, and was, in 1781, a Sergeant 
in the 3lst foot, then stationed in Quebec. In the 
course of this year, and at a time when Mr. Doyle was 
performing guard at the Chateau, Mr. Munro, of Too- 
toogoose, with other American loyalists, arrived there, 
and were presented to the Governor, by Captain Israel 
Pritchard, then serving in the Queen's Rangers, and 
now residing at New Richmond, in Gaspe district. 

During the first 6 or 8 years of Mr. Doyle's residence 
at Jacquet River, he sustained considerable injury from 
the frequent predatory visits of the Indians. They re- 
peatedly robbed him of his cattle ; destroyed his crops, 
and even threatened to murder him. His judicious 
conduct, however, overcame their malignity ; by tem- 
pering conciliation with firmness, he succeeded in pro- 
pitiating the well disposed, and in intimidating the rest. 



201 COUNTY OF 

River Charles and River Benjamin, are both con- 
siderable streams ; and although they have long been 
the field of rather an extensive lumbering, no very sen- 
sible diminution of their stock is discernible. 

The Louison is a small river, distinguished by no 
particular feature, except a scanty supply of red pine, 
birch and maple. All the timber manufactured on these 
rivers, is shipped at either Hecklar's Cove or Jacquet 
harbour. 

New Mills, formerly Malagash, was originally set- 
tled by a Dutch merchant, named Rumpoft, who for se- 
veral years, carried on an extensive business in ship- 
building, and the Cod fishery. This establishment, the 
most valuable on the south shore of the Bay, has been 
considerably improved by its present proprietor, William 
Fleming, Esq. Here has this gentleman lately erected 
a Saw Mill, and a Grist Mill ; both large, well con- 
structed, and eligibly seated. Besides two pairs of stones 
revolving on one axle, and adapted for grinding wheat 
and oats, the Grist Mill has also an excellent machine 
for manufacturing Pot Barley. In front of the Mills, 
there is a good harbour, formed by Black Point on the 
S. E. ; and Heron Island, with a cluster of small ones, 
on the N. and N. W. Here there is a beautiful Cod 
and Herring Fishery, besides good shelter, and safe 
anchorage in 4 and 5 fathoms. 

New Mills, is the general, name, by which a district 
of nearly 5 miles long is distinguished. The people 



GLOUCESTER. 205 

residing in the immediate vicinity of the harbour, are 
principally Scotch emigrants, from the Island of Arran. 
Prudence and industry characterize their habits ; and 
their attachment to their country, as well as fidelity to 
their religion, is amiably manifested in their strenuous 
exertions for the erection of a Presbyterian Church. 

Eel River. This is a long, but shallow river, of ra- 
ther a sluggish cast. It rises near the Big Belledune ; 
flows tardily through a rich woodland country ; and es- 
capes into the Bay, 4 miles S. E. of Dalhousie. Eel Ri- 
ver has long been the source of an abundant supply of 
good timber ; and some lumberers who have lately ex- 
plored it, are of opinion, that it will for many years, con- 
tinue to afford its usual quantum. The settlement about 
its entrance, and those for a couple of miles on either 
side thereof, derive their name from the river. These 
comprise a small wooden Chapel, with 30 dwelling 
houses, occupied by as many families, consisting of 
Acadians and Scotch emigrants. The chapel is visited 
by the Missionary from Bathurst ; and the timber is 
shipped at the Port of Dalhousie. 

From here to the entrance of the Restigouche, the 
shore is a continuation of almost perpendicular cliffs, 
towering nearly 100 feet above the level of the sea. — 
But notwithstanding so unfavourable a character, this 
rocky and Iron-bound shore, possesses both attractions 
and resources. A valuable fishery, washing its base, 
sends tribute to it upon every wave ; and a tolerably 



200 COUNTY OF 

extensive dispersion of friable loam, qualifies the sterility 
of its surface, by covering it with a soil. Nor is Its 
appearance so destitute of beauty, as a stranger would 
be inclined to suppose ; for a neat French house occu- 
pying a position at its bottom, and Belleview, the roman- 
tic little villa of Perry Dumaresq, Esq. cresting its sum- 
mit, at once chequer the monotony, and sooth the wild- 
ness of its aspect. 



I shall close this Chapter, by tendering my thanks to 
Mr. Henry W. Baldwin, of Bathurst, by whom, these 
and other particulars, were obligingly furnished. 



CHAPTER VI. 



Description ofDalhousie Harbour, and Restigoucke River, 



The Restigouche,or Big River, so called in contradis- 
tinctionto the Miramichi, a somewhat smaller one, is the 
principal river in the County of Gloucester. It rises near 
Taumisquatic Lake, a large and beautiful pond supply- 
ing the Madawaska ; is supposed to be more than 220 
miles long ; describes a general course of E. N. E. ; is 
cherished by numerous appendant streams ; and rolls 
through a large and commodious harbour, into the head 
of La Baie des Chaleurs, in conjunction with which, it 
forms the seperating line between Lower Canada, and 
New Brunswick. As the settlements and principal lo- 
cal characteristics of this river, lie within 70 miles of 
its entrance, we shall commence our description at the 
latter, and thence proceed towards its source. 



208 COUNTY OP 

The entrance of the Restigouche is about 3 miles wide, 
and is formed by two higher promontories of Red Sand- 
stone :— the one on the North side, is called Point Ma- 
gashua ; that on the South, Bon Amie's Rock. This 
opening is bold, and finely developed ; is accessible in 
all weathers ; is not encumbered by a single Bar or 
Shoal ; and contains upwards of 9 fathoms of water. 

On the South side, two miles above the entrance, is 
the town of Dalhousie, consisting of a few houses, and 
two or three mercantile establishments, of which the 
most extensive, is that of Messrs. Hugh and John Mont- 
gomery. The scite of this town is a level eminence, 
and between it, and two small, but elevated Islands in 
front, a good broad channel of 6 or 7 fathoms in depth, 
flowing towards the town, forms a fine safe harbour, 
where vessels may load within a quarter of a mile of 
the shore. The North, or main channel, commences 
between the Islands and Magashua, and flowing over 
a soft bottom, runs a W. S. W. course for 18 miles, car- 
rying to that extent, a good traversable breadth, vary- 
ing from 8 to 4 fathoms in depth. Here, after bathing 
the bed of a projection, it branches into two passages, 
which, though narrow, are 3 miles long, and contain 
from 14 to 16 feet at low water. Four miles above this, 
whither the tide flows, the river is upwards of a mile 
wide ; and from thence, to within 40 miles of its source, 
is it navigable for light canoes. 

Thus, the Restigouche, independently of its great 
agricultural and commercial resources, is eminently dis- 



GLOUCESTER. 209 

tingui9hed by two important maritime features, namely, 
it is in some degree, navigable" for 180 miles from its en- 
trance ; and it contains a safe and commodious harbour, 
18 miles long, 2 miles wide, and more than sufficiently 
deep for the largest class of British merchant men. At 
first view, the country, on both sides of this river, and 
all round it, even to the utmost verge of observation, 
presents an appearance exceedingly granpl and impres- 
sive. Whatever way the eye wanders, before it lies a 
seemingly interminable region of huge and lofty moun- 
tains. Nothing is to be seen but an almost immeasura- 
ble dispersion of gigantic hills, apparently rolling in every 
direction, and breathing through an almost infinite num- 
ber of Lakes and Rivers, Glens and Valleys. Of 
these mountains, some are elegantly flowered with 
tall pines ; others sustain a fine growth of hardwood ; 
many have a swampy summit, and several terminate 
in rich meadows and plains. Some of them are coni- 
cally formed ; many exhibit considerable rotundity ; 
some are lank and attenuated, and others there are, 
whose figure and construction I confess myself unable 
to describe. 

Let the reader contemplate for a moment, this im- 
mense surface of geological incongruities ; and while 
the sentiments inspired by this study, are glowing in his 
bosom, let him fix his eye upon the landscape, taking 
care to remember, that an irregular, but extensive dis- 
tribution of tremendous cliffs, darting their points through 

and far above the loftiest of the trees, dot it all over 

27 



210 COUNTY OF 

with bristling spires that seem to coquet with the clouds. 
For 70 miles from its debouchure, the river is lined on 
both sides, by two stripes of high, but level land, extend- 
ing upon an average, more than a mile back ; with 
however, a few prominent elevations, occupying the 
very edge of the water, and maintaining a position, 
something like the bastions of a rampart. 

These two banks of table land, appear to be a strati- 
fied formation of red sand stone, and other secondary 
rocks, interspersed with Limestone, coarse Granite, &c. 
the whole overlaid by a loamy covering of clay and 
gravel. Immediately in the rear of, and all round these 
stripes, lie the desultory profusion of mountains, I have 
endeavoured to describe. The natural fertility of these 
plains, is considerably augmented by enriching con- 
tributions, carried down from the mountains, by ero- 
sion, rain, overflowing of rivers, bursting of lakes, 
and other external agents. And thus cherished, they 
produce very luxuriant crops of wheat, oats, rye, barley, 
vegetables, &c. 

Proceeding towards the interior, to the distance I have 
mentioned, the river, from its own course, and the dis- 
position of the land, agreeably deceives you ; at every 
six miles one seems to be entering a new lake. Having 
advanced about 70 miles from the entrance, the land 
becomes comparatively level. Here, and all the way 
towards the head of the river, is a fine bold and open 
country, consisting of a rich upland, skirted with large 
tracts of intervale, and covered with a dense and unvio- 



GLOUCESTER. 211 

lated growth of mixed wood, in which large groves of 
pine are very conspicuous. 

Descending from generals to particulars, let us now 
take a closer view of this magnificent river. In a brief 
historical sketch of Gaspe, contained in the fourth part 
of this book, the reader will find a detailed account of 
an action, that took place between the French and 
English, on the Restigouche. We shall now notice the 
particular places, more intimately connected with this 
transaction. 

As well to remove alt doubt, concerning what I have 
advanced on this subject, as to obtain credit for what I 
am about to relate, it may be necessary to inform the 
reader, that I obtained the particulars from a demi-offi- 
cial account, published in the Monthly Chronology, of a 
Periodical Paper, entitled " The London Magazine, or 
• " Gentleman's Monthly Intelligencer." Of this demi-offi- 
cial account, the following is an exact copy verbatim et 
literatim. 

" London, August 30, 1760. 

" Admiralty Office. — By a letter dated the 2ndinst. 
at Halifax, from Captain Allen, commander of his Majes- 
ty's ship the Repulse, it appears, that upon intelligence 
received from the Governor of Louisburgh, of some 
French ships of war, and store ships, with troops and 
stores on board, being in Chaleur Bay, in the Gulf of 
Saint Lawrence, Captain Byron, in His Majesty's Ship 
the Fame, proceeded with several of His Majesty's ships 



J 12 COUNTY OF 

in quest of them, and finding them in the said Bay, the 
Fame, Repulse, and Scarborough, after much difficulty- 
got up, and on the 8th of July, destroyed the whole, 
consisting of Three Frigates, viz : the Marchault, the 
Bienfaisant, the Marquis de Marloze, and another ; be- 
sides Twenty two Schooners, Sloops, and small Priva- 
teers, with a great quantity of provision and stores." 
" A more circumstantial account is daily expected from 
Captain Byron, who had sent Lieutenant Lord Ruther- 
ford, with his despatches, by way of New York." Of 
this account, the subjoined is a literal transcript. 

" London, 8th September, 1760." 

By despatches received from Captain Byron, Senior 
officer of His Britannic Majesty's Ships at Louisburgh, 
and dated 26th of July, it appears that Captain B. upon 
receiving intelligence from Brigadier General Whitmore, 
that a French fleet had sailed up Chaleur Bay, proceed- 
ed with the Fame, Dorcetshire, Achilles, Scarborough, and 
Repulse, in quest of them. Having destroyed one French 
Ship, La Catharina, in Gaspe Bay, Captain Byron pro- 
ceeded to a large river, called by the Indians, Rustigushi. 
Here he found the remainder, consisting of the Mar- 
ch ault of 32 guns ; the Esperance of 30 ; the Bienfaisant 
of 22 ; and the Marquis de Marloze of 16 ; together with 
twenty two sloops, and small vessels. " When our fleet 
appeared off the Rustigushi harbour, the enemy proceed- 
ed up the river, and anchored above two batteries, 
mounted on the North side of it. These being but in- 
differently served, were soon silenced ; and the ships, 



GLOUCESTER. 213 

after a short resistance, were all sunk or taken. Captain 
Byron then destroyed the town of Petit Rochelle^ contain- 
ing upwards of 200 houses ; and also both of the bat- 
teries." 

The Magazine from which I obtained these extracts, 
I borrowed from Mr. Joseph Spratt, of Chatham, neither 
of us, knowing at the time, that it contained such infor- 
mation. 



Particular localities distinguishing Restigouche River. 

On the South side, 8 miles above the entrance, is 
Point Mnimpk, a considerable elevation, which, as its 
name implies, was formerly a reconnoitering post with 
the Indians. In the vicinity of this point, are unequivo- 
cal indications of an extensive coal mine. 

Point Le Guard, on the North side, is nearly 12 
miles from the entrance. It is a bluff high projection, 
nearly perpendicular, and was formerly occupied by the 
French, as a military station. This point commands a 
fine view of the entrance of the harbour ; and is said to 
have been the site of a large fort, destipyed by the 
British squadron, under Captain Byron. 

Two miles higher up, on the same side, is Battery 
Pointy so called from a garrison having occupied it du- 
ring the old French war. This is a bold rocky pro- 
montory, probably 80 feet high, having on its summit, 
a tolerably extensive plain, and at its base, a fine deep 
channel, containing from 4| to 5 fathoms, 



214 COUNTY OF 

A few years ago, several large pieces of ordnance 
that had been sank near the bottom of this point, were 
removed, by some of the inhabitants, and by them, con- 
verted to various culinary purposes. Some guns are 
still lying there, and near the Beach, about 26 years 
ago, did Mr. Busteed, the present proprietor, find a large 
copper stew pan, of French construction, lying mouth 
downwards, and under it, a bottle of molasses. The 
pan has been in constant use ever since ; and to judge 
from its present healthy appearance, is likely to survive 
26 years more. Among other articles, said to have 
been found at this point, a pair of duelling pistols, a 
handsome regulation sword, and a small case of wine, 
are enumerated. Here, at the edge of the channel, 
and visible at low water, are the remains of two French 
vessels, part of the fleet destroyed by Byron. 

A little above the Battery Point, is the mercantile 
establishment of Dean & Aitkin, the first and the last 
house that I visited in Canada. I mention this circum- 
stance to afford myself an opportunity of tendering my 
grateful acknowledgements to the kind and hospitable 
proprietors. This house, and that of Mr. Peter Suther- 
land, lately established a short distance from it, are the 
only resident merchants on the North side of the river. 
— Four miles above this, is Point Pleasant, the residence 
of Edward J. Man, Esq. To the propriety of this name, 
I cordially render my assent ; for during a residence of 
14 days, I found it to be Point Pleasant, indeed. From 
every member of Mr. Man's amiable family, did I re- 



GLOUCESTER. 215 

ceive the most polite attention ; and to him and his son 
am I deeply indebted, for much of the information con- 
tained in this book At the edge of the channel, oppo- 
site to Mr. Man's, are the remains of another sunken 
vessel, from which some of the oaken timbers, some 
cutlasses, and other things, have been extracted. 

On the South side, nearly opposite to Point. Pleasant, 
is another projection called Martin's Point, formerly a 
French village, and now ornamented by a handsome 
Presbyterian Church, lately erected by the mutual 
exertions of the inhabitants of both sides of the river. 
Through' this point flows a tolerably large stream, on 
which, the present proprietor, Robert Ferguson, Esq. 
has a very good Saw Mill and Grist Mill. 

A short distance^ above this, is the establishment of 
Messrs. Adams, about a mile in the rear of which, is a 
large mountain, called from its conical form, the sugar 
loaf. It rises about 700 feet above the level of the plain, 
is composed of a spiral mass of Granite, clothed with 
secondary formation, and is, at its base, from 2J to 3 
miles in circumference. This mountain is inaccessible 
on all sides, except the East, where it Can be ascended 
by a rude, but natural flight of steps, formed by several 
projections. A mile and a half in the rear of this moun- 
tain is a beautiful Lake, abundantly stocked with 
large red trout, and surrounded by a level plain well 
clothed with hardwood. 



CHAPTER VII. 



Particular localities distinguishing the Restigouche. 

Directly, opposite, on the other side of the river, is 
Mission Point, an exceedingly rich tract of land, com- 
prising upwards of 1,200 acres, and owned by the Mic- 
macs, to Two Hundred of whom, it affords a permanent 
residence. This settlement consists of a Chapel, capa- 
ble of containing 300 persons, together with a Mission 
House, a Burying ground, and 24 dwelling houses. The 
houses are constructed of logs, covered with shingles or 
boards ; they are all provided with chimneys and 
stoves ; and some of them have even chairs, bedsteads, 
tables, and similar other conveniences. 

Most of the householders own Live Stock, consisting 
of oxen, cows, swine, &c. some of them have houses 
one of them owns a small schooner of 25 tons ; and J 
others have small Fishing Boats. 



GLOUCESTER. 217 

The Indians residing here, are generally moral in 
their deportment, and industrious in their habits. They 
demean themselves soberly and peaceably, contributing 
much to their own respectability and comfort, by annu- 
ally raising a small stock of Indian corn, beans, potatoes, 
&c. The R. C. Missionary residing at Carleton, is their 
spiritual director ; he visits them twice a year, remain- 
ing a month each time ; and for these services, is paid 
by a legislative grant from Canada. The Mission House 
and the Chapel were built exclusively by the Indians. 

Mission Point is a very eligible site for a small town, 
and would, if granted for that purpose, be soon occu- 
pied. The rear might be profitably disposed in garden 
lots, and the front in building ones. The Highlands 
are more than a mi[e and a half back, and are abundant- 
ly stocked with black birch, and several varieties of fire- 
wood ; and a good channel for a vessel of two hundred 
tons, winds close into the beach, while a contiguous flat, 
or middle ground, provides an excellent Salmon Fishery. 
Of these advantages, and of the end to which they might 
be applied, Lord Dalhousie seemed to be aware, when 
he offered the Indians £ 600, and twice as much land 
elsewhere, if they would resign their title. 

Nearly opposite to this Point, and a little above it, are 
the remains of two vessels, both visible at low water. 
These are supposed to have been the Bienfaisant, and the 
Marquis de Marfoze ; and from the one conjectured to 
have been the former, were a set of rudder irons lately 

28 



218 COUNTY OF 

recovered, which were used I believe, in the re-equip* 
ment of the Gordon Castle, a vessel belonging to Mr. 
Ferguson. 

Three miles above this, is Point au Bourdo, thescite of 
that Petit Rochelle, which Byron destroyed in the sum- 
mer of 1760. It was called by the Indians, Kaatoukong, 
or Grind Stone point, to signify the quality of the red 
sandstone mountains, with which its vicinity abounds. 
Its present name is derived from the sepulture of Mon- 
sieur Bourdo,the officer who commanded the Marchault, 
and who was killed in the action, and buried here. 

Here, along the shore ; and at the foot of the moun- 
tains, cellar walls, foundations of houses, and other me- 
morials of an old and extensive settlement, are visible. 
Here also, have gun barrels, old guns, gun locks, bayo- 
nets, &c. been occasionally discovered. Mr. Busteed-, 
the owner of Battery Point, is also the proprietor of this ; 
and three or four years ago, did a servant of his, while 
ploughing some land, a short distance from where a ser- 
vice of China, had been previously dug up, find a four 
pronged silver fork, and a silver table spoon, both mark- 
ed with the letters G. M. D. At the West end of this 
point, is also the hull of a vessel, from which handgre- 
nades, small bomb shells, and some other projectiles 
have been occasionally taken. 

A little above the point is a small stream called officers 
creek ; it is a romantic little spot ; and from some fa- 
shionable articles found about the ruins of a house in the 



GLOUCESTER. 219 

neighborhood, it may be inferred, that it was once the 
residence of a person of some distinction. Near this are 
also a set of launch ways, which must have been used 
by the French, in the construction of a tolerably large 
vessel. Several pieces of cannon have also been found 
here ; and one of them, a 12 pounder, I think, Mr. Bus- 
teed has lately inserted in the back of a new fire place. 
Mr. Man, of Point Pleasant, has also an elegant parlour 
stove, made from a carronade of the same calibre This 
conversion of instruments of death, into means of pro- 
moting human comfort, is analogous to O'Leary's des- 
cription of the benificent fruits of religious toleration. 
" The stake," says that eloquent writer, " which for- 
merly burned the heretic, now cooks a dinner for him." 

Opposite to Mission Point, is Athol House, the resi- 
dence of Robert Ferguson, Esq. whose Lady I believe, 
can claim the distinction of being the first child born of 
English parents on the Restigouche. A little above Mr. 
Ferguson's, is Bob's Point, formerly the scite of an Indian 
village. 

From Robin Gray's book, a small stream discharging 
round the West end of this Point, there is a portage of 
22 miles leading towards the head of the Upsalquitch. 
It runs through remarkably fine land, revealing an ex- 
tensive plain well covered with hardwood. This por- 
tage was opened by a few lumberers in 1827, and al- 
though not in a very good state at present, it might, by 
a moderate outlay, be made a permanent and useful 



220 COUNTY OF 

line of communication. What recommends this road to 
a share of public attention is ; it has a good firm bottom ; 
requires no bridges ; has a few settlers already on it ; 
and has a tendency to connect the main river with one 
of its principal branches. 

Great Post Road to Quebec. 
Little more than a mile above Point au Bourdo, and 
about 24 from Dalhousie, the contemplated Post Road 
to Quebec, enters the forest. It runs a straight line of 
ten miles into the interior, and thence pursues a W. N. 
W. course, crossing the heads of two or three branches 
of the Matepediac River ; and winding round the East 
side of the Matepediac Lake, thence through Metise, 
and up to Quebec. From Quebec to the South side of 
Matepediac Lake, a distance of probably 230 miles, a 
good road has been long established ; and from thence 
to the Restigouche, is little more than 60. 

This continuation will be carried through a compara- 
tively level tract of country, possessing the important re- 
quisites of a good soil ; and a fine hard bottom. Some 
are of opinion, that in order to facilitate the settlement 
of the Matepediac, the road should be carried along its 
banks ; but it ought to be remembered, that in that 
case, the expence would be much more, while the dis- 
tance would be considerably longer, and the land great* 
ly inferior. A direct line of communication considered, 
independently of all other speculative or contingent ac- 
quisitions, I think the present route, the best that could 
have been selected. 



GLOUCESTER. 2gJL 

It is confidently expected that this road will be com- 
pleted against the Fall of 1833, a period, to which the 
inhabitants of the Bate des Chaleurs, may look forward, 
as to the date of their admission, to an unrestrained in- 
tercourse with the capital of the Canadas* Among other 
advantages, its completion will open a new vien for the 
circulation of the resources of Gaspe, a country, of 
which the Canadian government know as much, as they 
do of the interior of Cochin China, or the heart of Central 
Africa. 

For six miles above the head of the tide, the river is 
beautifully spangled wilh 21 or 22 small Islands, which 
standing in Bass-Relief with the surrounding mountains, 
form a soothing contrast, involving the most delightful 
and romantic scenery. Most of these Islands are cover- 
ed with a luxuriant growth of Elm and Maple, inters- 
persed with poplar and balm of gilead trees, the latter 
exhaling a rich fragrance that perfumes the atmosphere 
for several miles. These Islands afford a fine pasturage, 
and would, if cultivated, be excellent meadow land. 
Two of them have been granted ; and the remainder, 
being a sort of Commons or unclaimed property, 
are usually occupied by the Indians, as sugaries. 
— Although the process for manufacturing maple sugar, 
is extremely simple, and consequently a familiar branch 
of domestic science in the colonies, it may not be out of 
order to allude to it here. The tree should be tapped 
about the first of April, when the juice, though sweet, is 
nearly as thin as water, The sap should be received in 



-622 COUNTY OF 

clear bark dishes ; and then boiled into a thin syrup. It 
is afterwards to be strained through flannel ; and reboil- 
ed to the consistency of sugar. It should then be put 
into large bark, or wooden moulds ; and left in them till 
it cools. This ends the process ; for shortly after, the 
liquid becomes cold, and acquires a hardness and trans- 
parency, something like English refined sugar. — 
In this colony, the maple is generally tapped with an 
axe ; nor is the incision ever closed after the tree is ex- 
hausted ; but in the United States, where great solici- 
tude is bestowed on Maple Groves, the tree is bored 
with an augur, and after the sap is extracted, the aper- 
ture is hermetically sealed. 

At the head of this Archepelago, on the North side, 
falls in the JMcttepediac, or Musical River, so called in 
consequence of the peculiar intonations, occasioned by 
the passage of the wind, through the trees that cover, 
and down the numerous ravines that cleave its banks. — 
This river proceeds from Matepediac Lake, in the coun- 
ty of Cornwallis, in Lower Canada ; is more than sixty 
miles long ; and receives several tributaries, the largest 
of which are the Casupscoult, and the Kassimiguagan. It 
flows very rapidly over a rocky bed, lying between two 
great chains of mountains ; and is the principal branch 
of the Restigouche, on the Canadian side. In addition 
to the common character of all the Restigouche rivers, 
namely that of being well supplied with good timber, 
the xMatepediac is eminently distinguished for a peculi- 
arly fine growth of long straight white pine. 



GLOUCESTER. 223 

The land for about 4 miles above, and the same dis- 
tance below the debouchure of this river, is exceedingly- 
mountainous ; and composed, apparently, of deeply la- 
minated strata of Black Flag, and Mica Slate. 

Six miles above this, on the South, or New Bruns- 
wick side, it receives the UpsalquUch, or Lesser River, 
rising" near the Nipisiguit Lakes, and flowing with consi- 
derable violence, through a broken, but densely wooded 
country. This river, like the Tobique, and great Nipisi- 
guit, contains a great deal of large Red Pine in yie vici- 
nity of its source, and about the heads of its branches ; 
but thence downwards, towards its entrance, the princi- 
pal growth is white pine. Near the entrance of the 
Upsalquitch, is Green Stone Mountain, an enormously 
huge pile, so called from the complexion of the hard 
rocky substance, of which it is composed. This moun- 
tain, probably, is 1,500 feet high, and from some speci- 
mens of slate shewn to me ; and said to have been 
extracted from it, lam disposed to believe that it con- 
tains an extensive quarry. 

Of a variety of other subordinate rivers discharging 
into the Restigouche, the Petomkegwck, the Petawigaa, 
and the Pidabidjau, are the most considerable. Many of 
these tributaries are supplied by others ; and both prin- 
cipals and subservients are well timbered. 

That the Restigouche, has, by the impetuosity of its 
career, forced its way through the great chain of moun- 



324 COUNTY OF 

tains extending from the Saint Lawrence, towards the 
South, appearances induce me to belive. From a short 
distance above the Upsalquitch, for a considerable way 
up the river, there are palpable evidences of the fact. 
While the high lands on each side of the river, corres- 
pond in soil, formation, and general appearance, they 
also retain the traces of a violent partition. On the 
North, the land is, in some places, indented with fissures 
and cavities, with which the opposite protuberances cor- 
respond ; and in other places, there is a juxta-position of 
concave and convex appearances perfectly harmonizing. 

The Grand River, a stream discharging into the Saint 
John, about 18 miles above the Grand Falls, is connect- 
ed with one of the South branches of this river, by a 
good^ portage of 8 miles ; while the Green River, and the 
Madawaska, also tributaries of the Saint John, are like- 
wise united to it by similar routes, leading from each to 
the main stream. As every part of this extensive river, 
is abundantly supplied with all varieties of timber for 
exportation ; and as but a small quantity has hitherto 
been made on it ; it may be regarded as the source of a 
very great supply for many years to come. 

The settlers on the Restigouche, comprising about 90 
families, consisting of Scotch emigrants, and American 
loyalists, are but thinly dispersed along the tide way, 
none having yet penetrated above that, or up any of the 
branches, 



GLOUCESTER. 



225 



While pursuing my enquiries on this delightful river, 
for me every door was open, .and every table spread ; 
nor can I now close my feeble description of it, without 
assuring its inhabitants, that of the kindness and favour 
I received from them, I shall always retain a lively and 
grateful recollection. 



An account of the Saw and Grist Mills, in the County 
of Gloucester. 





Saw Mills. 


Grist Mills. 




No. 


No. 


Pockmouche - 


1 





Big Amacque - 





1 


Caraquette - - - 





1 


Grand Ance - 





1 


Pockshaw - - -' 


1 


1 


Bathurst - 





2 Wind Mills. 


Little Nipisiguit - 


1 





New Mills - 


1 


1 


Restigouche • 


1 


1 


Upsalquitch - 


1 







6 


8 



Gloucester provides two Battalions of Militia, and 
one Rifle Company ; sends one member to the Provin- 
cial Assembly, and contains a population of upwards of 
6,500 souls, whereof nearly 4,000 are Acadian French. 

29 



NATURAL HISTORY. 



CHAPTER I. 

Objects of Natural History in New Brunswick. 



What an immense and mysterious volume is nature. 
It is a polyglot history of innumerable worlds, each a- 
bounding with incomprehensible wonders. Glory is its 
title page ; the elements are its preface ; harmony is in 
its arrangement ; and divinity in its style. It is a book 
of impenetrable secrets, lettered with prodigies, bound 
in immensity, and sealed with perfection. Every page 
is redolent of wisdom ; every paragraph breathes a ho- 
mily ; and every sentence enforces a precept. Uttering 
speech from day unto day, and shewing knowledge from 
night unto night, its attentive perusal will enlarge the 
conceptions, and bend the soul to the consideration of 
its destiny, thereby proving that God is its author, and 
that Man should be its student. Of both the fact and 



230 NATURAL HISTORY. 

the obligation, does the pious Watts, elegantly declare 
his conviction in the following apostrophe : 

" Within thy circling power I stand, 
On every side I find thy hand ; 
Awake, asleep, at home, abroad, 
I am surrounded still with God." 

As New Brunswick undoubtedly possesses a very 
wide field for scientific research, it is much to be regret- 
ted that more of its natural history is not known. An ob- 
servation of the habits, construction, and general cha- 
racter of its numerous quadrupeds, would be gratifying 
to the Zoologist ; Botany could be exercised in admiring 
and investigating the beautiful variety of flowers, 
shrubs, and plants, that ornament and perfume the wil- 
derness ; while the Geologist and others might indulge 
in those profound and useful speculations, which ex- 
plore the bowels of the earth, and find resources in its 
womb. 

In an infant colony, however, the progress ofresearch 
is slow, painful, and unprofitable. In such a country, 
scientific enquiry meets with little encouragement, and 
much opposition. Various local impediments obstruct 
its way ; pampered ignorance jostles it off the road ; and 
the advantages, immediately accruable from more fa- 
miliar pursuits, powerfully militate against it. For 
these and other reasons, to which we need not distinct- 
ly allude, all that should be required in the present case 
is, a catalogue of the most prominent objects in Natu> 
ral History. 



NATURAL HISTORY. 
QUADRUPEDS. 



231 



The Moose, 


The Wood Chuck, 


The Hare, 


Cariboo, 


Ground Hog, 


Porcupine, 


Bear, 


Scunk, or Polecat, 


Weasel, . 


Carcajou, 


Silver Grey Fox, 


Squirrel, 


Lynx, 


Cross Fox, 


Mole, 


Martin, 


Red Fox, 


Rat, 


Mink, 


Otter, 


Mouse. 


Fisher, 


Beaver, 




Muskrat, 


Racoon, 





The Moose, or Russian Elk. — This Animal, although 
now totally extinct in our forests, was formerly so plen- 
tiful, that two expert hunters could shoot one hundred 
in a month. Its flesh though blacker than that of the 
Ox, is tender, palatable, and nutritive ; and heretofore, 
constituted the chief animal food of the early settlers. 
The Indians used the sinews as cords ; the skins were 
exported to make soldiers' belts ; and the tongue and 
mouffle were sold as great delicacies. The destruction 
of the Moose may be attributed to the rapacity and care- 
lessness of the hunters, who usually left the carcases in 
the woods. 



The Cariboo, or Lapland Reindeer, is distinguished 
by having brow antlers, which are rounder than the 
horns of the Moose, and meet nearer at the extremities. 
The fur is a light grey, and of but little value except for 
sleigh mounting. The skin is soft and tough ; is consi- 
dered a valuable leather ; and makes the best descrip- 



232 NATURAL HISTORY. 

tion of snow shoes. The carcass generally weighs from 
140 to 160 lbs. ; and the flesh is considered to be better 
flavoured than that of the Moose. 

The Black Bear is the only one found in New 
Brunswick. It is larger than the European bear, and 
has been known to weigh nearly five hundred pounds. 
Although carnivorous he is rather gentle ; and unless 
when wounded or hungry, is timid and inoffensive. In 
summer he feeds upon nuts, berries, leaves, &c. ; and 
sometimes upon sheep, calves, and pigs. Though un- 
wieldy, the bear is very nimble, and can ascend any 
tree large enough to sustain his weight, or fill his grasp. 
During winter he lives in great seclusion, residing in 
dens, or in the hollow trunks of trees, where he supports 
himself by sucking his paws and navel. The Indians 
anoint themselves with the fat, as well for a defence 
against the musquitoes, as a preventative to rheumatic 
affections. The meat is considered by some to be as 
good as pork ; the ham is prized as a delicacy ; and the 
skin, when dressed with the shag on, makes good sleigh 
furniture, and likewise muffs, and other articles of ap- 
parel. 

The Carcajou, probably the catamount, is a solitary 
animal of the wolf species, and of nearly the same size 
as a large mastiff. He has a tail so long, that Charle- 
roix says he twisted it several times round his body. 
This animal is the implacable enemy of the Moose ; 
and it is said that he will wind himself round a tree, 
spring from thence, coil his tail round the body of his 



NATURAL HISTORY. 233 

victim, and tear open his throat in a moment. The skin 
is hairy, of a dark brown colour, and of no value . 

Lynx.— Of this animal we have two species,— the 
Loup-cervier, commonly called the Lucifee ; and the wild 
cat, sometimes denominated the little Lucifee. The for- 
mer, when full grown, stands more than twenty inches 
high ; and measures about four feet from head to tail. 
Its colour is changeable, but the most permanent hue, is 
a light grey, mixed with red. Of great muscular 
strength, fierce disposition, and ravenous appetite, this 
animal commits great havock among sheep. He more- 
over, howls like a wolf ; is armed with sharp talons ; 
and climbs a tree with great facility. — The Wild Cat, 
is about one quarter smaller than the Loup-cervier, but in 
general appearance, habits, and propensities, there is a 
strong family likeness. 

Fox. — Of Foxes we have four varieties : — the black 
Fox, silver Fox, cross Fox, and red Fox. The two for- 
mer are clothed in rich fur, but are exceedingly rare ; 
— the two latter are meanly habited, and rather numer- 
ous. In size and strength they are all inferior to the 
English Fox ; but in disposition and subtlety there is 
little difference. 

Otter. — This animal is about four feet long, exclusive 
of the tail ; and is generally about a foot and a half in 
circumference. It is considered by some as amphibious ; 
but that I am inclined to doubt. It generally inhabits 

29 



234 NATURAL HISTORY. 

the banks of small rivers ; is an expert fisher ; and, 
in the exercise of his profession evinces great sagacity. 
The otter is very fierce and strong ; but when taken 
young, may be domesticated and taught to fish for its 
master. It feeds on fish, poultry, and the bark of trees. 
The skin makes excellent winter caps, and sells general- 
ly, for four dollars. 

Beaver. — The Beaver is an amphibious animal, and 
supposed to form the connecting link between quadru- 
peds and fishes. The body is about two feet nine inches 
long ; and is clothed with a glossy fur of a brown colour. 
The skin usually weighs about three pounds, and sells 
at ten shillings a pound. The meat is good, particu- 
larly the tail, which Epicures compare to the moufle of 
the Moose ; and the castoreum, or castor, used in medi- 
cine, is found in bags near the Anus. The female brings 
forth four young ones at a time ; and nature supplies her 
with a numerical record of her progeny, wonderfully in- 
scribed in the womb, by a hard round knot for each cub. 
They are remarkably ingenious, prudent, frugal, and in- 
dustrious — live to a great age, and are said to be singu- 
larly faithful after coupling. 

The Racoon resembles the Fox, in the size and shape 
of its body ; but the head and teeth are similar to those 
of a dog. The body is about twenty six inches long ; 
the tail twelve, and both are covered with a coat of soft 
hair, of a brown colour, slightly tinged with grey. — 
The tail is round, bushy, and annulated with black 



NATURAL HISTORY. 235 

bars, the flesh is good, and the fur is preferred by the 
hatters, to all other kinds, except that of the beaver. 

The Martin, or American Sable is a pretty, lively 
little animal of the Beaver tribe ; and is about the 
length and height of a common cat, but very slender. 
There are two varieties, the yellow breasted, and the 
white breasted. The former reside on the plains ; is 
of a brown colour, shaded with black ; and yields the 
best fur. The latter inhabits the mountains ; is of a 
reddish cast, and has poor fur. This animal is very 
courageous, frequently attacks the wild cat, and some- 
times kills it. The skin is generally sold for two shillings. 
— The Mink is of the same genus, but darker, smaller, 
and of proportionate value. The Fisher, sometimes 
called the black Fox, greatly resembles the Martin ; his 
colour is black, and his fur valuable* 

The Muskrat or Indian Musquash is an amphibi- 
ous animal ; is nearly the same size as a common cat, 
and resembles the Beaver in its appearance and habits. 
The skin, when touched, exhales a grateful scent, and 
the flesh is in high repute among the Indians. 

The Wood Chuck. — This is a small brown animal, 
resembling the Beaver, except in the tail and fur. It 
burrows like a rabbit, but is not so prolific, is very in- 
dolent, and remains in torpitude from early in Autumn, 
until the beginning of May. The skin is useless, but 
the fleshy when roasted, is considered to be as good as a 



236 NATURAL HISTORY. 

young pig. — The Skunk or Polecat is very common, 
and is called by the Indians, the stinking beast. It is about 
the size of a small cat, and has shining hair of a grey 
colour, with two white streaks along its back. The 
skin is converted into tobacco pouches, knife cases &c. 
and the flesh is sometimes eaten by the Indians. 

The Hare, improperly called a Rabbit, (for it does 
not burrow,) resembles in size and appearance, the 
mountain hare of England. They are very plentiful in 
various parts of the forest, and are snared in great num- 
bers during winter. They are very timid, and of them- 
selves totally defenceless ; but the mutability of their 
colour affords them a partial security. In winter, they 
are perfectly white, nor can they, except by their eyes, 
be distinguished from the snow ; while in summer, they 
are exactly of the same complexion as the fallen leaves 
of the preceding year. 

The Porcupine is about the size of a small dog ; and 
is covered with long, dark brown hair, interspersed on 
the back, sides, and tail, with stiff white spears of the 
thickness of wheat straw, and about two inches and a 
half in length . These shafts are tipped with black ; are 
slightly barbed ; and are commonly called quills. They 
are the only defence the poor animal has ; and when 
attacked, he rolls himself up, elevates his thorny 
buckler, and patiently waits for the assault. The flesh 
is very palatable, and the quills are used by the Indians, 
to ornament their moccasins, caps, boxes, &c 



NATURAL HISTORY. 237 

Squirrel.— Of this pretty, lively, and sportive little 
creature, we have four varieties, each rivalling the 
other in beauty and industry. The flying Squirrel 
is of a dun colour, and has membraneous wings of about 
an inch in width, and extending from the fore shoulders 
to the hind quarters. Its greatest singularity is, that it 
has its belly on one side, something like the flounder. 
— The Chirping Squirrel is of a pale red colour ; has 
a large bushy tail, and from its incessant garrulity, might 
be supposed to possess the bump of chatterboxative- 
ness. — The Grey Squirrel breeds in old trees ; and is 
remarkably nimble. The ground Squirrel is of a dun 
colour, but is distinguished from the rest by its habit of 
burrowing, and by two dark stripes along the back. — 
All these animals live upon nuts, berries, &c. and are 
about the size of a common rat. 

— oo — 
FISHES. 

Cetaceous or Whale Species. 

Bone Whale, Finback, Grampus, 

Herring Hog, Porpoise, Snuffer. 

Shark Species. 
Basking Shark, Mackarel Shark, Swing Tail, 
Bone Shark, Dog Fish, Seal. 

Bony and Cartilaginous. 

Ale wife or Gas- Cusk, Perch, 

pereaux, Dab, Black Trout, 



238 



NATURAL HISTORY. 
FISHES. 



B< 


my and Cartilaginous. 


Bass, 


Dollar Fish, 


Red Trout, 


Bone Eater, 


Flounder, 


Smelt, 


Brook Sucker, 


Frost Fish, 


Sturgeon, 


Pickerel, 


Haddock, 


Sun Fish, 


Salmon, 


Halibut, 


Sculpion, 


Sauce Fish, 


Hake, 


Squid, 


Salmon Trout, 


Herring', 


Shad, 


Bream, 


Horse Mackarel, 


Skate, 


Capelin, 


Horn Sucker, 


Sword Fish, 


Cat Fish, 


Mackarel, 


Tom Cod, 


Chub, 


Pollock, 


Wolf Fish, 


Cod, 


Plaice, 


Whiting. 


CrvMaceous and Testaceous 


Shell Fish. 


Blue Crab, 


Razor Fish, 


Sea Crab, 


Smooth Coekle, 


Scollop, 


Soldier Crab, 


Lobster, 


Sea Clam, 


Harlot's Egg, 


Muscle, 


Shore Clam, 


Perriwinkle. 


Oyster, 


Star Fish, 





EELS. 

Congor Eel, Silver Eel, 

Lamprey Eel, Sand Eel. 

All these fish are very numerous, and so well known, 
that a particular description of them would be uninter- 
esting. — The Sturgeon is very plentiful in the Mirami- 
chi, particularly up the North West branch of it, whither 
they go to spawn about the beginning of summer. The 



NATURAL HISTORY. 239 

flesh of this animal, when pickled, is highly esteemed in 
England. Its fins, &c. make good Isinglass ; and of its 
roe, do the Turks, Greeks, and Venetians, make an 
agreeable preparation, denominated Cavier; and which 
they use as we do cheese. It is supposed by some to 
live upon air and water, and is called Sturgeon, from the 
German Verb Stoern, which signifies to flounder. — The 
Shad in the different rivers of New Brunswick, is con- 
sidered as good as those caught in the Severn, which 
the London Fishmongers distinguish by the French 
name ofJllosse. — The Common Eel, a fish which we have 
in such abundance, was so highly esteemed by the 
luxurious Sybarites, that by a decree of their Senate, 
all who sold them were exempted from every kind of 
tribute. 



To this country is the return of spring, as beneficial 
as it is delightful. While the hoarse and sullen voice of 
March is still heard like the moaning noise of receding 
thunder, the eldest daughter of the seasons comes robed 
in beauty, with a smile upon her countenance, and boun- 
ty in her hands. Like the timid virgin, she is as meek 
as she is lovely, exalting her grandeur by the humility 
of her deportment ; and vindicating her modesty, by the 
blushes that enhance her charms. Kindness and favour 
are the presents she brings ; and profusion the scale 
that regulates her distribution of them. All nature par- 
ticipates of the benevolence of her dispensation. The 
sun acquires a heat that warms without fatiguing ; and 
a brilliancy that illuminates without dazzling. The 



240 NATURAL HISTORY. 

snow begins to melt and resign its dominion over earth* 
and the Ice, relaxing its hold, innumerable streams and 
brooks leap into life, and dance through the valleys. 
Splendour and music resume their wide dominion ; — a 
beautiful variety of plants and flowers glitter through 
the forest ; — the perennial developes new beauty ; — the 
deciduous trees recover their foliage ; — every bush sus- 
tains a warbler ; melody sweet and various is heard in 
every grove ; and a thousand cascades lend their 
tongues to swell the chorus of the symphony. 

As Ornithology has not yet been cultivated in this 
Province, neither a perfect catalogue, nor an exact clas- 
sification of birds can be furnished. I shall, therefore, 
give a list of the most familiar, and without affecting 
any classical nomenclature, designate them by the com- 
mon names they have received from the people. 



BIRDS. 

Jlquatic Birds. Aquatic Birds. 

The Wild Goose, Old Wife, 

Brant Goose, Murr, 

Blue winged Duck, Mirjouack, 

Black Duck, Large spotted Loon, 

Grey Duck, Small spotted Loon, 

Sea Duck, Cormorant, 

Shell Duck, Gannet, 

Whistling, or Wood Duck, Grey Gull, 



NATURAL HISTORY. 



241 



Teal, 
Widgeon, 

Bottle-nosed Coote, 
Shovel-nosed Coote, 

Land Birds. 

The Grey Eagle, 

Black Eagle, 

Bald Eagle, 

Bittern, or Indian Hen, 

Blue Crane, 

Grey Crane, 

Hen Hawk, 

Pigeon Hawk, 

Sparrow Hawk, 

Night Hawk, 

Raven, 

Carrion Crow, 

Whet Saw, 

Pigeon Woodpecker, 



White Gull, 
Mackarel Gull, 
Black headed Gull, 
Sea Pigeon. 

Land Birds. 

Speckled Woodpecker, 
Crested Kingfisher, 
King Bird, 
Pewit, 

Horned Owl, 
Whooting Owl, 
Little Screech Owl, 
Petit Curlew, 
White Curlew, 
Meadow Snipe, 
Pond Snipe, 
Grey Plover, 
Yellow legged Plover, 
Birch Partridge, 



Land Birds. 
Spruce Partridge, 
Wild Pigeon, 
Rice Bird, or Boblincoln, 
Swallow, 
Ortolan, 
Snow Bird, 
Black Bird, 
Robin Redbreast^ 



Land Birds, 
Goldfinch, 
Blue Jay, 

Yellow Bird, or Canary, 
Ameriean Nightingale, 
American Linnet, 
Curved Bill Humming Bird, 
Straight Bill Humming Bird 

30 



242 NATURAL HISTORY. 

Most of these are migratory birds, and come hither 
in the spring, or early part of summer. Others, such 
as the Blue Jay, Crow, Partridge, Snow Bird, and Wood- 
pecker, defy the severity of the climate, and remain 
with us all winter. All the water fowl, except the Brant 
and Sea Duck, drink fresh water, and inhabit lakes and 
rivers. The two latter generally resort to small Islands, 
and insulated beaches ; gravel regularly during the sea- 
son, feed on herring spawn in the spring, and the rest 
of the year upon roots and sea weed. 

The Whistling or Wood Duck, so called from the 
noise occasioned by the violent motion of his wings, and 
from his habit of nesting, is about the size of the Teal ; 
it resides at the heads of small brooks and rivulets ; 
and builds near the tops of hollow and decayed trees. — 
The Geese and Ducks are about the same size as the 
domestic ones ; the Brant is but little smaller than the 
Goose ; and in the same degree larger than the Mirjou- 
ack, a sort of species between Goose and Duck. All 
these birds are very plentiful ; are greatly esteemed ; 
and in some instances, have been domesticated. — The 
Birch Partridge, in size and general habits, resemble 
the English Wood Grouse ; but their plumage is a mix- 
ture of grey and brown, lightly sprinkled with white. 
Their flesh is very tender, and flavoured something 
like the European pheasant. The Spruce Partridge 
is somewhat smaller ; has a darker plumage ; and 
is impregnated with the bitter taste of the European 
Moor-fowl. These birds, though very numerous, afford 



NATURAL HISTORY. 243 

but little game , for they are so exceedingly stupid, that 
they will allow themselves to be knocked down with a 
stick, and sometimes even caught with the hand. — 
The Wild Pigeon. — This bird migrates from the fo- 
rests of the Southern States; and is frequently taken 
with rice in its stomach. They build in the green 
woods ; and feed on wild berries. Their plumage is a 
pale blue, the male having a red breast, and a tail like 
a pheasant. They are very plentiful from early in June 
till the middle of October ; during which time, good 
sportsmen often shoot from 50 to 60 in a day. — The 
Ortolan is a small bird, resembling in size, taste, and 
plumage, the Ortolan of Europe. The Snow Bird re- 
sembles the Ortolan, in flavour and formation ; but is 
rather larger. During the winter and early part of 
spring, this bird appears in a white vesture, which, as the 
summer approaches becomes brown. Between the Ro- 
bin, and the English Thrush, the only distinction is the 
pale red breast of the former. In size, plumage, snd 
melody, both birds are nearly alike. The American 
Nightingale, or Spring Bird, is of a dark grey colour, 
and about the size of an English sparrow. It is the ear- 
liest spring bird, and is called by the Indians, Gauisqui- 
tinagit, or the bird that brings the summer. It sings very 
sweetly ; and is, by some, considered nearly as great a 
vocalist as the canary. The Goldfinch resembles the 
English Goldfinch, sings sweetly, and is a favourite with 
the ladies. The blue Jay, Yellow Bird, & Blackbird, 
have each a few notes which they sing rather feebly ; 
and the Sweet Weather, derives his name, from inces 



244 NATURAL HISTORY. 

santly chirping the pleasant announcement that expres- 
ses it. — Of the Humming Bird there are two kinds ; one 
has a curved, the other a straight bill. This little crea- 
ture, the smallest of the whole feathered race, is clothed 
in a plumage, the richness and beauty whereof surpass 
description. On its head is a small crown of polished 
black, enamelled with white spots ; its breast is scarlet, 
the belly white, the back, wings, and tail, a delicate 
pale green, elegantly speckled with drops, glittering 
through feathers, as soft as down, and as lustrous as silk. 
This little beauty migrates from the South ; arrives 
here about the middle of June ; and spends the summer 
revelling and banquetting among sweets and flowers. 
—The Rice Bird, or Boblincoln, is a small bird of 
black and white color. It has a remarkably sweet and 
melodious note ; builds like a Lark ; and is the only bird 
in New Brunswick, that sings on the wing. 

oo 

INSECTS.— The following list comprises all the in- 
sects, with which we are most familiar : — 

Horned Beetle, Lady Fly, Horse Fly, Brown Fly, Goat 
Chaffer, Black Fly, Skipper, Sand Fly, Water Beetle, 
Fire Fly, Wasp, Black Beetle, Stinging Fly, Blossom 
Eater, Father Long Legs, Grasshopper, Miller, Cricket, 
Hornet, Musquito, Humble Bee, Locust, Wild Bee, 
Night Flutterer, Great Ant, Large Butterfly, Small Ant, 
Small Butterfly. All that can be said of these is, that they 
annoy us a little ; but that the brevity of their existence 
50 qualifies the inconvenience we experience from their 
intrusion, that we are almost ashamed to complain of it. 



CHAPTER II. 



Objects of Natural History. 



TREES. 



White Pine, 
Yellow Pine, 
Red Pine, 
Red Spruce, 
Black Spruce, 
White Spruce, 
Hackmatack, or Juniper, 
Sappine or Balsam Fir, 
Hemlock, 
White Cedar, 
Yellow Cedar, 
Willow, 



Black Birch, 
Yellow Birch, 
White Birch, 
Dwarf Birch, 
Elm, 

Black Ash, 
Swamp Ash, 
Grey Ash, 
White Ash, 
White Poplar, 
Trembling Poplar, 
Balsam Poplar. 



246 



NATURAL HISTORY. 



TREES. 



Red Oak, 

White Oak, 

Black Oak, 

Beech, 

Rock, or curly Maple, 

Waved Maple, or Zebra, 

White Maple, 

Red Maple, 

Bird-eyed Maple, 



Alder, 

Balm of Gilead, 

Hornbeam, 

Sycamore, 

Red Cherry, 

Choke Cherry, 

Indian Pear Tree, 

American Mangrove^ 

Dogwood. 



White and Red Pine. — The White Pine is the sove- 
reign of our forests ; and grows very abundantly on the 
different rivers in these counties ; particularly those of 
Northumberland and Gloucester. It is good for all the 
purposes of house building ; and is considered to be the 
best wood for ship masts. This tree, as it advances to 
maturity, acquires a yellow colour, and a better quality. 
It grows very straight and tall ; frequently from 90 to 
100 feet high ; has but very few branches, and these near 
the top. — The Red Pine is exactly the same as the East 
country, or Baltic Red Pine ; it is a very durable and 
elastic wood ; and is highly esteemed by ship builders. 
— Red and Black Spruce are generally used for masts 
and spars. The white Spruce is good for several do- 
mestic purposes ; and when cut, with the sap in the 
root, is very durable above ground ; and makes good 
house-frames, fence-rails, &c. Almost every spruce 
tree has one or two large roots running horizontally 



' 



NATURAL HISTORY. 247 

From the trunk. These make excellent knees for tend- 
ing ships ; and retain bolts and nails more tenaciously 
than any other kind of wood. Juniper, or Hackma- 
tack. — This tree resembles the Red Pine in grain ; 
but is harder and heavier. It makes excellent Tree- 
nails, Ship Beams, Knees, and Stantions, and likewise 
good planking under water. Perhaps the only defect in 
the Juniper is, a liability to sun crack, when exposed to 
the air. It is the most durable wood of these forests ; 
and is considered, by some, to be as good as the English 
Oak. — Sappine or Balsam Fir. — This is a beautiful ever- 
green resembling in external appearance the Yew tree. 
In the spring of the year, there is, at the extremity of 
every branch, a small delicate yellow bud, which when 
gently prest, exhales an odour, not unlike that of the 
pine-apple. Within the outside bark of this tree, grows 
a glutinous matter called Canadian Balsam, which, when 
compounded with the yolk of fresh eggs, makes an ex- 
cellent salve for green wounds. — Hemlock is also a per- 
rennial, and sometimes grows as large as the pine. It 
makes good lathwood, and being very durable under 
water, is admirably adapted for wharfs. In Prince Ed- 
ward's Island, this wood is much used for ship building, 
but in New Brunswick, it is considered totally unfit for 
such a purpose, The frailty of the Island built ships 
has obtained for them the unenviable cognomen of 
li Colonial Coffins ;" and there is little doubt, but the 
preference the builders entertain for Hemlock has 
contributed to the distinction. — White and Yellow 
Cedar. — These also belong to the peiennial family ; 



248 NATURAL HISTORY. 

they generally grow in rich vegetable soils and 
swamps ; and are much encumbered with branohes. 
They are remarkably durable both above and under 
water ; and are often used for timbering small craft 
and planking boats. The cedar is probably the best 
description of rift wood ; and supplies, when split, 
more laths than any other. The branches inva- 
riably grow on the south side of the tree, leaving the 
north side almost totally bare, a peculiarity, which 
serves the Indians for a compass. — Black Birch is a 
very valuable wood, and admirably adapted for ship 
building, particularly for the lower timbers and bottom 
planks, purposes, for which, it is considered but little 
inferior to English oak. This wood is susceptible of a 
very high polish, and makes very handsome and dura- 
ble furniture if kept beyond the influence of the fire. It 
should be cut down early in winter, while the sap is 
in the root. — The White Birch makes an elegant 
description of charcoal ; and of its bark do the Indians 
construct then? canoes, flambeaux, boxes, &c. — Elm. — 
Of this tree there are two kinds, the black and the 
white. The first, though small, is very strong and 
pliable, and is generally converted into plough beams, 
Ox bows, carriage wheels, and ship blocks. The se- 
cond is large and clear ; not liable to rent ; and highly 
preferred for ship-timbers and keels. — Ash. — Of this 
tree we have four varieties; — the black and swamp 
Ash ; and the grey and white Ash. The two former af- 
ford the strongest and best material for pot and pearl 
ashes ; and the two latter make very good oars, hand- 



NATURAL HISTORY. 249 

spikes, staves, &c. — The Elm and Ash usually grow on 
rich alluvial lands ; and are very plentiful on the Mira- 
michi, and the Restigouche, especially towards their 
sources. — Poplar. Of this wood the old settlers make 
plates, dishes, bowls, &c. It generally grows in low 
land ; and where the original wood has been removed by 
fire.— The Oak generally grows on high land ; but it 
is very scarce, and of little value.^THE Beech is a very 
hard wood, in appearance resembling, and in quality 
rivalling the English Beech. This tree is elegantly 
formed ; richly clothed in foliage ; and productive of a 
small triangular nut, having a white kern el, which, when 
boiled, becomes farinaceous, and makes tolerably good 
bread. — Maple. — Of this tree we have five varieties. 
The Rock or curly Maple, waved Maple, or Zebra wood ; 
red Maple ; bird-eyed Maple, and white Maple. The 
first four are strongly marked with a family likeness. 
They generally cluster in large groves ; grow from fifty 
to sixty feet in height ; from eighteen to twenty two 
inches in diameter — have a light green foliage, and 
branch near the top. — The White Maple is of a small 
stunted growth, and has a shaded foliage. All these 
trees yield a delicious sap, which, when reduced to 
consistency, by boiling, make very good sugar. When 
dry, the Maple makes the best and most agreeable fire- 
wood, for it affords great heat, burns brightly, and from 
its ashes renders a very, good soap. 

The Alder is a soft wood ; seldom more than eight 

or ten feet high ; and grows in great abundance along 

31 



250 NATURAL HISTORY. 

the borders of small rivulets, over which its forms 
arches, very troublesome to travellers. The bark of 
this tree, when boiled for about an hour, yields a jet black 
liquid, which is used to tan nets and dye woolen cloths. 
It impresses a glossy and permanent black, without im- 
pairing the strength, or injuring the quality of the wool. 
Birch, Juniper, and Hemlock bark, also make dyes, very 
much esteemed by tanners. — The BalmofGilead Tree, 
grows from twenty five, to thirty feet high ; and in the 
quality of its wood, as well as in the bark and foliage, 
there is a close similitude between it and the poplar. 
This tree produces a great quantity of large buds, 
which retain their vigour all the year, and in spring, 
exhale a most delightful fragrance. From these buds, 
is extracted by boiling, a viscous, or gluey substance, 
which incorporated with mutton suet, makes an excel- 
lent salve, and when mixed with Hog's lard, furnishes 
a rich pomatum. It also makes agreeable bitters if sa- 
taurated with diluted spirits. This tree is the prevail- 
ing growth, on the islands in the Restigouche. — The 
Juniper, black, and red Spruce, and several other 
trees, also produce a gum, that the ladies use to enamel 
their teeth.; and of which the Indians make pitch to 
pay the seams and rents of their canoes. — The Ameri- 
can Mangrove, or Iron Tree, and also the Dogwood^ 
are both nearly as hard as ebony. The former is used 
for axe handles ; and the latter is made into mauls and 
caulkers' mallets. 



NATURAL HISTORY. 



251 



SHRUBS AND BUSHES. 

Hazel Witch, Cranberry, Blackcurrant, 

Red Berried Elder, Dew Berry, Sumach, 

Swamp Elder, Creeping Black- Maiden Hair, 
Black berried El- berry, Negro Head, 



der, 
Blueberry, 
Raspberry, 
Strawberry, 
Blackberry, 
Bayberry, 



Blue Huckleberry,Sweet Fern, 
Black Huckleberry Dwarf Laurel, 
Thorn Bramble-Silver Laurel, 
berry, Red Currant, 

Soft BrambleberryLabrador, or Indi- 
Gooseberry, an Tea, 



ROOTS AJYD HERBS. 



Cow Tongue, 
Dock Root, 
Green Briar, 
Cancer Root, 
Pigeon Berry, 
Blood Root, 
Mother Wort, 
Ladies' Smock, 
Blood Wort, 
Night Shade, 
Everlasting, 
Spikenard, 
Dandelion, 
Wood Lorrel, 
Sarsaparilla, 



Golden Rod, 
Indian Shoe, 
Broad Plaintain, 
Groundsell, 
Agrimony, 
May Flower, 
Sand Fire, 
Mountain Tea, 
Five Finger, 
Winter Green, 
Calamus, 
Wild Tulip, 
Ladies Gloves, 
Wild Cinnamon, 



Red Solomon's 

Seal, 
Blue Solomon's 

Seal, 
Lilly of the Valley, 
Canada True Love 
Shepherd's Needle 
Indian Cups, 
Elecampane, 
Water Cresses, 
Capalier, 
Gold Thread, 
Ginseng, 
Chocolate Root, 
Sweet Pea, 



252 NATURAL HISTORY. 

GRASSES. 

Swamp Grafss, Sweet Flag, 

Bearded Thatch Grass, Chairmaker's Flag, 
Cotton Grass, Wild Millet. 

Most v of these roots and herbs possess medicinal and 
other properties ; but as my knowledge of them is very 
limited, I shall confine my remarks to those, with which 
I am best acquainted. 

Witch Hazel or Mineral Rod. — This, though the 
largest description of hazel, produces no nut ; but it is 
said that a detached branch of it, has the singular pro- 
perty of pointing to where minerals are deposited. — The 
Elder Tree is rather a large bush, growing on rich 
lands, and producing red clustered berries, and soft pink 
flowers. The flower is a soporifick ; the berry a ' pur- 
gative ; and the bark an emetic. — The Currants and 
fruit berries grow very abundantly ; are about the size 
of an English Cherry ; and make an agreeable wine, 
as well as excellent jellies and preserves. The Huckle- 
berries and Brambleberries also make good preserves, 
and will, if properly dried, keep all the year.—- The 
Bay Berry grows on a shrub, called by Linnaeus, the 
Myrica Cerifira. The berries are of a pale green colour, 
and contain an odoriferous matter resembling wax. 
This substance is extracted by boiling the berries in lie, 
which is afterwards strained ; and when the composi- 
tion cools the wax hardens on the surface, and affords 
a material for candles, little inferior to spermaceti. 



NATURAL HISTORY. 253 

From the Wild and Choke Cherries, by the follow- 
ing simple process, may be made a Noyectu, equal to 
that of the Island of Martinique. — Nearly fill a Jar with 
the cherries ; and then pour upon them as much good 
rum as the vessel will contain. Let it stand for a cou- 
ple of months, at the expiration of which, an extensive 
decomposition of the fruit shall have ensued. Then 
take out the remaining fruit and the kernels, pound them 
together, and replace them in the vessel, into which 
pour as much water as there is rum ; and adding a suf- 
ficient quantity of refined sugar, cork the Jar tightly, 
and in a month the liquor will be fit for use. 

The Indian Tea Tree is a small Shrub, hardly three 
feet high. It is much encumbered by a profusion of 
leaves ; the upper side whereof is a bright green ; and 
the under one a pale yellow. These leaves, when sweet" 
ened, make a pleasant tea, which the Indians adminis- 
ter as an effectual anti-scorbutic. — The Vine, or Maiden 
Hair, makes a more agreeable decoction, and requires 
less sweetening ; and the Negro Head, is a large black 
berry, much used for colouring liquors, and qualifying 
tarts, pies, &c. — The Ginseng is a long white root, run- 
ning about two inches under the surface ; and growing 
to about two feet in length. It generally grows in rich 
ground ; and is a valuable detergent for the blood. — 
TheCapalier is a delicately shaped shrub of about two 
feet and a half in height. It grows on intervales and 
small streams ; and bears a dense foliage of light green 
leaves, which, when boiled, afford a rich syrup, called 



254 NATURAL HISTORY. 

the Syrup of Capalier. — The Chocolate Root grows 
near swamps, and is of a dark brown color. It is sel- 
dom more than ten inches in length ; and appears as if 
combined by several knotty joints. A strong astringent, 
made from a decoction of this root, is considered an in- 
fallible remedy for the dysentery. — The Calamus, or 
Wild Ginger, is an excellent stomachic ; and the Blood 
Root, so called from its color, dyes a handsome pale 
yellow, and is considered good in cases of hemorrhage. 
— The Wild Cinnamon is a small white root, that makes 
an excellent perfume ; and resembles the cinnamon in 
flavour. It is very rare, and for its medicinal virtues, 
so highly esteemed by the Indians, that they conceal it 
from one another. — The Wintergreen is a small shrub 
seldom seen more than four inches high ; and is flower- 
ed by a few leaves, and one or two beautiful red ber- 
ries, growing near the top. The fruit is pleasant, and 
the leaves make an agreeable beverage. — The Sand- 
fire makes good pickles. — Agrimony is applied to re- 
move gravelly concretions ; and Motherwort is used in 
obstetrick cases. — The Gold Thread. — This is a deli- 
cate unobtrusive little vine, growing generally, from 
eight to twelve inches in length. Sequestered in rich 
mosses, this unpretending beauty lives in retirement, 
and veils its loveliness in the bosom of the earth. Its 
flavour is exceedingly bitter ; and among many other 
virtues that recommend it, the benefit a diseased mouth 
derives from its application is not the least. 



CHAPTER III. 



Objects of Natural History. 



STRUCTURE OF THE SOIL MINERAL PRODUCTIONS, &C 

On these matters, it would be as easy forme to weave 
an elaborate discussion, as it is difficult for me to afford 
much information. Of the sciences that illustrate them, 
my knowledge is very limited ; nor have I, in the 
course of my enquiries, met with any who seemed to 
have cultivated their acquaintance. For these cogent 
reasons, therefore, must I necessarily confine myself to 
a few familiar remarks. 

The base, or substratum of the Counties of Northum- 
berland and Kent, appears to be a bed of red and dark 



256 NATURAL HISTORY. 

sandstone, extending from Prince Edward's Island, across 
the Straits of Northumberland; thence southerly to- 
wards Westmoreland ; and in a North-westerly line to 
the River Nipisiguit, where a range of mountains, ex- 
tending from the Saint Lawrence, interpose a primitive 
formation. 

In the two above counties, the general surface of the 
soil is, first — a thin layer of black or brown mould, com- 
posed of decayed vegetable substances, below which, 
to the depth of a foot, or perhaps a little more, a light 
loam, inclining in some places, to a sandy, and in others, 
to clayey character, generally prevails. Under this, 
and intervening between it, and the sandstone base, a 
stiff dark clay is the most predominent structure. In 
its natural state, the quality of the soil may be easily 
ascertained by the description of wood growing on it. 
Hence, the lands in which the Maple, Beech, black 
Birch, and a mixture of other trees luxuriate, are al- 
ways rich and marly ; while those where the Fir, 
Spruce, Larch, and other species of the pine tribe grow, 
are invariably light and less fertile. 

The substratum of the sea board of the Co. of Glouces- 
ter, from Tracadie and along the Bay shore, on to Petit 

Roche, is of the same character as that of Northumber- 
land and Kent ; but thence onwards, up the Restigouche, 
and through the interior, a variety of formations are in- 
volved. At Petit Roche, and for some miles above it, 
there appears to be an extensive bed of limestone ; and 



NATURAL HISTORY. 2&7 

thence upwards, a liberal distribution of both primitive 
and secondary rocks. 

On the Restigouche, the whole country has a very 
primordial appearance, several of the mountains exhi- 
biting in their construction, the ordinary evidences of 
primitive formation. From the opportunities I have had 
of inspecting some of the most prominent mountains on 
this river, and in other parts of La Bate des Chaleurs, I 
am disposed to class them as primitive, transition, and 
flaetz ; and this classification is sustained, I think, by 
the size and position of the Strata, of which they are 
composed. In some, the Strata, or tabular masses, are 
very thick, and either vertical or inclined ; while in others, 
they are thin and horizontal. The two former positions 
generally distinguish tka^tratification of the primitive 
and transition rocks ; and the latter is the uniform cha- 
racteristic of the flaetz. In some of the transition and 
flaetz strata, as well as in the alluvial soils, various pe- 
trifactions and fossils have been occasionally found. 
These are said to consist principally, of testaceous and 
crustaceous shells, and bones of different kinds of fish ; 
and of small animals. 

Now these strata being produced by separate deposits, 
it is manifest, that the fossils found in any particular 
stratum of the transition or flaetz, must have belonged 
to the fishes which existed when that particular stra- 
tum was deposited ; and it is equally evident, that what- 
ever animal remains are found in any particular allu- 

32 



250 NATURAL HISTORY. 

vion, must have belonged to the fishes that inhabited 
the water, or to the quadrupeds that lived on the earth, 
when such deposita were made. To those who have ne- 
ver considered these circumstances, the following re- 
markable fact, may afford some illustrative testimony. 

In 1816, Mr. Whitby discovered some fossil remains 
of the Rhinoceros, enclosed in the limestone rock, from 
which he was then forming the break-water at Ply- 
mouth. These bones were found in the solid rock, 160 
feet from the original edge of the cliff, and surrounded 
on every side by equally strong stones, so as to exhibit 
no mark of any external opening. It was filled with 
clay, and was 15 feet wide, 45 feet long, and 12 deep. 
The bones were in an unusually high state of preser- 
vation ; and upon being analysed, were found to con- 
tain a very minute quantity of animal matter. They 
consisted, chiefly of phosphate and carbonate of lime, in 
the proportion of nearly 2 to 1 ; but a portion of the 
tooth was observed to include a much larger quantity 
of the phosphate of lime, with very little more of animal 
matter. 

Were I disposed to contend with the seep tick, who 
vainly affects to doubt the scriptural history of the de- 
luge, I would tell him that the experience of geologists 
eminently subserves to prove its authenticity. The re- 
vealed account of this instance of God's displeasure, is 
satisfactorily attested by the fossil remains of animals, 
which, though found in every quarter of this globe, must 



NATURAL HISTORY. 259 

have belonged to a former one. Thus, on the summits 
of the highest mountains, such as the Andes, the Alps, 
the Appenines, &c. have shells, skeletons of fish, and 
remains of other marine animals been frequently found. 
The Moose, a native of America, has been found in Ire- 
land ; the Elephants of Asia and Africa, are seen in 
England ; Crocodiles have been observed in the heart 
of Germany. The Rhinoceros, Hippopotamus, Tiger, 
and Hyena, are familiar in Scotland ; and the Mammoth, 
supposed to belong exclusively to the Antediluvian 
world, has been often discovered in Russia, Ireland, and 
America. 

The soil of these three Counties may be thus charac- 
terized : — a rich upland ; a deep clayey loam ; and a 
light friable earth, with a dispersion of Insulae and al- 
luvion, up the rivers ; marshes about the Estuaries ; 
and barrens through the interior. 

The Islands and alluvial lands are exceedingly rich, 
producing a luxuriant growth of Ash, Elm, Butternut, 
&c. Upon the Marshes grow a strong wholesome 
grass, extremely useful for feeding cattle in winter. — 
When dyked, they make up excellent meadows ; and 
often have, after being well ploughed, yielded heavy 
crops of wheat. The barrens are composed of a light 
brown sand ; rarely produce any thing but dry moss 
and shrubs : and, in their general appearance, resemble 
districts wasted by fire. The same description of soil 
prevails with a good deal of uniformity throughout the 



300 NATURAL HISTORY. 

whole Province, the surface whereof, may be called a 
general diversity, exhibiting in its outline, an easy and 
agreeable mixture of primitive and secondary forma- 
tions . The vegetable productions are Wheat, Oats, Bar- 
ley, Rye, Maize, Beans, Pease, and Buck-wheat ; all of 
which, as well as a variety of hortulan plants, roots, 
and ground crops, does every county in the Province 
yield abundantly. In addition to these general capabi- 
lities, the three counties of which we more immediately 
treat, are admirably adapted for the cultivation of hemp 
and flax : and are, for raising Live Stock, little inferior 
to any part of the colonies. 



MINERAL PRODUCTIONS. 

In a country where there are but few scholars, and 
where almost every one is engaged in commerce, agri- 
culture, or some other familiar pursuit, by the assidu- 
ous cultivation of which, they hope to acquire a desira- 
ble competency, it cannot be supposed there are many 
profoundly versed in the abstruse sciences. But al- 
though this immature state of erudition, conjunctively 
with the unexplored condition of the country, naturally 
circumcribes our knowledge of its internal character, 
we are not altogether in the dark concerning its occult 
resources. T&eir intrusion in several places, has par- 
tially supplied the deficiency of our perception. 

There is abundance of Coal at the Grand Lake ; on 



NATURAL HISTORY. 261 

the Richibucto ; in different parts of the Miramichi ; 
throughout La Bate des Chaleurs ; and on the Resti- 
gouche. Limestone is common in several districts of 
the Saint John, and in many places through the county 
of Gloucester. Gypsum is found up the Bay of Fundy ; 
Manganese has shewn itself at Quaco ; Granite is fami- 
liar in some districts ; a good description of Slate is ve- 
ry prominent ; and Freestone of the same character 
seems to be exhaustless. Various kinds of Ochimy are 
also very plentiful ; and good specimens of Lead, Iron, 
and Copper Ore, have been occasionally found. 

But to speak more decidedly, let us particularize the 
places and circumstances, connected with the Minera- 
logy of these counties ; recollecting, that the informa- 
tion does not result from enquiry, but rather from the 
intrusion of the minerals themselves. 



NORTHUMBERLAND. 

Towards the head of the Minagua, or North West, 
there are unequivocal indications of Iron Ore, Coal and 
Slate. On the Etienne, the Renous, and the Barnaby, 
there are in many places, similar appearances. At 
Murdoch's point ; on the South side of the Miramichi ; 
and thence for two miles up, Coal is visible ; and be- 
tween Douglastown, and French-Fort Cove, the exist- 
ence of the same mineral is unequivocally developed. 
Near the mouth of the Bartibog, and in several places 



M2 NATURAL HISTORY. 

up that river, Coal is distinctly visible, lying generally, 
in horizontal layers, and occupying nearly an equal dis- 
tance from the land wash and the surface of the earth. 
This river, from the discolouration of the water, and 
from other corroborative features, is undoubtedly the 
depository of metallic substances. The same opinion, 
founded upon similar appearances, may, with equal cer- 
tainty, be maintained concerning other parts of the 
county. 

At Douglastown ; on Bait des Vents River ; in the vi- 
cinity of Chatham ; and about Gilmour & Rankin's 
Mill Cove ; petrifactions and fossil remains have been 
occasionally picked up. 

At Black's brook, near Saint Andrew's point, there 
is a mineral spring, from which issues water, having a 
red cast, and smelling, as if it had been sometime ly- 
ing in a rusty Iron vessel. In the immediate vicinity 
of this spring, the water is crested with a sparkling 
foam resembling quick silver, while the land is impreg- 
nated with small bright particles of the same descrip- 
tion. Several persons who drank this water, while 
afflicted with a distempered liver, have assured me 
that they derived considerable benefit from its use^ 
Without entering into conjecture, I shall close this 
statement by affirming, that many of the rivers and 
streams in Northumberland, are discoloured by sediment 
running from various springs, which appear to consist 
of metallic oxides. 






NATURAL HISTORY. 263 

KENT. 

At Child's Creek, on the Richibucto, petrifactions of 
various kinds, have been repeatedly found ; and at 
Church point, the projection where the Presbyterian 
Chapel stands, the beach is literally strewed with petri- 
fied chips, consisting principally, of beech, hemlock, 
and spruce. Here are several boiling springs gushing 
from the bed of the river ; and in them, no doubt, is the 
petrifactive property lodged. The brooks flowing from 
McAlmon's plains into the Mill Stream, are discoloured 
with a brown rust resembling the oxide of iron ; and 
ten miles higher up, on the same side of the river, there 
are similar appearances. On the branches of Bass ri- 
ver, a tributary of the Richibucto, there are many 
springs highly impregnated with iron, and which depo- 
sit in their course, a kind of brownish sediment of tolera- 
ble consistency. Some of these springs are of the 
chalybeate kind ; and the use of others have frequent- 
ly proved medicinal to cattle. 

At the entrance of the East branch of the Saiat Ni- 
cholas, pieces of ore, resembling lead, have been occa- 
sionally found. Of these, some specimens analyzed by 
Dr. Wilson,' of Westmoreland, were found to contain 
nearly one-tenth of silver. Upon the main Saint Nicho- 
las, specimens of sulphate of iron, and also of various 
kinds of Ochimy, have been frequently picked up along 
the beach. In Galloway Creek, on the North side of 
the Richibucto, there are two or three mineral springs-, 



264 NATURAL HISTORY. 

resembling in taste and colour, the springs at Lough- 
an-Breack, and the waters of Moffat, in Dumfrieshire. 

In front of the town of Liverpool, is also a delightful 
fresh water spring, coming percolated through fine sand 
and gravel. This spring, though situated in a vehement 
part of the tideway, is exceedingly clear and transpa- 
rent ; and boils up with such energy, that it repels the 
salt water even at the highest springs, thereby preserv- 
ing an uncorrupted freshness for four or five feet all 
round it. 

On the South branch of the Richibucto, about two 
miles above Mr, Ford's mills, a deep seam of Coal, visi- 
bly extending from a short distance below the surface, 
and thence downwards seven or eight feet, seems to 
stretch with uniform width, about six miles up the ri- 
ver. For some time back, this mine has been rather 
extensively worked. Early last spring, I saw several 
Sleighs of coal brought from thence to Liverpool ; and 
as I resided where part of them was used, can aver, 
that these extractions, at least, burned brightly, afford- 
ed great heat, and indicated the possession of a consi- 
derable quantity of bitumen, with but little ashes, and 
scarcely any volatile matter. On Buctouche, Kouchi- 
bouguac, and some other rivers in this county, petri- 
factions are very common ; and in some of the barrens 
through the interior, as well as on the marshes skirting 
the coast, large portions of the mossy or porous surface 
appears to be in a forward state of crystallization. 






NATURAL HISTORY. 265 

GLOUCESTER. 

At Pockshaw, and thence through the high lands, 
called " the Capes," several strata of coal, disposed in 
horizontal layers, appear. These strata commence 
about five feet above the land wash ; and thence as- 
cend in equal and regular grades, to within a few feet of 
the surface. Here, the beach, for some miles, is often 
strewed with large lumps of this mineral. — On the 
Big Nipisiguit, appearances of Iron, Copper, and other 
metallic substances, are both unequivocal and nu- 
merous. On the Tootoogoose, a short distance in the 
rear of Mr. Munro's residence, there are two exten- 
sive quarries, one of excellent Freestone, the other 
of Slate ; and directly opposite, on the other side of 
the river, are two similar ones. 

At Petit Roche, there are deep and extensive strata of 
very hard Limestone ; and in all probability, the sub- 
structure from the lower part of this settlement, half 
way to Belledune, is composed of the same material, in- 
terspersed with a mixture of coarse Granite. In the 
cliffs, extending from Eel river, to Dalhousie, petrifac- 
tions and metallic appearances are quite common. At 
Point Ainimpk, on the Restigouche, there is a Coal 
Mine, of probably great extent. For more than five 
miles along the beach, in the vicinity of this point, 
have lumps of coal been frequently found ; and with 
these have the lumberers often made fires. From some 
specimens obtained here, and which I afterwards tried, 

33 



200 NATURAL HISTORY. 

I am of opinion, that this coal is of the same descrip- 
tion as that of Richibueto* Mr. Reid, the person who 
resides here, is an intelligent man, and by trade a Black- 
smith. He appears to be conversant with the construc- 
tion and different properties of coal mines ; and told me 
that the upper stratum, or cross vein, as he termed it, 
was within a few feet of the surface, a circumstance 
he alledged, that invariably indicates a deep mine. A 
short distance above this, the land unquestionably 
contains metallic ores ; nor do I think we would be far 
wrong, were we to ascribe the same property to Mag« 
pasha. Coal is said to be plentiful on the Upsalquitch, 
and up the Matepediac ; and from the general appear- 
ance of the country, it requires but a reasonable belief 
to credit the assertion. The hard rocky land above the 
former, seems to be a primitive formation ; it is of a 
green complexion, and resembles the stone, of which, 
it is affirmed, porphyry forms a constituent part. The 
shore in many parts of the Restigouche, and also on 
the North side of the Bay, is strewed with an almost 
countless variety of beautiful shells, pebbles, small co- 
rals, and a description of stone resembling the topaz. 

Without pretending to notice the Geological proper- 
ties of Gaspe, I may mention, that the whole coast, to 
judge from its appearance, seems to abound with mi- 
nerals ; and although such a belief is not the conse- 
quence of actual investigation^ it may, notwithstanding, 
be cherished on stronger grounds than mere conjecture. 

At Port Daniel, in this district, there is an exten- 



NATURAL HISTORY. 267 

sive bed of primitive limestone ; and the reason why I 
ascribe this order of formation to it is ; — its texture is 
transparent, granular, and foliated, nor does it contain 
any organic remains . The limestone at Petit Roche, from 
its less crystalline texture, and organic incorporatives, 
I am disposed to consider as a secondary formation. 
From the wild and sublime appearance of the country 
encompassing La Baie des Chaleurs, — from the numerous 
and diversified mountains that compose it — and from the 
bare and lofty peaks that tower above these mountains, 
as well as from the numerous torrents that rush through 
the intersecting glens, I think myself justified in assert- 
ing, that the whole may be termed a granitic district. 



CHAPTER IV. 



Objects of Natural History. 



CLIMATE AND SOIL. 

The temperature of^any country,^depends on a va- 
riety of circumstances, of which the action of L the solar 
rays, and the degree of latitude, are the most influen- 
tial. When the sun's rays strike the earth obliquely, 
they produce but a trifling effect, and this, with the 
great iengih of the night, no doubt, occasions the exces- 
sive cold of the polar regions. And hence navigators, 
who have, from time to time, attempted to find the N. 
E. passage, have never been able to sail beyond the 
80th degree of North latitude, being there opposed by 
prodigious mountains of ice : and the intrepid Sir Hugh 
Willoughby, who, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, 
endeavoured to force that point, did, together with all 
his crew, perish in the attempt. 



NATURAL HISTORY. 260 

But although the oblique influence of the sun, nega- 
tively produces cold, inasmuch as it withholds warmth, 
the direct or vertical action of the solar rays, does not 
of itself produce heat on the surface of the earth. For 
instance, the tops of the highest mountains are always 
cold ; and the summits of many of them are covered 
with perpetual snow, while the valleys beneath enjoy a 
general warmth, that produces a rich and rapid vegeta- 
tion. The Andes, though exposed to the full blaze of 
a meridian sun, are covered with snow ; and present 
all the horrors and desolation of an arctick winter. In- 
deed, under every climate, the higher we ascend in the 
atmosphere, the greater is the degree of cold we ex- 
perience ; nor is there any region under Heaven, pro- 
vided the land be sufficiently elevated, that is totally 
exempt from the dominion of frost and snow. This is 
incontrovertibly proved by the experience of aeronauts, 
who have always found it cold in the region of the clouds. 
Nor is the latitude of a place, by any means an infalli- 
ble criterion, by which to judge of the heat and cold 
that prevail there ; for we commonly find that Islands 
are less subject to the extremes of both, than continents 
are ; nor can any reason be assigned for this difference, 
except we admit that the sea preserves a more equable 
temperature than the land. This reasoning equally 
applies to Islands and Continents, whether in their na- 
tural or reclaimed state. The sea-encircled position of 
the one, naturally induces salubrity ; while the inter- 
nal situation of the other, exposes it to the extremities of 
heat and cold. Countries, extensively covered with wood, 



270 NATURAL HISTORY. 

and intersected by water, be they Islands or Continents, 
experience a much greater degree of cold, than those 
which have been highly cultivated and improved. The 
cause of this is as follows . — One of the chief sources of 
cold is evaporation, and the reason of this is, because 
that process is attended with a considerable absorption 
of caloric ; and hence does the draining of countries tend 
to improve their temperature ; for the water being, by 
that expedient, drawn off into narrow channels, it is no 
longer permitted to evaporate in any considerable degree. 
This is demonstrated by the fact, that cultivation has 
greatly contributed to ameliorate the climate of Europe, 
as well as that of America. 

Italy is much warmer at present, than it was in for- 
mer times ; and the poets who flourished in the reign 
of Augustus, frequently speak of the freezing of the Ti- 
ber ; and of the prevalence of frost and snow at Rome. 
Now, the Tiber is never frozen ; nor does snow hardly 
ever intrude, for two days together, within the pre- 
cincts of the Italian Capital. Diodorus describes anci- 
ent Gaul, as being extremely cold \ and Aristotle says it 
was a climate, so frigid, that an Ass could not live in it. 
Two thousand years ago, it was the residence of the 
Elk, and the Reindeer, now only to be found in the 
Northern countries, or in the Northern parts of Ame- 
rica, under the names of Moose and Carriboo. ©vid 
says, that in his time, the Euxine, or Black Sea, was 
frozen over every winter ; and Strabo assures us, that 
the Northern part of Spain was but thinly inhabited, in 



NATURAL HISTORY. 271 

consequence of the extreme cold. Were it necessary, 
multiplied instances of the benificent change, produced 
in climates, by cultivation, might be easily adduced from 
the testimony of both ancient and modern writers. 

From what has been said, coupled with what we 
could say, it is manifestly evident, that the several 
countries of Europe, are warmer now than they were 
formerly ; and that this change has proceeded from the 
cutting down of woods ; the cultivation of wilderness 
lands ; and the draining of marshy grounds ; all which 
has enabled the atmosphere to retain a large portion of 
calorifick matter, formerly expended in evaporation. 

As New Brunswick, though cold, lies in nearly the 
same parallel of latitude as the south of Germany, where 
the climate is mild and temperate, we arrive, by a na- 
tural parity of reasoning, at this conclusion. The 
cause of the severity of the winter here is: — the most 
prevailing winds of that season are the North and 
North Westerly, which issuing from the direction of the 
North Pole, and sweeping over inhospitable regions 
and prodigious wastes, where genial warmth is never 
known, and acquiring cold in their passage across the 
shores of Hudson's Bay, the Labrador, and the Eastern 
shore of the St. Lawrence, carry with them a frigidity, 
which they belch upon Nova Scotia and New Brun- 
swick. The numerous lakes and ravines intersecting 
this immense territory, help to conduct the wind and in- 
crease its pungency ; while the high mountains, re- 



272 NATURAL HISTORY. 

taining the snow, and dense forests resisting the action 
of the sun's rays, also materially contribute to produce 
the effect. 

The climate is healthy and temperate ; local diseases 
are unknown ; and instances of surprising longevity ve- 
ry common. The snow commences, generally, about 
the latter end of December, but rarely becomes perma- 
nent till early in January, from which time, until the 
end of March, intermittent frosts and snow storms pre- 
vail. These, however, though in an eminent degree 
essential to the manufacturing interest and trade of the 
country, are neither so frequent, nor so severe as for- 
merly. It is a remarkable fact, that during the last thir- 
ty years, the climate of this Province has wonderfully 
improved, a change, which no doubt, is ascribable to the 
growing influence of agriculture, tempering the keen 
Northerly winds to which I have alluded. 

Indeed, although winter is still cold, it is remarkably 
pleasant. The frost by providing us with excellent 
highways, only facilitates intercourse ; the air is clear 
and bracing ; the sky generally cloudless, and illumina- 
ted by a bright and fervent sun. And although the 
spring comes round rather slowly, no inconvenience re- 
sults from its tardiness, for nature kindly obviates the 
embarrassment, by favouring us with a surprisingly rapid 
vegetation, ending in an early and an abundant har- 
vest. 

As irrefragable proofs of the rapidity with which both 



NATURAL HISTORY. 273 

the climate and occupation of New Brunswick have ad- 
vanced, it may be mentioned, that it was first settled by 
the Loyalists, in 1784, — that it was then a complete wil- 
derness, — and that it now contains several flourishing 
Towns ; an University and many other valuable insti- 
tutions ; a great amount of commercial and reclaimed 
capital ; and a thriving population of more than 120,000 
souls. As well to vindicate the fecundity of the soil, 
as to show the rapidity of vegetation, I need only state/ 

that seed time commences about the middle of May ; 
that the harvest is generally collected in September ; and 

that potatoes, planted early in July, often yield a luxu- 
riant crop at the same time in October. 

The summer season, though for a while very warm, 
is neither dangerous, nor distressing. May and June 
are invigorating and salubrious months ; and the intense 
heat of July and August, is fanned by refreshing sea 
breezes that ventilate the atmosphere and qualify its 
fervor ; while the evening dews, by anointing the 
earth, protect it from the parching influence of the sun ; 
at the same time, that these dews themselves are de- 
prived of their sting, by light westerly winds that seem 
to kiss away their venom. September and October are 
delightful months ; and November and December, though 
cool in a subordinate degree, are very pleasant, and re- 
gularly distinguished by a brief interval of warm wea- 
ther, called an Indian summer. 

From what has been said it manifestly appears, that 
34 



274 NATURAL HISTORY. 

the temperature of this Province, arises more from the 
atmospheric influence of other countries,than from any in- 
herent properties in our soil, our climate, or our situation ; 
and consequently, that the cold of winter, and the heat 
of summer, are both the effects of external causes. That 
one is primarily occasioned by the keen northerly winds 
proceeding from, and crossing over bleak and inhospita- 
ble regions ; and that the other is conferred by the sul- 
try breezes of the south, emerging from, and passing 
through warm and cultivated countries. 

As I have already stated, that my acquaintance with 
these subjects is very limited, I shall now close the con- 
sideration of them, by briefly describing the appear- 
ance of the 

AURORA BOREALIS, OR NORTHERN LIGHTS. 

In this country, during the harvest, winter, and spring 
months, these beautiful and splendid phenomena appear 
frequently, and always with peculiar brilliancy. They 
are usually seen in calm nights, between the setting of 
the sun, and the closing of twilight. They generally 
emerge from the north, and trace their luminous career 
along the space between the summit of the clouds, and 
the edge of the horizon ; their brightness, on these oc- 
casions, frequently eclipsing the quadrature effulgence 
of the moon. Sometimes they appear in indefinable 
shapes ; at others they assume the form of an arch, or 
broad crescent, whose extremities measure the horizon ; 



NATURAL HISTORY. 275 

and occasionally they resemble separate columns, whose 
movements remind the observer of the evolutions of an 
army. Their change from the similitude of a crescent 
to that of columns, is generally very sudden, and to ap- 
pearance, effected by an accession of blue spears. Af- 
ter moving majestically in pillars of light, as well as in 
a variety of other figures, they suddenly vanish, as it 
were, in mockery of the beholders. Their glory, how- 
ever, is only veiled for a moment, for scarcely have we 
recovered from the astonishment inspired by their pre- 
cipitate retreat, when they again flash upon the vision 
with increased splendour. 

I have often attentively contemplated the Northern 
Lights ; but more especially, while they have exhibited 
the similitude of military evolutions ; and on these oc- 
casions, have I repeatedly heard, issuing from them, a 
sort of whizzing noise, not unlike the indistinct sounds, 
proceeding from remote discharges of musketry. The 
appearance of these Lumina is of recent date, nor has 
it yet been satisfactorily explained. The probable cause 
may be the reflection of the sun's rays, setting upon 
some body of water, formerly frozen. They seldom ap- 
pear after 12 o'clock at night ; and very frequently he- 
rald a N. E. Gale. 

In different parts of England, these lights were for- 
merly called streamers, merry dancers, and burning 
spears ; and were considered by some, to predict some 
important change in the country, over which they ap- 



276 NATURAL HISTORY. 

peared.* Their altitude, as the annexed table shows, 
is very irregular, varying from 70 to 1 ,000 miles above 
the surface of the earth ; and sometimes even higher 
and lower. 

Miles. 
In 1731, they were observed at Copenhagen, at 6S6 

1750, . at Paris, at 463 

1751, , , * atUpsala, at 1,006 
1784, . . . at London, at 62 



♦Shortly after the insurrection of 1745, the Northern Lights were observed 
at Glasgow, on which occasion, a zealous Antijacobite, ambitious of decla- 
ring his attachment to the Hanoverian dynasty, affirmed that they were illu- 
minations in Heaven for the defeat of the rebels. 



CHAPTER I. 



RESOURCES. 



There is no climate, however inhospitable, that does 
not possess internal resources, which, if judiciously cul- 
tivated, would provide its inhabitants with all the ne- 
cessaries, and even some of the luxuries of life. Where 
the sterility of the land derides the husbandman's indus- 
try, the fruitfulness of the sea coast generously supplies 
the deficiency ; for what the plough cannot effect, the 
net is adequate to accomplish. Enterprize or cupidity 
may create commerce, but neither of them can sustain 
it. Its perpetuity results from the combined action of 
other causes. Reciprocal wants, supplied by mutual 
industry, approximate the most remote countries ; fa- 
miliarize strangers ; and strengthen the bonds of inter- 
national connexion. For an illustration of these posi- 
tions, we have but to refer to the extensive trade, car- 
ried on between the fertile countries, bathed by the 
Mediterranean, and the inhospitable climes, encircled 
by the polar seas. With a wisdom, rivalled only by his 
love, and with an equitable governance, which nothing 
but his omnipotence can equal, does the benificent Cre- 
ator of all, kindly suit the inexhaustible treasures of his 
bounty, to the diversified wants and circumstances of all 



278 NATURAL HISTORY. 

his creatures. And thus, are the seemingly impoverish- 
ed regions of the north, enabled to sustain an extensive 
commerce with the apparently more favoured nations of 
the south. His Providence ordereth all things well ; 
and the whole stately fabric of universal nature, is en- 
wrapt in a raiment, woven by his skill, and dyed in the 
reflected hues of his glory. 

Upon New Brunswick, has a munificent Providence, 
liberally conferred the imperishable elements of an ex- 
tensive and aggrandizing commerce. Salmon, Macka- 
rel, Gaspereaux, Shad, Bass, &c. swarm in every river, 
and live in every rivulet. Nor is the coast one degree 
poorer than the interior ; for all varieties of sea fish, in 
their respective seasons, literally besiege the bays and 
harbours that indent it. Still, however, although thus 
eminently favoured, it may be said that these great re- 
sources have been almost entirely neglected. Scarcely 
have the fisheries been sufficiently cultivated to supply 
domestic consumption ; and too frequently, has even the 
little done in this way, been in direct violation of the 
Fishery Laws. 

There is not, I am free to say, a Province in the N; 
A. Colonies, more eminently endowed with natural ad- 
vantages, than New Brunswick. Every river abounds 
with fish ; a rich assortment of timber, alike adapted 
for ship building and exportation, luxuriates in its fo- 
rests ; and a fertile soil clothes its surface. But not- 
withstanding, a series of years have rolled away, and 



NATURAL HISTORY. 279 

we have made but little progress. And why ? Because 
the water has been unexplored— the forest over-levied— 
and the soil neglected. Nor can we, as a people, rea- 
sonably hope to advance, until we impartially distribute 
our solicitude over all our resources. Nor does this 
involve either anxiety or risque ; for what more is it, 
than to lumber moderately — Fish vigorously — and Farm 
steadily. These are the three great branches, which, 
if prudently worked, will employ the various resources 
of the country, and rouse into profitable action, ener- 
gies that have long slumbered under the debilitating 
controul of infatuation. Lumbering, Fishing, and Agri- 
culture, constitute the triple machine, by whose uni- 
form evolutions alone, can our commerce be sustained, 
or the interest of our country promoted. And if we 
work it judiciously, avoiding friction by violence, and 
rust by disuse, it will eventually become the lever, that 
will raise this young and beautiful country to compara- 
tive affluence. 

Franklin, by nature a philosopher, by experience a 
politician ; a financier from habit, and a patriot from 
principle, has affirmed — " That he who puts a seed into 
the ground, is recompensed by receiving forty for it ; 
and that he who draws a fish out of the water, draws 
out a piece of silver." This distinguished economist 
well knew, what, it would seem, we have yet to learn, 
namely, that although an adventitious trade may array 
a declining country in the costume of apparent improve- 
ment, it never can promote its real prosperity. The 
gaudy trappings of the wardrobe may embellish the 



280 NATURAL HISTORY 

drooping form of the invalid ; and the inordinate pro* 
secution of an exclusive branch of trade may confer the 
appearance of opulence ; but one is only the expression 
of a cowardly attachment to life ; the other but the 
undisciplined action of an ill-concerted enterprize. Both 
act invertly ; — one abridges existence by the very means 
it uses for its protraction ; and the other, instead of ac- 
cumulating wealth, only entails bankruptcy. 

We have too long wasted our energies by exclusively 
prosecuting the timber trade ; but it is high time to re- 
flect, that the forest is a perishable resource, and that 
its ultimate exhaustion is absolutely inevitable. Let us, 
then, by the practical adoption of a familiar admonition, 
exemplify our sagacity, and evince our promptitude. 
Let us, taking time by the forelock, avert the evil by an«< 
ticipation, and supply the diminution of one resource by 
the cultivation of another. Let us turn our attention 
to Agriculture and the Fisheries, encouraged by the as- 
surance, " That he who puts a seed into the ground, 
may receive forty for it ; and that he who draws a fish 
out of the water, draws out a piece of silver." Then 
will our Timber Trade, strengthened by a salutary res- 
traint, remunerate both manufacturer and shipper ; — 
Then will the Fisheries render their unsolicited tribute ; 
then will our Commerce, invigorated by variety, be- 
come both agreeable and profitable ; — and then will ver- 
dure clothe the heath, and corn issue from the moun- 
tain, and the swamps fructify, and the valleys abound, 
and the wilderness blossom into a granary. 



DISTRICT OF GASPE, 



Geographical position — Early History. 

The District of Gaspe, or the north side of La Bate du 
Chaleurs, forms a Peninsula, stretching down the west- 
ern shore of the Gulf of Saint Lawrence, from Cape 
Chat to Cape Rosier, in a south easterly direction ; and 
thence westerly to Matepediac Lake, where it is con- 
nected with the Continent, by an Isthmus of sixteen or 
seventeen miles. It comprehends a sea board of 480 
miles, commencing at Cape Chat, the entrance of the 
River St. Lawrence ; and thence down the western 
shore, about 136 miles, into Gaspe Bay, a deep inlet of 
twenty-one miles in length, and twelve in breadth, the 
entrance whereof, is formed by a promontory called the 
Old Woman, on the East, and a high beach, denomina- 
ted Point Saint Peters, on the West. From this it ex- 
tends about 55 miles, to Point Mackarel, at the mouth of 
La Baie des Chaleurs ; and thence along the north shore 
of that Bay, for 290 miles, to the head of the Resti- 
gouche. 

This district has a contemplated rear of twelve 

leagues ; thereby making it to be about 480 miles in 

letigth, and 36 miles in breadth. It is divided into two 

Counties, the extent and boundaries of which are as 

follows : 

33 



282 DISTRICT OF GASPE. 

Gaspe County } extending* from Cape Chat to Point 
Mackarel ; and bounded on the south and south east, by 
the Gulf of Saint Lawrence ; and on the north and 
nor? h wcs f , by the County of Cornwallis. And Bonaven- 
turc County, comprehending from Point Mackarel, to 
the head of the Restigouche River ; and bounded on the 
south, by that River, and La Eaic des Chaleurs ; on the 
west, by a part of the State of Maine ; and on the north, 
by the said County of Cornwallis. This division was 
but recently made, for formerly, the whole District com- 
prised but one county, sending one solitary member to 
Parliament. Its unwieldy size ; its increasing popula- 
tion, and the repeated prayers of the people, supplica- 
ting a recognition of their rights, and an enlargement of 
their franchise, prevailed at length with the Canadian 
Government, and induced them to make the present par- 
tition. 

Gaspe County, being but rather thinly inhabited, sends 
only one member to the Legislature ; but Bonaventure, 
being more populous, is represented by two. Since its 
erection, the former has derived no benefit whate- 
ver from the exercise of its elective franchise, for Mr. 
Christie, the Gentleman whom the electors unanimous- 
ly returned in the first instance, was expelled by the 
House of Assembly ; and ever since, have his constitu- 
ents, as nobly, as independently, and as regularly elect- 
ed him ; as his compeers have meanly, unconstitution- 
ally, and uniformly repeated his expulsion. Among his 
constituents, who are unquestionably the most compe- 



DISTRICT OF GASPE. 283 

tent judges of his character and principles, Mr. C. is 
most decidedly a favorite ; but with a majority of the 
Legislature, who, very possibly, may be influenced by 
some private resentment, is he an object of implacable* 
aversion. 

The consequence resulting from an honorable stand, 
made by a people determined to be free ; and from an. 
unwarrantable opposition, conceived by a few resolved 
to be malevolent, is, that the Inhabitants of Gaspe, 
though to all intents and purposes, British subjects, are, 
like Aliens, excluded from all the advantages of free re- 
presentation. As this question is likely to come under 
the notice of the Imperial Parliament, I shall dismiss the 
consideration of it, barely recording my opinion and my 
wish, by saying, that as the people have an undoubted 
right to choose whom they please, I fervently hope their 
choice may be confirmed. 

HISTORICAL SKETCH. 

It appears, that between the treaty of Breda, which 
ceded Acadia to the French in 1667, and the reconquest 
of it in 1690, that the French Government of Canada, 
zealously endeavoured to establish Settlements, in both 
Gloucester and Gaspe. It is said, that during the above 
interim, they instituted a Fishing Company at Miscou, 
in the former ; and commenced a small town at Port 
Daniel, another at Paspibiac, and a third on the north 
side of the Restigouche, in the latter. That they had, 
at this remote period, military posts on the Restigouche, 
at Port Daniel, and in Gaspe Basin, is also asserted. 



384 DISTRICT OF GASPE. 

Theie endeavours, thus to strengthen their interest 
in this quarter, harmonize with the whole tenor of 
French policy, during the reign of our William and Ma- 
ry. They had already carried their claims after terri- 
tory to a most unwarrantable pitch. Availing them- 
selves of a temporary distraction in England, they had 
encroached upon Newfoundland ; invaded the Carribee 
Islands ; taken forcible possession of New York and Hud- 
son's Bay ; and even openly espoused the cause of King 
James in Ireland. 

After the unfortunate bombardment of Saint Maloes, 
and the equally abortive expedition against Newfound- 
land, by the combined fleets of Great Britain, and Hol- 
land ; several families from the former place, and like- 
wise from Bordeaux, as well as other French sea ports, 
settled in different parts of this district. It may be 
strongly presumed, however, that the more extensive 
settlement of the country did not take pla,ce, till after 
the treaty of Ryswick. By this convention, ratified in 
1697 ; although Acadia reverted to France, that nation 
had to relinquish nearly all the territory it had acquired 
from Spain and Holland. Under these circumstances, 
it may be reasonably concluded, that the French go- 
vernment made the most of their condition. Indeed, 
their assiduity on this score, is strongly manifested in 
their schemes about the Spanish succession ; their de- 
signs on Poland ; their evasive treaties of partition ; 
and their notorious piracies in the gulf of Saint Law- 
rence. 



DISTRICT OF GASPE. 285 

We may suppose these settlements to have been 
slowly advancing until the year 1712, when a crude and 
imbecile expedition, planned by Colonel Nicholson, was 
sent by the British government, against Quebec and 
Placentia. This affair was confided to Brigadier Hill, 
and Sir Hovendon Walker, and as its failure developed 
our designs, it only inspired Louis with additional zeal 
for the occupation of Canada. 

The French king, being obliged by the treaty of 
Utrecht, signed in 1713, to abandon the Pretender ; ac- 
knowledge Queen Anne's title ; subscribe to the Protest- 
ant succession ; raze the fortifications of Dunkirk ; and 
cede Newfoundland, Hudson's Bay, and Nova Scotia, to 
the British ; even this remote district, derived some ad- 
vantage from a very general solicitude, then awakened 
in France, for securing the possession of their other 
Colonies in America. As having a tendency to insure 
this effect, emigration from France was strenuously 
encouraged ; — a settlement was commenced at Bona- 
venture ; different parts of the coast were garrisoned ; 
two military stations were formed on the Restigouche ; 
and considerable additions were made to Petit R&chelle, a 
town and cantonment on the same river. 

Although from the earliest period to which we refer, 
down to the abdication of Buonaparte, the muse of both 
French and English history, may be said to have resi- 
ded in the camp, the humble dependency of which we 
are speaking, never engaged her notice, till after Que- 
bec and Louisburg had fallen. 



2S6 DISTRICT OF GASPE, 

The auspicious foundation of Halifax, giving umbrage 
to the French, they attempted to settle the Island of 
Tobago, although it belonged to Holland, by virtue of 
the treaty of Nimeguen. Failing in this instance, they 
endeavoured to fortify the neutral Islands, at the same 
time, craftily endeavouring to hood-wink the English, by 
raising a question concerning the limits of Nova Scotia. 
For a while, the Court of Versailles, by a variety of 
stratagems, succeeded in amusing the English resident 
at Paris, but at length, their proceedings became of so 
unequivocal a character, that the open rupture, so long 
ripening, could no longer, consistently with the national 
honour, be deferred. 

For a while, and Great Britain but half-drew her 
sword : — She allowed its keener part to slumber in the 
scabbard, nor ever tried its edge, till peaceful experi- 
ments were exhausted. For a while, and her cannon 
growled, but roared not : she confined her hostilities to 
reprisals at sea ; but when these active remonstrances 
failed, she drew her rod from the pickle, and with it 
chastised the Frenchman into awe. Of a war, thus un- 
avoidably commenced, and honourably concluded, we 
all know the results. They are as familiar, as they were 
splendid. Their importance justifies our pride of them ; 
and such a feeling, naturally inspires a vivid recollec- 
tion of their details. France lost all her possessions in 
America ; and Great Britain gained them : and thus was 
one nation impoverished by defeat, while the other was 
no less enriched by the acquisition, than she was enobled 
by the conquest. 



DISTRICT OF GASPE. 287 

After the reduction of Quebec, the French Ministry 
attempted to succour Montreal, by equipping a consi- 
derable number of Store ships, which they sent out in 
the spring of 1760, under a strong convoy. 

This fleet, understanding on their arrival in the gulf, 
that the British squadron had sailed up the Saint Law- 
rence, took shelter in La Bale des Chaleurs. They were 
not long here, however^ before they were disturbed ; for 
Captain Byron, senior officer of His Brittannic Majes- 
ty's ships at Louisburg, receiving intelligence of them 
from General Whitmore, he immediately proceeded with 
the Fame, Dorsetshire, Achilles, Scarborough, and Repulse, 
in quest of them. Having taken one French ship, La 
Catharina, in Gaspe Bay, and another in Saint Simoi, 
near Caraquet, he proceeded to Restigouche, where he 
found the remainder, consisting of the Marchault of 32 
guns, the Esperanceoi 30, the Bierifaisant, of 22, and the 
Marquis deMarloze of IS ; besides twenty two schooners, 
sloops, and small privateers. When the British fleet 
appeared, the French ships proceeded up the Resti- 
gouche, and there anchored, under cover of the batteries 
I have already mentioned. These posts being badly 
served, were silenced after a short resistance, when an 
engagement immediately ensued between the ships. 

The French, forming the best line the channel would 
admit, fought very gallantly, until Monsieur Bourdo, the 
Captain of the Marchault, was killed. This, and the me- 
lancholy explosion of one of the Sloops, loaded with 



t t 

2S3 DISTRICT OF GASPE . 

ammunition, put an end to the contest. Captain Byron 
then destroyed the town of Petit Rochelle ; also the 
two batteries ; and some small settlements on the south 
side of the River. All the enemy's ships were either 
sunk, or taken, in the immediate action, except a few 
of the Store vessels, which in striving to escape, were 
captured near Port Daniel, by Captain Wallis, whom 
Lord Colville had sent, with the Prince of Orange, Ro- 
chester, Spartan, and two other armed vessels, to per- 
form the duty, in the discharge of which, Captain By- 
ron had anticipated him. 

The Restigouche, therefore, however imperfectly 
known, is entitled to the pre-eminent distinction, of 
having presented the closing scene of that war, which 
quenched the glory, and destroyed the western domi- 
nion of France. After the destruction of this armament, 
all Canada, as well as the country bordering on the gulf, 
and along the Bay of Fundy, peaceably submitted to the 
British arms. In the immediate vicinity of where this 
action occurred, there are the most indubitable evi- 
dences of the fact ; but as I have noticed most of these 
particulars in my description of Restigouche, I shall on- 
ly mention here, a trifling circumstance I omitted there ; 
namely — Several trees, perforated by balls of different 
calibre^ aj;e still to be seen, on both sides of the river. 



FINIS. 



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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



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